ENGINE/ATF OIL CHANGING

[Oldspanners]

Well and good if I could have got the new seals, but it's no big deal. The pilot bushing is not so expensive anyway. I would be happier to completely drain the box, TC and Rad, for sure. Only doubts I have on that score is that I have never drained an automatic gearbox before...but, lots of help here on the forum on that job, se we will see how it goes.
I even have the part Nr for the washer 007603-010100. Is this washer the compressed type? Or just a plain flat copper washer?Surprisingly, not too many for sale on the internet ( that I could find anyhow) but will get one from the local Mercedes dealership. So you use the Febi-Bilstein oil etc.? or the Fuchs?.
Thanks for your help,
Regards Jim2.

I used a flat copper washer from a box I bought a long while ago and shows no sign of leakage after two years. I used the Febi oil because it was available but would have no problem using Fuchs and mixing them.
A bit of reflection is good if you're not familiar with things but I found mechanically Mercedes parts are robust and making a repair with the right parts and advice is satisfying and great value when compared with professional prices, even if having to buy the odd special tool.
Speaking of which you will need a dip stick, carefully measure all that comes out and don't overfill and check the level and add a little at a time at the right temperature until at the correct level. It all sounds more daunting than it actually is.

 

[Jim2]

Thank you all for your suggestions re 722.6 service kit, Some I was too late for ( offer finished) and some I received after I had ordered, so for a finish I went with the following:
Febi Bilstein 30018 Automatic Transmission Fluid @ £31.50 for 5 Ltrs
Febi Bilstein 10098 Transmission Oil Filter Set ( Gasket+Filter) @ £14.15
Febi Bilstein F36332 Gearbox Adapter Plug ( Pilot Bushing) @ £8.99
( except I ordered 2 x 5 Ltrs, will allow me to do a complete oil change)
The locking tab and drain stud washer I can source locally.
This totalled out at £86.49, so within the price range you have recommended.
Now as soon as the Beast from the East departs, and normal transportation resumes, and the parts arrive, I can get started....
Thanks again, and Regards, Jim2

 

[Jim2]

I used a flat copper washer from a box I bought a long while ago and shows no sign of leakage after two years. I used the Febi oil because it was available but would have no problem using Fuchs and mixing them.
A bit of reflection is good if you're not familiar with things but I found mechanically Mercedes parts are robust and making a repair with the right parts and advice is satisfying and great value when compared with professional prices, even if having to buy the odd special tool.
Speaking of which you will need a dip stick, carefully measure all that comes out and don't overfill and check the level and add a little at a time at the right temperature until at the correct level. It all sounds more daunting than it actually is.

I have the dipstick on order Oldspanners, and it should arrive here early next week, with the oil and filter etc. a bit later ( depends on the Beast from the East ) So it's only the standard flat copper washer that you normally find on drain studs? And not the " Sandwich " type? That's good. I enjoy doing my own servicing, but I am well aware of my limitations, and prefer to think twice before moving once...would not be the first time I had cause to regret jumping into something headfirst.... and this will be my 1st transmission job on a Mercedes. No doubt, if all goes well... I will find myself on the forum telling newbies how it's done.. LOL
But for now, I move slowly on the job.
Thanks again for your help !!!
Regards, Jim2

 

[Bertie Wooster]

Mb genuine kit with bolts and red tip is 86 on ebay. 5 litres of oil too.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/263230246053

Have just bought that precise kit, and picked it up in person from Mercedes Perth. Great service and they even offered to discount the extra few litres of ATF needed for a torque converter drain (not that I intend to do it).
Worth mentioning that they're part of Arnold Clark, so may well deliver to your nearest branch for free. Sometimes more useful than wasting time waiting in for a courier.

Best,
Bertie

 

[Jim2]

Have just bought that precise kit, and picked it up in person from Mercedes Perth. Great service and they even offered to discount the extra few litres of ATF needed for a torque converter drain (not that I intend to do it).
Worth mentioning that they're part of Arnold Clark, so may well deliver to your nearest branch for free. Sometimes more useful than wasting time waiting in for a courier.

Best,
Bertie

Thanks Bertie, that's good to know for next time. So you are doing a transmission oil change too? But not the TC... is it long since the last change?
Regards, Jim2

 

[Jim2]

I use a a Sealey 6 litre one and won't go back to draining it from under the car.
It won't drain the TC. The only way to flush/drain the TC (if it hasn't a drain plug) is to pump the oil out using the engine while feeding fresh oil in..............(via the trans cooler).............. Not recommended if you don't have the kit.
Changing oil is definitely DiY. If you have half a clue with spanners the autobox filter change is also DIY.

Hi again Lost Kiwi,
As in the highlighted passage above, how to identify which pipe is going OUT
to the cooling rad, and which pipe is returning the cooled oil to the Transmission? I read in another one of your posts that the correct pipe to drain the TC from is the "OUT" pipe,,just curious, what is the advantage of using this pipe, rather than the rad return one? BTW, my Merc is a 2010 w212, with the 5 sp transmission, 722.6 ( without TC drain plug.....unfortunately !!! )
Thanks, Jim2

 

[LostKiwi]

It doesn't much matter. Use whichever is easiest for you.

 

[umblecumbuz]

One small caveat as you're changing the pilot bushing.

The long captive setscrew in the bushing goes home into a small brass threaded fitting that is moulded into the plastic housing of the electroplate, sited above the valve body (that you'll see dripping steadily when you drop the sump).

This brass fitting has been known to turn with the setscrew if too much pressure is applied. It is tempting to let the screw pull the bushing into place as you tighten it - but don't do that! Coax the bushing in with firm finger pressure as you tighten the setscrew (7mm from memory), and just gently nip it tight on the last turn. The two O rings do the sealing. My sticky up top with photos shows that I discovered this the hard way.

 

[Jim2]

So finally, I have started the transmission oil change today after many little delays..........I got the car up on stands and it's at a comfortable working level, front and back. I removed all the underneath trays, 3 of them, as I wanted to be able to trace the oil cooler pipes ( otherwise, only need to remove the two rear ones)
Following the very good advice I got here on the forum, I managed to avoid a lot of the 1st time mishaps that can occur. except, just as I was congratulating my self on a "Dry" drain......I pulled down the filter...and got oil all the way down inside my sleeve as far as my elbows.That will teach me not to congratulate myself too soon..
The drained qty was 4 Litres, which seems to fit in well with other posts here, and that is exactly the amount I replaced in the transmission via the dipstick tube. The oil itself was pretty black, ( See pics) and the magnet had some silver coloured metal particles on it, but surprisingly little. Neither did the oil feel "Gritty" or had the dreaded burnt smell. So I am getting cautiously more optimistic that it has been changed at some stage in it's life.
And that's where I am at this moment. I have not started the engine yet, as I still have to drain the TC via the cooler pipe, ( but first I have to identify the correct one, the return pipe) Neither have I yet replaced the pilot bushing, it's completely dry on the outside ( almost dusty ) but I guess while I am at it, best to replace it, and then I can forget about it.
I have uploaded some pics, so feel free to look and advise /comment I am especially interested in the pic which shows the two cooler pipes. I'm guessing here, but the pipe on the passenger side of the transmission is the "OUT" Pipe,( the easy one ) and the one on the Drivers side is the return pipe. This one is the more awkward one to get at and put a drain pipe on. If this one is the return, then I have to see if I can make up a modified banjo connection to drain it. Other wise, will have to undo all the retaining clamps and move it enough to fit it into some kind of makeshift drain pipe. One of the pics shows a plastic grommet on the TC housing, but I guess that there is not any drain plug inside? Any additional advice moving on to the next phase ( TC Drain and running the engine to circulate the new oil?
Thanks again for your help
Best Regards, Jim2

 

[Jim2]

One small caveat as you're changing the pilot bushing.

The long captive setscrew in the bushing goes home into a small brass threaded fitting that is moulded into the plastic housing of the electroplate, sited above the valve body (that you'll see dripping steadily when you drop the sump).

This brass fitting has been known to turn with the setscrew if too much pressure is applied. It is tempting to let the screw pull the bushing into place as you tighten it - but don't do that! Coax the bushing in with firm finger pressure as you tighten the setscrew (7mm from memory), and just gently nip it tight on the last turn. The two O rings do the sealing. My sticky up top with photos shows that I discovered this the hard way.

Might be a small caveat Umblecumbuz, LOL. But it's a might important one !!! And to use the setscrew to pull in the bushing would be just a natural thing to do, especially if the new bushing and seals are a tight fit !!!
I am working on it at this very moment, just on a tea break....to drain the TC, I'm still not sure which of the two cooler pipes is the return one.... my guess would be the high one on the drivers side, facing forward. I have uploaded a pic, what would you think?
Thanks again, Regards, Jim2

 

[umblecumbuz]

I'm danged if I remember which is which when I last did mine. I recall undoing the banjo union and just letting it drain into a pan, while running the engine for about a couple of minutes until it began to run clean. Most of the fluid obviously came from the cooler radiator. I then topped up and did this a second time. I was tempted to bore out a spare banjo union and make up a hose for the job, but in the end it wasn't that much of a problem just to undo the banjo and catch the fluid.

Here's a photo of the old and new pilot bushing. The small brass threaded insert, shown on the top of the right one, was once moulded into the plastic of the conductor plate - not very firmly - and it just turned as I tried to undo the setscrew. Fortunately I was also replacing the conductor plate at the time. I've since done two more MB gearboxes without any such problems, so I guess I just hit a bad one.



The blue background is a lint free cloth - lint cloths don't agree with an auto transmission!

 

[Jim2]

I'm danged if I remember which is which when I last did mine. I recall undoing the banjo union and just letting it drain into a pan, while running the engine for about a couple of minutes until it began to run clean. Most of the fluid obviously came from the cooler radiator. I then topped up and did this a second time. I was tempted to bore out a spare banjo union and make up a hose for the job, but in the end it wasn't that much of a problem just to undo the banjo and catch the fluid.

Here's a photo of the old and new pilot bushing. The small brass threaded insert, shown on the top of the right one, was once moulded into the plastic of the conductor plate - not very firmly - and it just turned as I tried to undo the setscrew. Fortunately I was also replacing the conductor plate at the time. I've since done two more MB gearboxes without any such problems, so I guess I just hit a bad one.



The blue background is a lint free cloth - lint cloths don't agree with an auto transmission!

That's one sick looking bushing....and exactly the kind of headache I could live happily without.....and not sure that my mechanical skills would be up replacing the conductor plate, at least up to now, I have never had to do one, matter of fact my mechanical skills on Mercedes are generally low, hence all the questions I have on this forum. I worked mainly on VW, Audi, Ford and in the last few years on the management side of things.....so now having to go back to school a lot. I was carefull to use only lint free cloth, and after wards, I used compressed air to ensure that the pan was clinically clean
cloth I took a chance on the Drivers side banjo connection being the return pipe, and I was right. If I have to do this job again, first I will go to a scrappie and get a complete return pipe, cut it to a suitable length, and attach some flexible plastic tubing. Remove the return pipe at the banjo connection, replace it with drain pipe, and drain away. That will make it a very simple job indeed. Even simpler if it can be drained from the "OUT" pipe ( the Banjo on that side is very accessible) But I don't know how that would work....would the all the oil that is in the radiator, simply drain into the transmission sump? And there after, same procedure, drain/refill until the oil is completely red? or would it be problematic, given that the radiator would be filled with air for awhile? Is it possible that the system could get air locked? The car is presently jacked up on blocks and axle stands, so all I could do was run the engine after draining / topping up and wait until it reached 40c. The dipstick is reading low, but I don't want to add any more until I can give it a proper drive. Mainly now, I am checking for leaks, and if that is Ok, tomorrow all the under panels will be put back, and the car can be put back on the ground, so that is when the real test will be. After running the engine to pump out the old oil, I moved the gear selector through all the functions, delaying 10 secs in each position, back and forward, including manual input, so I hope that everything will be OK. I ran the iCarsoft scan on it afterwards, and it does not show any fault's. So here's hoping everything will be OK.
Thanks again Umblecumbuz, your help is much appreciated,
Jim2.

 

[umblecumbuz]

One small suggestion.

Give the car a good run before refitting all the undertrays.
Would be a real pain if you later found you needed to take them off just to check for a weep somewhere.

 

[Jim2]

One small suggestion.

Give the car a good run before refitting all the undertrays.
Would be a real pain if you later found you needed to take them off just to check for a weep somewhere.

Would not be the first time that has happened, Umblecumbuz. LOL I know the feeling !!! I have already checked it twice. First time was after tightening the banjo connection, and there was literally one or two drops of oil visible. Then again after running the engine for about half an hour, and it was completely dry. Now the only reason the car is still jacked up on the blocks is (1) will check again for any leaks in the morning (2) while I have it up like this, I am fitting it with a towbar, so it's two jobs rolled into one. Not that I do much towing ( small single axle trailer ) but where I live, a trailer is handy.
So by lunchtime tomorrow, I expect to have it ready for a test drive, and all going well, then back up on the blocks final check for leaks then if all is Ok, re fit the under trays.
Thanks Umblecumbuz, most helpful.
Regards, Jim2

 

[V6Matty]

As you're up on blocks you could start the engine and cycle through the selector, that should still move everything around even without actually turning the wheels, so park, reverse, neutral, drive and back again a few times

 

[Jim2]

As you're up on blocks you could start the engine and cycle through the selector, that should still move everything around even without actually turning the wheels, so park, reverse, neutral, drive and back again a few times

I have done that Matty, and it looked and sounded OK ( allowing for the fact that it was wheel-free, so the computer thought it had lost traction, and was a bit confused LOL ) Dipped it at 40c, and its reading low plusits not sitting 100% level at the moment. Its slightly sloped towards the rear, and maybe this is affecting the dip reading too.
Thanks for your help,
Regards, Jim2

 

[Oldspanners]

I have done that Matty, and it looked and sounded OK ( allowing for the fact that it was wheel-free, so the computer thought it had lost traction, and was a bit confused LOL ) Dipped it at 40c, and its reading low plusits not sitting 100% level at the moment. Its slightly sloped towards the rear, and maybe this is affecting the dip reading too.
Thanks for your help,
Regards, Jim2

Well done Jim. Check the oil a few times after it has reached running temp 80C after a few drives as I had to top up a little.
Better a little at a time.

 

[V6Matty]

As above, sounds like your probably about right so a run to get it hit and dip again and you should fine fine.

 

[Jim2]

As above, sounds like your probably about right so a run to get it hit and dip again and you should fine fine.

I have done this Matty, as you and Umblecumbuz recommended, and finally have the oil level reading between min-max in the 80c range, so am happy with that...It sure is sensitive to the top up amounts...for a finish, I was using 250 ml amounts, but now all is well, and its driving great. Still have not replaced the under shield's though, I am taking it on a long journey tomorrow, will have it parked up overnight, with a sheet spread out on the ground to do a final check for leaks, then if all is well, I'll return home next day and finish the job by replacing the trays. For the future reference, I am trying to source "Cooling pipe banjo adapter". I have come across mention's of it on the net...but can't seem to find a supplier, if anyone can help? Also if anyone knows the dimension's of the banjo bolt? It takes a 19mm spanner for the bolt head, and I think that the threaded section is 14mm?
On a different subject, I have fitted tow bar and am in the process of wiring it up, and I ask this purely on spec, does anyone know which connection I could use on the fuse box which is situated behind the trim on the Drivers side in the boot?
Thanks again for all your help,
Jim2

 

[Wighty]

Well done Jim , excellent result . I remember when I was topping up after the ATF change I was doing 100ml amounts .
You could try a scrap yard/used parts for the banjo fitting .