E350Cdi 2012 - Wont Start After Oil Seal Work

[MrGundam]

Hi Everyone,

As the title really. Put everything back together after a week working (and waiting for parts) to replace the leaking oil seals. Went to try and start it to check for leaks etc but it will only crank about 3 cycles and then stops.

Video below shows issue:

Had a check with Xentry and no error codes at all related to this.

Only odd thing I noticed was Xentry showing 2 different voltages. One at the top and one in data readings which is odd. I had the car on charge with a Ctek in AGM mode for the past 5 days so assumed no issues. I checked both batteries (large one in engine bay and small in boot) and both show 12v with multi meter so possibly a glitch?

My only other though was due to very low fuel pressure considering so much of the fuel system was removed for the job, however again no errors so just a wild guess.

It is dark here now so thought I would see if anyone has any suggestions I can try tomorrow. If not I will just go through all the sensors again and checked plugged in.

Any help appreciated.

 

[mersum1es]

check your started wires all all tight, same to gorunding wires. and battery of course I think circuit 61 should be active when starting. What EIS values says when trying to crank? Fuel pressure is not monitored during start sequence, see live data for rail pressure. I doubt it is culprit, because tip start should keep cranking longer than that. Engine fan is not blasting?

 

[MrGundam]

check your started wires all all tight, same to gorunding wires. and battery of course I think circuit 61 should be active when starting. What EIS values says when trying to crank? Fuel pressure is not monitored during start sequence, see live data for rail pressure. I doubt it is culprit, because tip start should keep cranking longer than that. Engine fan is not blasting?

Thanks for the reply.

- Engine fan is not on at all throughout
- EIS I have not checked but will take a look tomorrow whilst cranking and report back
- Will also check ground wires, but I know the 2 I removed during the strip down I ensured were cleaned and tight

Odd how the voltages are showing differently in Xentry as well as no error codes.

 

[supernoodle]

As it was running before it has to be something that was disturbed.

I expect the voltage at the top of the screen is as measured at the diag port by the c5/c6 or whatever VCI tool you have. The other will be PID (live data) response for the module you are working with. So here ECU is reporting it is seeing 5.94v.
I expect all/most modules should report the battery voltage they see.
A lot of modules would go into a brown out reset (safe shutdown) at around 6v so could be a dodgy PID to go with your dodgy EGR and regen....
Check at the ECU with a multimeter to confirm.

 

[MrGundam]

ALL SORTED NOW

Thanks guys. I was going over the connectors and found I hadn't fully engaged the OS fuel rail. Clipped it home fully and she fired up on 2nd try

No leaks as of yet (touch wood), but will do full test drive tomorrow.

Still perplexing about Xentry reporting low voltage when reading live alternator data.

 

[MrGundam]

As it was running before it has to be something that was disturbed.

I expect the voltage at the top of the screen is as measured at the diag port by the c5/c6 or whatever VCI tool you have. The other will be PID (live data) response for the module you are working with. So here ECU is reporting it is seeing 5.94v.
I expect all/most modules should report the battery voltage they see.
A lot of modules would go into a brown out reset (safe shutdown) at around 6v so could be a dodgy PID to go with your dodgy EGR and regen....
Check at the ECU with a multimeter to confirm.

That is interesting. What could cause a 'dodgy PID' and how best to trace this issue? Is it a case of finding the power pin on the ECU and seeing what voltage it is receiving?

Regarding the EGR, I am starting to think it has been coded out long in the past. When I stripped the engine for the oil cooler seals (they were the old style orange ones even on my 2012 265bhp model), I noticed how clean the inlets were given it's done 120,000 miles:

I tried a second hand EGR as well as cheap Chinese EGR and they all behaved the same.

DPF I used Wynns Off Car DPF cleaner and gave it a good soak and flush so will be interesting to see what that reads after some miles.

Keen to look into the PID voltage data though. Could it be a faulty battery sensor that is located by the starter battery negative terminal?

 

[mioba]

Some good work there OP. Well done.
Just watching the video and the crank is perfect so not a battery issue.
If its all running fine - don't open a can of worms looking for issues that don't exist.

 

[supernoodle]

Parameter IDdentifiers (PIDs) and Data IDentifiers(DIDs) are the mechanism a diag tool uses to request data from a module. A PID is actually what an OBDii tool uses, a DID is what is a tool like Xentry, iCarsoft uses. So I should have said dodgy DID.
Each piece of data the tool can request will have a unique ID. Say battery voltage has ID 786 would send a request to ECU read DID 786. ECU has to copy the actual voltage into this DID and send it to the diag tool. So during this process the data is manipulated/converted/scaled several times. It's quite possible somewhere along the line there is an error. I would suggest there is a scaling error and you are actually showing half of the battery voltage. 5.94 x2 =11.88

If the real voltage at the ECU was low, you'd have lots of other issues.

As PIDs and DIDs are handled separately you can try using the OBD mode on the iCarsoft to read battery voltage from the ECU. There's a chance that works.