fixed leaking heater blower now new problem...

[anyweb]

hi all

i've completely taken out the heater blower motor *plus surrounding bits* and refurbished the motor plus tested it before refitting, all worked fine, now that its all refitted as soon as i turn the heater blower switch, the fuse blows in my engine bay,

i suspected a faulty switch but i'm really not sure, is there any way to test this as i'm running out of fuses and want heat !!

please note, this is for my old 1966 W110

cheers
anyweb

 

[television]

Do make sure that the heater motor has not got a short from live to chassis (ground) I so not see how it could be the switch

 

[anyweb]

myself and claes (the car guru) looked at it in detail tonite and surmised that either something is pressing against the propeller causing it to run slow or its still got a problem,

bad news, as i have to get it all out again,

what a bummer but i will resolve this problem one way or another unlike the previous owners !!

cheers
anyweb

 

[television]

Thats what I like to hear," keep it up "

I fixed a plasma TV the other day and there were 74 screws holding on the back, when I was putting in the last one I remembered that I had not tied up the cables, so back off again

 

[anyweb]

ok i removed the whole assembly and disconnected the three hoses again and got it all out, didn't take too long once you've done it before,

anyway, now its out i can see nothing is blocking it, when i power it on the fan starts but isn't fast, sounds like it's struggling, then the fuse blows, so i will get the motor out again and disassemble it again, must be something wrong inside it....

cheers
anyweb

 

[Dec]

Run the motor independently of the cars electric’s via another battery or a battery charger, this will at least indicate if the fault is with the motor or the car electrics.

Is this a single speed motor or has it got 2 or 3 speed settings?

Dec

 

[anyweb]

its single speed controlled by a rheostat which changes the voltage and therefore speed

we took the motor apart tonite and everything looked ok, tested voltage and magnetism and it seemed fine, put it all back together again and it wouldn't spin when power from a batteyr charger (v or 12v) applied so we called it a nite

might need a new motor but i hope not....

cheers
anyweb

 

[Dec]

Then the motor is at fault, any motor that gets power to the brushes should run, the only fixable part of the motor is the brushes or the springs that press them to the commutator, if the springs were weak or brushes sticking then that could cause arcing which might explain the blown fuses, perhaps a bit of cleaning might help.

I once took a dead window motor apart and cleaned everything and scraped out the segment groves on the commutator with a matchstick, it worked fine afterwards, however it was never put back into the car so don’t know how it might perform under load.

Dec

 

[Aussie Nick]

If you have replaced the contact points, which i suspect you have, The motor will sometimes not run properly or at all until the contac points are bedded in to the same shape as the internal shaft with which they make contact with. I had a similar problem with mine (tested fine and ran on the bench but ran slowly or not at all in the car).
My solution was to stretch out the contact springs therby creating more pressure on the face of the contacts and letting the motor spin out on the bench until the face of the contacts were worn down to the curvature shape of the intrenal fan shaft.
I didnt have a fuse blowing but it seems to me that the soldering of the new contacts may have been overdone and that is where the shorting problem may be.

 

[television]

When you fit new brushes,, you must take off the 4 corners to stop them from sticking,,one lead goes to each field coil and they should both measure the same on a resistance check,,is one open circuit, when the commutator has a trail of sparks following it,, that shows a short turn on the armature or the wires have come off the commutator in one part

 

[Aussie Nick]

Thanks for putting in the right terminology Malcolm . Its been a while since I did that job and I had forgotten the technical terms . I think you are agreeing with most of what I said....................I think

 

[television]

Thanks for putting in the right terminology Malcolm . Its been a while since I did that job and I had forgotten the technical terms . I think you are agreeing with most of what I said....................I think

Yes

 

[anyweb]

update, havnt had time to do anything with the car in the last week or so so it's lying still with its heating element out, i bought a second hand motor from a w111 which DOES work but its a smaller motor so don't know if i will adapt it for this or not, i\ll make the decision tomorrow, i miss driving my old banger !

cheers
anyweb

 

[television]

update, havnt had time to do anything with the car in the last week or so so it's lying still with its heating element out, i bought a second hand motor from a w111 which DOES work but its a smaller motor so don't know if i will adapt it for this or not, i\ll make the decision tomorrow, i miss driving my old banger !

cheers
anyweb

Yes you would look more at home in Malmö in the 111

 

[anyweb]

fixed !!!!

hi all,

well the replacement fan i got was smaller but i've adapted the heater assembly (by carefully drilling two 4mm holes) and attached the new(er) fan, i tested it thoroughly during fitting and after and then connected up the hoses and did a leak test, drove the car for about 1 hour tonite and wow the car warmed up with no leak !! first time since I bought the car !!

it was great to drive the car again and great to hear the fan blowing freely and to feel warm air coming out,