E320CDI 210 Engine wont start

Paul P

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Hi Guys I have a problem can anyone help! Approx once a fortnight we can be out with the car when we return to the car the engine will turn over but not fire. I open the bonnet on the near side inner wing there is a black box I remove the lid with 4 philips screws pull out all the fuses one by one and put them back in then the car starts!!! I think it is a electrical problem has anyone any ideas Please ( I have replaced the diesel shut off valve thinking that might be at fault but to no avail) Paul P
 

rpe2

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I think you need to concentrate your search to either air in the fuel lines, or an injector leaking off.
 

Alex Crow

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or, equally, it could well be a crank sensor fault.

if when it fails to start you check the rev counter you may notice the needle not moving at all. this would strongly suggest a crank sensor fault.
 
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Paul P

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E 320 cdi Engine

I think you need to concentrate your search to either air in the fuel lines, or an injector leaking off.

Hi rpe2 I Have also replaced all the fuel lines with new ones .
Is there any way of testing if a injector is leaking off other than pulling them all out and replacing the injector seals. when the enjine is running it is as sweet as a nut thanks Paul P
 
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Paul P

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E320 CDI Engine

or, equally, it could well be a crank sensor fault.

if when it fails to start you check the rev counter you may notice the needle not moving at all. this would strongly suggest a crank sensor fault.

Ok thanks for the information next time it happens I will check the rev counter Paul P
 
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Paul P

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Alex Crow

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Hi rpe2 I Have also replaced all the fuel lines with new ones .
Is there any way of testing if a injector is leaking off other than pulling them all out and replacing the injector seals. when the enjine is running it is as sweet as a nut thanks Paul P

injector leak off test is easily done by disconnecting the pipe that runs acros the tops of the injectors and watching how much fuel exits under cranking. you may find one spews fuel out while the others mearly ooze :D, technical term that. if so, this can overcome the high pressure pumps ability to build rail pressure to the 120 bar it needs to see before it fires the injectors.

but i still believe your crank sensor is still the most likely culprit from your symptoms.
 
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Paul P

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Hi All, This afternoon We went to a firm called CES UK Shrewsbury (www.cesuk.com) They had a crank sender unit cost £45.03 Made in Germany called Febi not too bad hay! they also sell to the trade,

I will fit it on tomorrow hope that will do the trick, Thank you guys for all your help up to date. Paul P
 
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Paul P

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Hi Guys it is me again.I got the crank sender unit yesterday, Today I tried to get the old one off I got the nut off okay but the sender unit is seizes solid. I have sprayed it with WD40 but it will not move, has anybody got any ideas ? Paul P
 

Alex Crow

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not all that unusual i'm afraid paul.

your best bet is loads of patience, allied with blasts of penetrating oil. even better would be a freezing spray such as rost off ice, made by wurth. a spanner can be fitted to the sensor to aid rotation, the idea being to unseize it by rotation untill it is fairly free.

if you loose patience or it is hopelessly seized you may shear it off. this would then require the remains to be drilled out, this would not be a job for the faint hearted! the biggest danger of drilling is damaging the exciting tabs on the ring gear that the sensor is energised by. drilling is not possible down the center of the sensor due to it's magnetic core. best overall not to run out of patience! if you do not have a stubby spanner that fits you could use small locking pliers or adjustables.

good luck.
 
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Paul P

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E320 CDI 210 Engine Wont Start

Hi Alexander thanks for all your help up to date, we have a problem ( the engine is a 320 CDI 210 model 2000) the convertor housing has been machined out so that the sensor fits into a slot so the most we could turn it was approx 1/4". After 3 days soaking it with WD40 and 2 days with Roost off Ice it was only springing on the bakelite/ plastic approx 1/4", we tried to lift it with a spanner and leavering it up with a screw driver , unfortunatly we sheared the top off the sensor, so we marked a drill bit with some insulation tape using the new sensor as a guide for the depth allowing to stop approx 1/4" from the bottom of the sensor so it would not go through and damage the excisting tabs on the ring gear, up to now we have drilled around the top of the bakelite/plastic to approx 1/4" depth leaving the magnetic core sticking out about a 1/4" and two holes down to a 1/4" down to the bottom we have tried to turn it with long nose pliers but it is still siezed solid is there any way that you know of that perhaps we could turn the crank so that it would miss the tabs and knock it through into the housing and fish it afterwards? we have noticed that the new sensor has been fluted ( the old one looks as if it is perfectly round) any ideas we have left it soaking with rost off ice over night Regards Paul
 
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Alex Crow

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oh dear, sorry to hear it is not going well.

as you are able to drill i would advise drilling to the very tip of your sensor with the old one as a pattern as you have. if you remove enough plastic and wire you will be able to pull the core out. then remove the rest with a hooked piece of thick wire protruding through the center. if you are sensitive with the drill you should be able to tell when you hit steel instead of plastic!

failling that there is a gap in the 'teeth' on the drive plate which i believe is near tdc, if you remove the blanking plug in the rear of the sump and rotate the crank you will find it and be able to work out it's position in relation to the markings on the crank pulley. then you could line it up with the sensor. whether it would allow you to knock the sensor through i do not know, but i suspect it would work if enough of the sensor material had been removed.

over to you, and more good luck!
 
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Paul P

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Hi Alexander we put the new crank sensor in to day touch wood hope that was the problem. When we fitted the new crank sensor we put some copper grease around it so that if it went wrong again it would be easier to change, the old one was virtually welded to the cast housing, this job is not for the faint hearted we took the heat exchanger off to make more room so that we could get at the sensor with the use of a flexable attatchemnt that fits to a drill .Thanks for all your help and advice Paul P
 

Alex Crow

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phew, thank heavens for that. so all ok so far? or not fully back together yet?
 

harpersimon

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Makes mine look like a walk in the park! just put a large screwdriver in the top and wiggled it a bit!
 
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Paul P

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Alexander Did you have to drill yours out ? yes running ok and all back together, Ho! we also bought new O rings and a gasket for the heat exchanger from Mercedes,

harpersimon wish this one was as easy! the car has been in the drive for a week, what car is yours that came out so easy?
 
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It is odd that some are tight and are pigs to get out while others just slide out,,Pleased it is all working OK

There has been a re call on this part on many new cars .
 


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