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Engine won’t start - C220 CDI CLASSIC SE - 208.203, OM646.963 engine.

Discussion in 'Engine, Drivetrain, Fuel and Exhaust' started by NBurns, Jul 2, 2019.

  1. Tony Dyson

    Tony Dyson Senior Member

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    Your Mercedes:
    2014 C 220 CDI W204 OM 651
    Well look on the bright side, it hasn't seized! :)
    I would have expected rainwater a bit of diesel and a few dead flies in there and certainly not that amount of old oil, there should have only been the few teaspoons in there that @umblecumbuz advised you to pour in before you proceeded to turn the engine over. I think you should wait now until @Cole@MBS can visit you for a professional evaluation and advice.
     
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  2. umblecumbuz

    umblecumbuz Senior Member

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    Your Mercedes:
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    Your motor hasn't seized.
    It would now pay to churn it over on the starter, to free it up and get the bores clean and oil-covered. Yes, a small amount of fuel will also come out, and it will need cleaning up - but that's just labour and is not costing you anything. The most important action you can take now is to turn rhe engine over a few times, as said.

    And yes, you have a standard OBD2 port, so any OBD2 compliant scanner/code reader will fit. About the best for your MB is the iCarsoft - there are several models, all good.

    Your most urgent investment right now is a plastic sheet to keep the weather off both the bore openings and the electrical contacts that are now exposed.
     
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  3. OP
    NBurns

    NBurns Senior Member

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    Your Mercedes:
    C220 CDI Classic SE/2005/OM646.963
    My cylinder head area, where the injectors go, was spotlessly clean before I did this. Now have to clean it all off again today. Ggggrrrr!!! But yes, at least I know the engine is not seized. :-D
     
  4. OP
    NBurns

    NBurns Senior Member

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    Just cranked it some more with a micro fibre cloth and dish cloth on top of the injector holes. I have soaked up a lot of oil and what looks like dirty water. There is a bit of a resistance in one part of the cycle, as if something is sticking or having difficulty moving. The rest of the crank is fairly easy to move.
     
  5. Oldspanners

    Oldspanners Senior Member

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    You may have a rust mark on the cylinder bore from the water which will cause a little resistance but with some oil and a few revolutions it will clean up.
    Keep up the good work you're nearly there.
     
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  6. OP
    NBurns

    NBurns Senior Member

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    We (as in my girlfriend and I) have just attempted to turn over the engine using the starter motor and all we heard was a 'pop' from the starter motor area and the high pitched alarm sound which stops when we take the key out.
    My personal diagnosis (as an engineer) is that the starter motor is 'buggered'. Would everyone agree?
    Been asked to play penalty shoot out now with girlfriends son. Just to get a shrimp sweet!! :-O :)
     
  7. Uncle Benz

    Uncle Benz Senior Member

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    Sounds like the starter has burned out to me.

    I think it might also be prudent to remove the pipes from your inter cooler just to check it isn't full of oil.
     
  8. OP
    NBurns

    NBurns Senior Member

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    Oil from where?



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  9. OP
    NBurns

    NBurns Senior Member

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    I’ve already had the intercooler out and cleaned it through thoroughly.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  10. LostKiwi

    LostKiwi Senior Member

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    I did say forcibly expelled!
     
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  11. Uncle Benz

    Uncle Benz Senior Member

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    Well done. Was there a lot of oil in it from the turbo failure? That might go some way to explaining the amount of oil that was in the bores.
     
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  12. davidsl500

    davidsl500 Senior Member

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    If that amount of oil/water came out from hand cranking then I would getting my Pela 6000 extractor out and poking the tube down each bore to see what else I could suck out..
     
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  13. OP
    NBurns

    NBurns Senior Member

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    Pela 6000 extractor?!!!



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  14. OP
    NBurns

    NBurns Senior Member

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    Yes. A lot!! All cleaned out and put back in now. Including all the hoses and everything around the turbo.



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  15. Blobcat

    Blobcat Moderator

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  16. OP
    NBurns

    NBurns Senior Member

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  17. davidsl500

    davidsl500 Senior Member

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    Or something like this to keep the cost down! The one you found seems very cost effective and you could use it for future oil changes - which would be my next job if you pull out a lot of watery oil..
     
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  18. OP
    NBurns

    NBurns Senior Member

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    Thing is, I drained all the oil out and then put in 6.5 Litres of new clean oil plus a new filter. So i am a bit loathe now to do that again really.



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  19. OP
    NBurns

    NBurns Senior Member

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    Okay. Well I ordered and received a breaker bar however I did not think about what I was ordering before I ordered it. I had been able to crank the engine with difficulty using my girlfriend's late husband's ratchet bar. It was hard work with the short length of the bar but do able. The breaker bar is longer at 750mm, however, there is no ratchet!! I wasn't expecting that and with very little space down by the crank pulley, one has to continually remove the socket and reposition again. So, another question to ask. Is there such a thing as a breaker bar with a ratchet facility built in? around the 750mm length mark and made of Chrome Vanadium?
     
  20. Capra

    Capra Senior Member

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    I just googled it.

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-AK7316-Extendable-Ratcheting-Breaker/dp/B0035FHV04
     

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