engine oil cooler

[oigle]

Yes on the jeep the trams is cooled through a traditional exchanger in the bottom of the radiator. I was tempted to just do a bypass loop with the cooler mod, would have been easier, but every listing or detail I read about it called it a cooler so thought I would err on the safe side. I tow in our heat as well so thought that was a better although harder option.
The jeep also has a steering cooler as the coolant fan is hydraulically driven. One of the jeep guys is about to play with a trans cooler. It's a B & M one with fan but he intends to block off the radiator exchanger and I don't agree with that even if the trans one has the fan. It's still only about 300square which I think is still not big enough to work alone fully.

I'm not opposed to the MB fluid for a change at say 5litres x $25 but I have a small trans issue and wanted to flush most of the old stuff out so 15 liters x $25 hurts a bit. I'm having an issue with the trans shutting down and dropping into netural with engine shut down as well. Not often and random. Previous owner ran a specced Penrite oil with no issues and I recently changed to the Nulon but want a true approved MB oil to cross it off as a cause.

I think it is definitely best to incorporate the old heat exchanger in the rad with the extra cooler. Brings oil temp to proper level. Be sure to plumb it with the oil going through the new rad cooler first and then back through the bottom of the rad. That makes the cooler more effective and also makes sure the oil is then brought back to proper temp if it is overcooled by the extra rad in winter.

 

[stumo]

The trans cooler i want to use is a second power steering one and it fits perfectly there on the passenger side where the oil cooler pipes come past just not sure now whether there is enough room behind the grill.

I think the ML is quite a bit different to the Jeep then.

Our Power Steering cooler is in the radiator. And like Oigle says, we have a secondary mini coolant rad sitting right out the front, that pipes low temp coolant back to our engine mounted exchanger.

The low temp rad is item 28 on that pic. And item 25 is the 2 pipes going to and from the engine heat exchanger.

The engine heat exchanger is in the same place as yours, but I'm not sure if its even the same. Ours looks cast, and it has at least those two small coolant lines connected to it. And like Oigle also said, our trans pipes seem to go straight to it too. We have no trans cooler in the radiator or separate.

Maybe you could look into putting an ML heat exchanger and small rad on your Jeep? I've certainly never seen one give any trouble, which reminds me I should change my 5yo+ coolant:Oops:.

EDIT: Actually, the 316 sprinter with the OM612 and 722.6 has the engine exchanger there too, but it has a rad mounter trans cooler. Its probably the same as your Jeep setup. They are pretty much bullet proof given how many vehicle-miles sprinters have clocked up all over the world. Mines sitting quite happily at 370k. That could be a better option for your jeep.

 

[ianstaley]

Has anyone considered that new stuff on the market waterless coolant. Go here (http://www.evanscoolants.co.uk/) I have nowt to gain from this as I have seen it on the Discovery channel the program with Ed China in it. Wheeler Dealers, that's the one take a look very interesting stuff. As it isn't water based it doesn't corrode delicate parts and the boil temp is very high 180 degrees and down to -40 Tell you what go there and check out the vids. At about £90 for a change it is expensive but it will NEVER need changing and boiling over is never going to happen. Come the spring I am going down this road.

Ian

 

[stumo]

If it doesn't boil, and presumably you haven't been looking at the temp guage either, what warning signs are you going to get that you are ruining your expensive engine?

Call me old fashioned, but I think for people like my wife, I'd much rather have the plumes of steam to let her know somethings wrong and stop immediately.

 

[oigle]

If it doesn't boil, and presumably you haven't been looking at the temp guage either, what warning signs are you going to get that you are ruining your expensive engine?

Call me old fashioned, but I think for people like my wife, I'd much rather have the plumes of steam to let her know somethings wrong and stop immediately.

Bit like the aircooled VW Beetle. Never knew it was getting too hot until it seized a piston.

 

[fester]

Stumo ours must be the same as the sprinter then. It's definately a MB part and not Jeep specific as it carries an MB part number. I don't quite understand how it works in the ML then if there are 2 water pipes unless they both feed the same direction as the other water feed is out of the timing case itself. Seems odd MB would cast the timing case as a different part just for the ML. Our power steering probably has to be air cooled due to the extra strain of driving the cooling fan.

It look like with hose 17 & 23 that there are 2 variations one with and one without the extra cooler.

 

[stumo]

In the ML my guess is the timing case is the same. The coolant circuit will be different inside the exchanger only. So hot coolant enters the exchanger only to be routed out one of the lines to the mini rad, then back to the exchanger.

Do you have the part number, I can find out what it is on the sprinter. But I guess even then its early death could be due to the other metals used in the jeep cooling system.

 

[HERBIEMERCMAN]

three things here for me. 1. i have owned a toyota mk4 supra for 16 yrs and the cooling system has never been changed, the coolant is red like blackcurrant juice and is called "forlife", it costs £8 / lit, so £56 to fill my cooling system, 2 yrs back we had minus 17deg and i checked the coolant, no effect at all after 16 yrs, so why pay £95. ?

2. my merc has 50/50 blucol, i add a liter every 3 yrs or so, covered 214,000 miles from new and as with my supra, no issues.

3. the most important thing as some has already said is knowing when your cooling system has failed before you cook your engine, i have a boat with twin 590 e diesels 200 hp each and i cooked one of them some years back,new liners, head gasket, what a disaster. S0 fitted 90 deg, by-metal "clixon" disks to the cylinder heads and wired them on a self proving falling relay circuit to a loud siren, this has prevented overheating no less than 5 times in the past ten years since i designed the system. on a boat you rarely look at the temp guages and the same in cars, you only know you have a problem when the power drops off, and it is too late, especially for diesel engines with the higher combustion pressures involved. to the best of my knowledge there are no similar warning systems out there and i did consider patenting the idea, it is cheap, simple and reliable and has saved me much grief. if anyone wants more details i can post it. herbiemercman.

 

[television]

Its nice in Sweden as all the service stations keep the test strips, so easy