Erratic Cut-out (not the same as previous posting!): W126

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firlandsfarm

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I have a 380SEL W126 in reasonable condition with c.170k miles. I have no experience of Mercedes so while I would describe myself as a reasonably competent "home" mechanic with good practicle knowledge of the internal combustion engine I have little knowledge of things like sensors etc. My last project was a full strip and rebuild of a 1968 Lamborghini V12 which I proudly upgraded from condenser ignition to electronic ignition! It runs beautifully without a sensor in sight.

My problem started about a year ago when on long journeys (say after 2 hours or more motoring without a break). I pulled away from stationary and experienced a short but complete cut-out, no jumping, no spluttering just a full stall with a dead tacho needle. Then the engine cut in again just as suddenly (before it and the car came to a stop) and I continued my journey experiencing the problem intermittently but only when pulling away from tickover. There is never any warning, tickover is fine and the engine always cut-in again before everything ground to a complete halt.
I mentioned it to my local dealer who said he could not find anything wrong (and so did not charge me!).

I continued to use the car and experience the problem which became an "inconvenience", I just got used to it but still could not see any common trait except that it become more frequent and the "required journey time" become progressively less. Unfortunately it has now reached the point where it is a problem. It can now happen over shorter journeys (30 - 40 miles) and more frequently when it does but never when I am due to take it for a service! Now it also sometimes brings the car to a full stop but when it does so it restarts without any undue cranking. The only other symptom that has developed (which may or may not be related) is that sometimes when coasting to a halt from higher revs. (over 2,500) say, when approaching a roundabout, the engine drops through tickover and stalls, sometimes it catches and recovers. The effect can be illustrated by reving the engine while the car is stationary, sometimes it cuts-out when lifting the foot off the accelerator and sometimes it doesn't.


I renewed the distributor cap and rotor arm recently just because they looked badly pitted but that has not made any difference (I did not expect it to because of the full in or full out nature of my problem and that it only happens when pulling from tickover).

Does anyone have any clues? Is there something that hands over the running of the engine from tickover to drive that might be delayed in taking over and that can be influenced by work/temperature?


All input gratefully received.


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talbir

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It is definitely an ignition problem, since if it was fuel related, car would splutter to a stall, whilst ignition system continues to run and burns off fuel in the system.

The fact that your tach signal is being killed instantly confirms that it's an ignition problem - and given that you've already eliminated the rotor and cap, there are only really 3 main ignition items left. The coil, the ignition ECU and finally the crank position sensor. I would guess it's this last item, since this is affected by temp, in that it's resistance increases with operating temp. It's max resistance should be 600ohms I believe, if it's greater then crank sensor is bad. I have seen instances where crank sensor was fine until car reached operating temperature, and then car would stall unneccasarily/tach signal would die instantly etc.

Crank sensor is about 70 pounds from MB only. But before changing any item, I reccomend you get the ignition system components, namely coil, Ignition ECU and crank sensor checked out for resistance and integrity. Also worth checking integrity of OVP relay contact pins too.
 
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firlandsfarm

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Thanks Talbir, but can I ask a few questions?

I can take the coil off and ask my local garage to check it for me but how can i test the ECU and crank sensor? Will I have to get the car to a Merc dealer? My problem is that I am 20 miles away from my nearest dealer and I'm not sure it will make it (also the car now needs an MOT, bit of a chicken/egg problem!). I have a workshop manual making its way to me so this might give me a clue or two.

What's the OVP relay? :oops:


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talbir

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You can detach the ignition ECU and have that tested at dealer, same for crank sensor. ECU will take 2 mins to remove and crank sensor may take 5 mins because it's a bitch to get to the sensor and remove the 5mm bolt holding it to the bell housing. The other end of the crank sensor is connected to the ECU. Removing these two items is no more difficult than removing ignition coil.

It will be dificult to test these items without the right meters/systems. A local independant specialist should be able to check the ignition system - hopefully you have one nearer than the MB dealer.

Alternatively have your car towed to the dealer by your RAC/AA breakdown service, if you're a member.

Finally, you could test out the components yourself by testing with known working ones from another 380 SE/SEL/SEC. MAybe worth asking an MB breakers yard if they could send you a ECU and sensor for testing - if it solves your problem you'll buy it, if not pay them 10 pounds for testing use.

The OVP (Over-Voltage Protection) relay on your model car is situated in the fuse box. It is silver with a plastic lid that houses a fuse. With the car started and at operating temp, gentle twiggle or tap the relay and see if car stalls or tries to die. If it does, then relay/relay contacts are bad. I doubt this is your problem though, but always worth checking.
 

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just scanning the message board and i thought i would let you know that i had a similar cut out problem which after a while i realised started when i switched from sport to economy on the gearbox setting put the switch back to sport and it stopped cutting out ???
 
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firlandsfarm

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talbir

I know this post is old now but hoping that you pick this up.

Where is the crank sensor and what does it look like? I have acquired a CD copy of the (claimed) Merc. manual but can find no mention of a crank sensor!


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firlandsfarm

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I have just found that I should have a TDC transmitter. It should be at the front of the engine near the power steering pump and air conditioning compressor. This is the wrong end for the crank position sensor mentioned. Is it a different variant doing the same job or something completely different? If a "different variant" then could this still contribute to my problem or should I move on to the other suggestions?


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On your nearside engine firewall, just behind your passenger headlight, there is the ignition ECU. It is silver coloured made by Bosch. It has two input wires - one should be a thick gauge grey one(which goes to the coil) and the second wire, a thinner green wire, goes to the side of the distributor. Which is probably why it's not called a crank sensor on this year model ! But it's got the same function and same principle.

It's quite fiddly to remove the sensor - it's bolted to the side of the distributor by an 8mm bolt I believe. Best to remove the distributor cap by unclamping the two spring hooks, easily done with a flat face screwdriver.

Once the caps out the way, it'll be a little easier. With the 8mm bolt undone, just pull out the sensor.

Talbir
 
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