Engine Warning Light

steveq

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Hi,

The orange engine warning light is showing on the dash on my 2011 W204 C220 CDI.
I attached the Carsoft i980 OBDII reader and it shows two faults:- P054615 and P208027. For both it says 'Fault not in database'.

When I look further into the Exhaust Gas Recirculation section I also see a fault 'Y85 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Cooler Bypass Switchover Valve Fault 53336/6058'.

When I clear the faults on the iCarsoft reader the P054615 and P208027 go away and the engine warning light is off but the 'Y85.... ' error remains. The two P... faults reappear and the engine warning light comes back on the next time we are out in the car.

Should I focus on the P054615 & P208027 errors which I understand are in in the area of Exhaust Gas Temperature sensor or on the 'Y85 Exhaust Gas Recirculation ...' error ?

Thanks,
Steve
 
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steveq

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I decided to dig a bit deeper into the P054615 & P208027 fault codes which relate to the Exhaust Gas Temperature.
Investigation seemed to point towards the exhaust gas temperature sensor which is upstream of the turbo -- that could only be on the exhaust manifold.
To get to the exhaust manifold the air filter housing has to be removed as it is directly over the manifold & turbo, etc.
On the OM651 engine the air filter housing has an engine management box bolted to the top with 2 major cables connected to it. There are 2 other cables connected together sitting on top of the box too.
I removed the engine cover and then the big air intake hosing from the front of the car to the air filter intake.
I loosened the jubilee clip from pipe connecting the air filter housing to the turbo and pulled it off the air filter box and disconnected the sensor cable from it too.
I disconnected the cables from the engine management box.
By pulling the air filter box upwards and towards the front of the car it can be removed.
That exposed the manifold.

I could see one sensor bolted to the manifold -- it is a thin metal pipe (thinner than a biro) about 3 inches long with a right angle bend in it and a cable attached.
I could undo the nut but as I loosened it I broke the thin pipe off the end (not too bad as I think it was faulty anyway). I removed the part that fits into the manifold -- it was a bit sooty but looked OK.

Removing the cable was the nightmare part --- it feeds around to the front of the engine under other cables. It is impossible to see or even get fingers into it.
I found where it connected to by moving the sensor end of the cable and seeing what moved. I disconnected the cable with much difficulty -- triple jointed extremely thin fingers are required (which I don't have) !!?
I still couldn't remove the cable as the connector was too big to fit through the gaps.
I eventually got it out by pulling the broken end of the sensor (which was narrow) forwards around the front of the engine.

I looked online for the sensor and they were all in the region of €100 including postage and would have the delay of delivery.
I went to my local Merc dealer who could get it same day for around €140 including VAT so I ordered it from them.
 
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steveq

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Hi Steve,

Thanks for the information.
Excuse my ignorance but where would I find more information on the TIPs?

Thanks,
Steve
 

Steve@Avantgarde

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You can't unless you have access to TIP's via MB. It costs £150 a year or so, as long as you are VAT you can purchase access.

I have, but I am not allowed to supply you any information from there into the public domain as it is considered intellectual property and my access will be revoked if I do. All documents have ID codes printed on them.

No doubt there will be somewhere on the net with the documents.
 
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steveq

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I had a trawl of the internet for the Merc TIPS without much tangible success. I also saw that I could sign up to the official Merc TIPS site for €21 for a week, €28 for a month or €120 for a year.

I got the sensor from the dealer and fitted it. As with removing the old one, fitting the actual sensor was simple but routing the cable and connecting it was definitely not. I got there in the end but only after I unbolted the part that is the engine hoist bracket and also acts as the channel for the cables and popped off the plastic cover over the serpentine belt -- that made fiddling the cables into place slightly easier.
I reassembled everything and started the car.
I cleared the fault and the engine light went off. I brought the car for a good spin. The engine light stayed off but when I got back home and attached the OBD II reader the P054615 error was back :(.
I drove the car the next day and the Engine Warning light came back on :(:(.

The OBD II reader is showing the Exhaust Gas Temperature at 280 deg C permanently even when the car is cold:(:(:(.

I checked Exhaust Gas Temp reading on my E Class estate with the same engine, for comparison purposes and it showed the exhaust gas temp to be almost identical to the coolant temp at around 30 deg C (that car wasn't running and hadn't been used for a few hours).

I will check the cable connections and attach my voltmeter to check the resistance -- I really hope (pray) that I haven't damaged the new sensor in fitting it.

€28 for a month's access to TIPS might be the best option if I can't resolve the issue easily.
 
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steveq

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I disconnected the sensor at the socket and checked the resistance. There was 100% resistance which meant that there was a serious issue with the sensor.
I removed all the cables and the air filter box and tried to remove the sensor.
I undid the bolt but the sensor seemed to be wedged into the manifold. Without forcing it too hard it would not pull out - it had simply slotted into the manifold when it was fitted.
I was afraid that it would break and leave pieces in the manifold necessitating major dismantling work.
I heated the manifold near the sensor hole hoping it would expand sufficiently to allow the sensor to be removed.
Eventually it would pull out.
The top of the sensor was crushed and damaged which splayed it out slightly. I don't think any was left in the manifold fortunately. When I looked at the new sensor it is longer and goes deeper in the manifold than the previous sensor. It must have been crushed against the engine block as I tightened it.
The part number was different to the original and I was told that it was the replacement part. The fitting is different but still it is is about half an inch longer than the old sensor which I hadn't noticed when I fitted it.

I'll bring it back tomorrow and see what the dealer says.
 
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steveq

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I brought the sensor back to the dealership and I also brought my original part to show him the difference. The parts manager double checked the part number. The part number had changed to an new part number according to his computer system and he had supplied the correct replacement part. We also looked up a similar job they had done on a Merc with the same engine and saw that the replacement part had been fitted successfully.
He spoke to the mechanic that did that job and showed him my original part and the replacement part. He said that I had taken out the sensor with its bolt and a hollow bolt which goes into the manifold which the sensor bolts into. I had seen that bolt, tried and failed to split them so decided that it was just one unit. The new sensor had the same thread as the manifold so I had fitted it directly to the manifold and decided that that was the difference between the original and replacement parts -- how silly was that:oops:? The lack of the additional bolt made the sensor protrude further into the manifold which had physically damaged it. The mechanic put the old sensor into a vice and applied sufficient force to split the old sensor nut from the hollow manifold bolt.

So -- I had damaged the new sensor and had to buy another sensor -- ouch :mad:!!
They got the new sensor in the following day and I fitted it last night -- including the hollow bolt -- doh !!
As I have now fitted and removed the cable a few times I have the 'going way' of it. There is no need to remove the engine lifting bracket as I had done originally. There are 2 small bolts holding a electrical device towards the left of the front of the engine where the sensor cable runs which, when the bolts are removed and the device can be moved, makes slotting in the cable a bit easier.
I had the new sensor fitted and the air filter box back on with all the cables attached, etc. in about an hour.

I cleared the faults using the scanner and started the car.
No new DTCs and the engine light was off.
I brought it for a run and got it up to normal temp. I still had the scanner attached and watched the exhaust temp values. They were hovering around 120 - 140 deg C which I assume are OK.

:) Success but an expensive lesson -- don't make assumptions and scrupulously compare the old part with the new one prior to fitting. Still I satisfy myself in that I learnt how to do the job and overall it was probably still the same cost or even a bit cheaper than going to the dealership and paying for the labour.
 
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Stuw204

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Afternoon Steve, I was wondering if you could help me with a part number for the sensor or the official part name you replaced as I've changed the pressure sensor and managed to get rid of 2 codes but this code still stands.

''Y85 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Cooler Bypass Switchover Valve Fault 53336/6058'.'

As you say the part numbers have changed so abit confusing and merc are as helpful as ever...wanting £205 for scan and information for the part.

The car is used daily by the mrs so hopefully id order the part and changed instead of stripping it down to find part number to rebuild then have to do the job twice.

Much appreciated
Stu.

w204 2011 c220 estate.
 
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steveq

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Hi Stu,

I'm afraid I won't be of much help to you.
I never did resolve the ''Y85 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Cooler Bypass Switchover Valve Fault 53336/6058' issue.

I did resolve the P054615 & P208027 fault codes which were the Exhaust Gas Temp sensor upstream of the Turbo that were causing the orange Engine Management Light to come on.

If I look at the OBD II scanner the 53336/6058 error is still there and doesn't clear.
That said, the EML doesn't light up and I understand that it is quite tricky to replace so I have just ignored it.

Being cheeky, I would like to know how you get on with it as it would be great to get rid of the error.
 

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Hi Steve,
On the sensor you changed do you undo the sensor bolt or the larger lower bolt to remove it from the manifold. I have one to change on my vito. Many thanks, Ian
 

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Hi Stu,

I'm afraid I won't be of much help to you.
I never did resolve the ''Y85 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Cooler Bypass Switchover Valve Fault 53336/6058' issue.

I did resolve the P054615 & P208027 fault codes which were the Exhaust Gas Temp sensor upstream of the Turbo that were causing the orange Engine Management Light to come on.

If I look at the OBD II scanner the 53336/6058 error is still there and doesn't clear.
That said, the EML doesn't light up and I understand that it is quite tricky to replace so I have just ignored it.

Being cheeky, I would like to know how you get on with it as it would be great to get rid of the error.
Someone’s asking you a question buddy (the post above , he didn’t copy you in ) :D
 
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steveq

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Hi,

Yes, I did remove the larger bolt from the manifold.
The actual sensor is bolted into that but I couldn't get it undone in-situ.

I gave the larger bolt a few doses of easing oil and let it sit for a while. Actually, I gave the sensor a dosing too but I couldn't undo it.

It was eventually undone by putting it in a vice.
 

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Hi,

Yes, I did remove the larger bolt from the manifold.
The actual sensor is bolted into that but I couldn't get it undone in-situ.

I gave the larger bolt a few doses of easing oil and let it sit for a while. Actually, I gave the sensor a dosing too but I couldn't undo it.

It was eventually undone by putting it in a vice.
Steve,
Thank you for the reply I will give it a go tommorrow, cheers
 

Will Shaw

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Hello Steve

I have the same code P0546 c1 b1, what size socket is required to remove it? I’ve got sockets up to 19mm, wanted to know before I start the job so I can order larger sockets if needed.

many thanks
 
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steveq

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Hello Steve

I have the same code P0546 c1 b1, what size socket is required to remove it? I’ve got sockets up to 19mm, wanted to know before I start the job so I can order larger sockets if needed.

many thanks
You will need spanners not sockets.
Have a look at pictures of the sensor -- a socket won't fit over it.
I don't think it is larger than 19mm.
 

Will Shaw

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A32BDB4E-562F-4782-A96D-DFD7D4F88989.png There are sockets that are designed to remove sensors with a cable or pipe attached.see picture? You can actually break the sensor by using a spanner or round it off. It’s definitely bigger than a 19mm.
 
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steveq

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Hi,

I did break the old one when I took it off.
I wasn't overly concerned as it was faulty anyway.
I t was pretty well seized in and I had to use many doses of easing oil.

The only bolt that I could loosen was part of the manifold which the sensor was still seized into.
I don't think any socket that you have shown would have prevented the sensor from being physically damaged.

Fitting the new one is easier as it is screwed by hand and then just finally tightened using an open ended spanner. The socket you show means that you could use a torque wrench. I just tightened it up until it was tight enough.

I will have a look for the old sensor in the garage later today (I might have thrown it out) but I don't think it was bigger than 19mm.
 

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Thanks for the information Steve, I can imagine mine will be the same and most probably break!
That would be brilliant if you could check the size for me, as I assume it will be a few hours work involved. I’ve looked online but I can’t find any information regarding the size of it!

many thanks Steve
 
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steveq

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The removal of the air filter box which also entails disconnecting the ECU cables is a bit slow.

Once they are out of the way the sensor is easy to get at.

Undoing the old sensor cable and removing the cable and then fitting the new cable is very awkward. I suggest that you take careful note and some photos so that you can fit the new sensor cable exactly the same as the old one.

Have penetrating oil at the ready and apply it liberally. The exhaust manifold gets very hot and the sensor is almost welded into the manifold.

As I said above when i did it the larger 'hollow' bolt was easier to loosen. With that off, you will need to hold the larger bolt in a vice or similar while you unbolt the sensor.
 

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