Gearbox trouble

[Chrisdd1]

Hi my gearbox box won't engage any gears when warm only when cold... I sourced another box an torque converter and fitted it... Now the car will start of in first gear on into second gear and up to 3rd gear only.. It drops back down to second but not first...only when you switch the car off and on will it go back to first but then it repeats the same thing over... My mercedes is an 2011 w212 E250 coupe model... Does the gearbox need to be programme by a specialist or something else... Any help would be appreciated thanks Chris

 

[brandwooddixon]

It's quite possible that it may need coding to your car. and that without that it is dropping into limp mode.
Where are you based? If you're in the UK and don't know of one a forum member may be able to recommend an independent specialist.

Did you get the previous gearbox inspected (with codes read) before sourcing a second hand gearbox?

 

[Chrisdd1]

I'm based in N Ireland... Its the same gearbox as the one ee pull out...we took out the internals of my old gearbox and put it into the one i bought and its doing the exact same thing... Its coming up in his computer as 1st gear us slipping.. This same code came up in both boxes... That's why I was wondering if it was a code or programme that it needed.. Again any help would be much appreciated thanks Chris

 

[Bay Leaf]

If there was a fault with the previous box, why did you put the internals into the replacement box. I'm confused as to why you didn't have the first box scanned or even serviced eg oil and filter changed before going down the road of an exchange one.

 

[Chrisdd1]

Yes full service on it about 6 months ago... Then out of the blue it wouldn't engage any gear's.. once the gearbox cooled down it would engage but once it warmed up it wouldn't work... The mechanic took of the sump and it was full of metal shavings... So i was quoted £2500 to get it fully reconditioned...so source a gearbox and torque converter and as I stated before it will gladly take of in 1st gear up to third but won't go back down to 1st only if you restart the car again...the mechanic was thinking it was the number one selenoid so we swap the complete unit that was originally in my car with the purchase one, and it did exactly the same thing... That's why I'm asking on here for anyone who knows if the box needs a code or some sort of programming... Or it the vault something else... Any help or advice would be appreciated thanks Chris

 

[mioba]

Your garage was not good at diagnosing the initial problem tbf, i would bite the bullet here and get to a MB dealership and ask them to code the box if needed - doubt your garage has access to the software. Assuming of course its a coding issue.

 

[Jim2]

Metal shavings in the sump of any machine is never a good sign...but before any dismantling, was it scanned for fault codes . With modern cars of any make, a scan is the first step. Problem is if you pick up a s/h transmission from a scrapping or anywhere else, it's already out, and no possible to get it scanned, until it's fitted in the car. Sometimes it works, but not always. Best of luck with it

 

[Chrisdd1]

So put my old box back in and scan??... Plus there was no engine management lights etc..
Just wouldn't drive only when cold...

 

[Jim2]

If it was me, at this stage, I'd take it to a competent MB specialist, get him to scan it,and based on what the scan shows, take his advice on what to do next. Even if engine dash lights were showing, it might not indicate a transmission problem. But for sure there's a problem, and only a scan will identify it. Trying this and that,is the longest and possibly most expensive course of action.

 

[Chrisdd1]

Ok thanks

 

[mioba]

If it was me, at this stage, I'd take it to a competent MB specialist, get him to scan it,and based on what the scan shows, take his advice on what to do next. Even if engine dash lights were showing, it might not indicate a transmission problem. But for sure there's a problem, and only a scan will identify it. Trying this and that,is the longest and possibly most expensive course of action.

Indeed, modern cars esp mercs are not like cars of yesteryear. A fails replace A, no more likely something controlling A has failed.
Competent MB indy with the right diags will hopefully give you more direction.

 

[Jim2]

Indeed, modern cars esp mercs are not like cars of yesteryear. A fails replace A, no more likely something controlling A has failed.
Competent MB indy with the right diags will hopefully give you more direction.

There was a time when I worked as a mechanic, many moons ago, and certain makes or models suffered from hereditary faults, and even speaking to the customer over the phone, and listening to his description of what was happening, you could diagnose the fault, and better than 90% be correct. And even in the present time, you'll find a mechanic who has worked on the same make for donkeys years, and once he's heard the symptoms, he can form a pretty good idea of what the problem is. And maybe more importantly, he can say with a 100% certainty what it's not. Even with that level of skill, he / she will need a scan to confirm the diagnosis. Modern car's can throw up problems that a mechanic needs to be a third IT Technician, a third Detective and a third trapeze artist crossing the wire between the two.

 

[Chrisdd1]

I appreciate your help and will speak with a specialist 2day thanks again Chris

 

[Jim2]

I appreciate your help and will speak with a specialist 2day thanks again Chris

Good luck , I hope that it will work out well for you. Keep us posted, I'm sure that you are not the first, or will be the last either to have this problem.

 

[ajlsl600]

Not impossible you transfered origional issue to where u moved internals to.
Unfortunateltly today one needs at least in first place to be led by the codes n guages
Bits of metal not good. Did you determine, was metal from discs or? These days some makes use fibre discs on metal plates did you determine which. If u only had issue with one range, chances are discs or seals for that range or loss of pressure to that clutch range piston ie seals or o rings that deliver pressure to that clutch or faulty solenoid responsible for filling that clutch.
My view anyway

 

[Chrisdd1]

Wad speaking with specialist 2day he's telling me that it could be anything won't know until they do a star plug in... He told me what my mechanic down was spot on now it could be oil/steel filings in the solenoids etc... Until he takes a closer look i won't really know... But I'll keep you's posted thanks

 

[Jim2]

Wad speaking with specialist 2day he's telling me that it could be anything won't know until they do a star plug in... He told me what my mechanic down was spot on now it could be oil/steel filings in the solenoids etc... Until he takes a closer look i won't really know... But I'll keep you's posted thanks

It's understandable, for anyone in the motor business nowadays ( and going back quite awhile) First call is always a scan to try and pinpoint the problem. And then take it from there. It's the only way with modern vehicles which are highly computerised.Best of Luck with it.

 

[Bay Leaf]

Yes good luck with it. I guess at the end of the day the recondition rout would be the one to go down, if you can afford it.

 

[ajlsl600]

If contaminant is sourced as from exterior source???? It will be vital all oil lines, elbows ect are well flushed. Or the issue WILL rtn.

 

[Bay Leaf]

If contaminant is sourced as from exterior source???? It will be vital all oil lines, elbows ect are well flushed. Or the issue WILL rtn.

I don't understand the first part of your post, but I think if a re con gearbox was to be fitted new oil would be added to the correct amount. The OP has stated that the oil and filter was changed when the problem first arose. I know he mentioned that there was "metal particles " in the sump but they would stay there as they could not get through the filter so couldn't contaminate the oil.