Electric windows W202

Simon Wigley

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My 1993 C Class has all of a sudden had both it's windows on the passenger side stop working: seems too much of a coincidence to be both motors at the same time.......

Is there a common fuse/relay for these: I can't seem to locate one??

Any ideas?

Thanks

Simon
 

television

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Your Mercedes
2002 SL500, 216 CL500, all fully loaded
you have 3 fuse boxes, biggest one is in the rear, if you are stuck PM me with VIN

Malcolm
 
OP
S

Simon Wigley

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  • Thread Starter
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Malcolm,

Thanks for your reply - are you saying that there are further fusboxes located behind the front one: I know there is a box of relays, but didn't appreciate there were further fuses...........?

Thanks

S
 

C220GJS

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Shotts, Scotland.
Your Mercedes
1995 W202 C220 Elegance
Simon,
Apart from the main fuse box under the bonnet ,there is another fuse box behind the battery under the boot floor. Not sure what fuses are there but it will list them under the fuse box cover. For information ,the green relay next to this fuse box is for the fuel pump.
Geo.
 

Benzy

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I have this same prob with my C220 96. Both passenger windows stopped operating at the same time. Like this for 1+ yrs now. I accepted that perhaps motors blown. Have chked fuses in the boot, but all seems ok back there, any ideas for diy i can chk myself? Dismantle door panels?
 

Ron Palfrey

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Your Mercedes
C280 Elegance 1994
Both n/s electric windows stopped working on my C280. Through lack of use I think, and not both at the same time. Fixed them fairly easily.
Front door: remove panel (2 screws - 1 near door catch, 1 behind plastic trim around inner door handle which just levers out - carefully!). Unpop poppers using broad screwdriver (use cardboard to protect paint). Unhook door handle rod by spreading clip gripper and pushing rod end down. Pull polythene sheet away carefully so you can stick it back when you've done. 3 torx screws hold electric motor in & these are easily accessible through holes. You might like to undo the electrical connector first and check for power when you operate the switch (use a multimeter). If there is power. Undo the torx screws, reach up with hand and jiggle the motor to take it out. Note position of drive cog as it will need to be in exactly the same position when you refit it. Try the window switch again to see if motor operates free of operating mechanism - sometimes a sharp tap with a plastic screwdriver handle will free it. If you want to lubricate it, or if it still doesn't operate then unplug the connector (squeeze each side to release), and remove the motor completely. You can then dismantle the motor by undoing the 4 torx screws. Do this and withdraw the cylinder (which contains the stator magnets) from armature shaft. Check the brushes (mine had plenty of life left). Lubricate the bearing surfaces of the armature shaft with grease and reassemble. Care because the spindle can come out of engagement with the drive cog but this is no problem, simply lubricate the drive worm too and push it back turning it to re-engage. Getting the armature between the brushes is fiddly because you have to hold the brushes back (I used tiny screwdrivers for this) and you could really do with 3 hands. Replace the stator cylinder, do up the 4 torx screws then you can pop the motor back in the door. Before you do that though reconnect the wiring to it and try the switch again hopefully the motor now works as you have freed it off and lubricated the bearing surfaces. If it doesn't, either you have reassembled wrong (try again, make sure the brushes contact the armature properly) or you need a new motor that does work. Try eBay? When you have it working make sure the cog is in the same position as it was when you took it out ( - you did make a note didn't you ? !!!) and refit it. Do up the 3 torx screws, reconnect the wiring connector and hey presto try the switch - hopefully your window now goes up and down.
Rear door: You will need to disconnect the door operated switch when removing the panel. No need to remove the motor from the door as the stator cylinder can be removed with it in situ and you can remove the armature shaft to lubricate it just like the front motor.
Takes about an hour to dismantle and lubricate each one from start to finish - or it did me anyway, good luck!
 


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