glow plug stuck

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umair

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I am trying to change all four glow plugs on my E220 CDI 210. I am facing a problem with the fourth one which got stuck inside. It turned loose OK, but when I tried to pull the plug it does not budge. I've tried every thing, put WD40 and other anti rust fluids but still I could not pull it out.
Any idea how I am going to pull that sman thing out of its hole.

Thanks
 
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umair

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Just to add to my previous post.

Why Iam putting new glow plugs? Beucase local Mercedes dealer has checked the engine on MBZ computer, and the result says "Common rail deisel injector on 4--Failed".

So they have asked me to replace the glow plugs. But they could not take the fourth glow plug out and now my car is stuck with them for past two days.

I'll really apprecaite your comments on this

Thanks
 
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umair

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We have decided to leave the plug like it is. Becuase we do not want to take a chance of breaking it.
I need to know if I will face any kind problem in starting or driving my E220 CDI with 3 glow plugs. Also any suggestion in taking out the glowplug will be very appreciated.
 

panason1c

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Mercedes ML270CDI, VW Polo 1.9tdi, BMW K1200RS
Not sure why the plug will not pull out, perhaps the 'element' part of the plug has burnt out and expanded,......... seems to me that you need to be sure that the plug is fully unscrewed and then a firm pulling/twisting motion using 'mole' grips should see it out!
 

190

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You probably wont notice any difference starting with it being a Cdi, you may notice it if the temperature falls well below zero. It wont make one bit of difference when you drive the car they are only used for cold starting, the only thing that you will notice is the glow plug light will come on after starting the car and remain lit for roughly 30 seconds.
 

piestore

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heater plug

Hi

Its no problem as regardes starting the CDI engine doesn't require heater plugs to start it just gets it passed the emmisions regulations.

As regardes the stuck plug, It is likley that the hexagon at the top has sheared off and that the rest of the plug is still srewed in very firmly. Having got into this situation there is a kit available to MB dealers to remove the plug (Via electric drill) without removing the head.
 
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umair

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Re: heater plug

piestore said:
Hi

Its no problem as regardes starting the CDI engine doesn't require heater plugs to start it just gets it passed the emmisions regulations.

As regardes the stuck plug, It is likley that the hexagon at the top has sheared off and that the rest of the plug is still srewed in very firmly. Having got into this situation there is a kit available to MB dealers to remove the plug (Via electric drill) without removing the head.


I have been driving the car without any problem. But I am interested in knowing what kind of kit is available for removing the plug. The car has no problem but I want to replace the plug, for me it's like a thorne in a rose.
 

piestore

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heater plug

Hi

I haven't actually seen the kit provided by MB but I have made a tool for dooing it in our work shop, The main Part Is a drill guide that fits into the recess where the heater plug fits this guide has a whole in it the same .25mm smaller that the tapping drill size for the heater plug.

To use the tool you have to break of the top of the heaterplug ( the part that is rotating is only held in by the core of the plug). Then insert the guide and drill down the guide with the drill .25mm smaller than tapping drill but only to a depth just below the end of the thread, it helps to have the new plug present to get this measurement, at this stage withdraw the drill and guide but dont pull out the bottom part of the heater plug, now run a taper tap of the correct size into the heater plug threads being carfull to pick up the old threads, then repeat with plug tap. blow out the hole with an air line and inspect if its all ok remove the bottom part of the plug .

Its time consuming and great care needs to be taken its not really a DIY job and the cost of the guide and taps makes it not worthwhile for just the one plug but it is quite satisfieing and its better than taking the head off

Good luck
 

OlafMaxwell

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Is there a need to use new glow plugs that are exactly the same as the broken one if you are measuring from the new one or are all glow plugs made to the same exact deimensions?

Car should run fine with three I think, only really noticeable when frosty or very cold starts.
 

200e

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My father in law had the same problem with his 250e I know the engine is different model, but Mercedes had his car for a week trying to remove the broken glow plug which was going to cost over £1500 for them to supply and fit a new cylinder head.
They tried all sorts of way to remove the old glow plug resulting in the threads in the head being damaged. He refused to have the work done by them he removed the car from there premises and took the cylinder head to a engineer shop who repaired it by re- drilling the hole for the glow plug to a larger size thus tapping the hole and fitting a helicoil cost for repairing the head back in 1997 was £120. He got the local garage to refit the head for £350 a big saving, so if your car is starting leave well alone because the cdi don?t need heater plus to start unless under extreme conditions
 

dieselman

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umair said:
Just to add to my previous post.

Why Iam putting new glow plugs? Beucase local Mercedes dealer has checked the engine on MBZ computer, and the result says "Common rail deisel injector on 4--Failed".

So they have asked me to replace the glow plugs. But they could not take the fourth glow plug out and now my car is stuck with them for past two days.

I'll really apprecaite your comments on this

Thanks

So why are you replacing the glowplug when one of the injectors is showing as failed?
 

dieselman

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Re: heater plug

piestore said:
Hi

I haven't actually seen the kit provided by MB but I have made a tool for dooing it in our work shop, The main Part Is a drill guide that fits into the recess where the heater plug fits this guide has a whole in it the same .25mm smaller that the tapping drill size for the heater plug.

To use the tool you have to break of the top of the heaterplug ( the part that is rotating is only held in by the core of the plug). Then insert the guide and drill down the guide with the drill .25mm smaller than tapping drill but only to a depth just below the end of the thread, it helps to have the new plug present to get this measurement, at this stage withdraw the drill and guide but dont pull out the bottom part of the heater plug, now run a taper tap of the correct size into the heater plug threads being carfull to pick up the old threads, then repeat with plug tap. blow out the hole with an air line and inspect if its all ok remove the bottom part of the plug .

Its time consuming and great care needs to be taken its not really a DIY job and the cost of the guide and taps makes it not worthwhile for just the one plug but it is quite satisfieing and its better than taking the head off

Good luck

I havn't had the pleasure of seeing one of these shear yet, but do know of it. Are you saying that only the head is shearing and the plug is still locked in by the thread only?

Also the new plugs are stronger, but when were they uprated?
 

piestore

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Hi

Dieselman, yes it is only the hexagon of the top of the plug that shears (in general), I didn't know that the new plugs were stronger but I will try to find out
 

OlafMaxwell

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Helicoil is a motorcyclists dream. Alloy heads on [small] aluminium engines, very prone to stripping threads if overtightened by an enthusiastic 18 year old. Enter Heliciol, rethread the head and refit sparkmplug . Very cheap and very reliable, would be regarded as a safe and acceptable repair.

Before you ask, I never needed one but no one would be without them!
 

dieselman

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Will a soaking with penetrating oil or diesel and then a reverse thread "easi out" not get the buggers out?
 
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