E300 turbodiesel - diesel leaks on pump

[david-griffiths@st-brelad]

I'll try to explain as clearly as I can.....I noticed a diesel smell recently at the end of each journey. On running the engine and shining a torch in under the inlet manifold I noticed a drip every 3/4 seconds coming from the pump block. The six steel injector pipes coming out of the block are in a line and grouped as three pairs in terms of securing to the block. There are no leaks from the pipes themselves. I dried everything as best I could and then started the engine to see where the leaks (plural) are starting from and agreed, with my pal from the local garage, that it's from underneath where two of the pairs are secured to the block by single T30 star screws. These
T30 screws hold down what can only be described as heart shaped plates and the diesel appears to be oosing from underneath them.

Where I could do with some help is:

Are there sealing 'O' rings (or some other means of creating a seal) which are now clearly leaking?
Are they available from MB? The guy I spoke to at MB Southampton said the diagram on the microfiche was very poor quality and he couldn't tell whether there were any or not!
After removing the inlet manifold do I have to completely remove the injector pipes or can they be simply 'persuaded' to move to one side so I can get to the heart shape plate then remove the seals underneath?

For those who can't be bothered with New Year's Eve celebrations, I would be very grateful for your comments! Oh, and Happy New Year to all my readers!

 

[Parrot of Doom]

Those are pressure valve seals, yes you can order the replacement copper washers, you should also order the o-rings for them. Rinse the o-rings in fuel before you fit them. You'll also need a special splined tool which Mercedes won't want to sell you (part no 617 589 01 09 00)

Do not disturb the valves in the pump - I'm told this is critical. Just replace the o-ring and copper washer, don't touch 'owt else. There is also a spring in each valve, it might be worth ordering a couple of spares just in case one pings out and you lose it.

I believe the tightening torque is 35nm and first time only - but please get confirmation of this.

 

[david-griffiths@st-brelad]

Thanks for your help - any idea how much the splined tool is?

 

[Tontastic]

This sounds very similiar to the problem that I had after using veg oil for a week, leaks from the pump which led to me having to replace the pump. Car gone now ...

 

[Parrot of Doom]

Thanks for your help - any idea how much the splined tool is?

I can't remember, not much though, £10-£15 perhaps.

 

[david-griffiths@st-brelad]

Thanks Tontastic - that's exactly what I did in a moment of weakness! Only about 3/4l of the stuff but clearly enough to cause problems. Will still have a go at repair following Parrot of Doom's advice - will this be as nail biting as doing the glowplugs! I do hope not.....

 

[david-griffiths@st-brelad]

Parrot of Doom. Thanks for your help, not feeling too confident about this one! - do I need to use the splined tool within the pump block (underneath where the injectors come out) or are you referring to the three splined (T30) bolts holding down the heart shaped plates. If you could give me a bit more info I would be grateful. And if so, is it those T30 heads which need the initial torqueing down?

 

[Tontastic]

Thanks Tontastic - that's exactly what I did in a moment of weakness! Only about 3/4l of the stuff but clearly enough to cause problems. Will still have a go at repair following Parrot of Doom's advice - will this be as nail biting as doing the glowplugs! I do hope not.....

If its any consolation it was quite cheap (£118 delivered) to get a repacement pump, despite a quote of nearly 3K if i remember correctly for one from Mercedes. Did yours happen to be a high miler, mine had just over 200K on it when it happened. Think the cheapest quote from parts gateway was £300.

 

[Parrot of Doom]

Parrot of Doom. Thanks for your help, not feeling too confident about this one! - do I need to use the splined tool within the pump block (underneath where the injectors come out) or are you referring to the three splined (T30) bolts holding down the heart shaped plates. If you could give me a bit more info I would be grateful. And if so, is it those T30 heads which need the initial torqueing down?

No the splined tool is used to remove the metal lines from the pump, and the torquing figure I have refers to that. I've no idea what the little bolts should be at but its probably less critical than the valves. You can see the splines on each valve, here:

A few people have done this job here: http://www.mercedesshop.com/shopforum/index.php search for fuel leaks, delivery valves, injector pump, etc.

You'll also need new plastic clips for the injector lines, they only cost pence but you'll probably break one or two of them as you move the lines away from the pump.

 

[dieselman]

This sounds very similiar to the problem that I had after using veg oil for a week, leaks from the pump which led to me having to replace the pump. Car gone now ...

I can't see that on a Merc pump, it should have PTFE seals. What car?

 

[Tontastic]

I can't see that on a Merc pump, it should have PTFE seals. What car?

E300TD 1999 215K Miles

 

[television]

E300TD 1999 215K Miles

Dieselman is one of the best in the world on these cars and runs one himself.

 

[steve kane]

Just a quick update on the Special Delivery Valve Socket (Spline Tool)
A few people on the forum have borrowed mine and replaced the seals quite easily, however the Tool was lost/stolen in the post on its last trip and I had to tell people it was not available at the moment, well the good news is that a new socket is today en route direct from the Fatherland and will again be available to the forum members for a modest contribution to my wives beer fund!!
Steve.