Got some Sonax BSD

C350Carl

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If you want something durable with incredible water repellency I would look at Sonax Polymer Net Shield, fairly cheap and really good



I've used that and I eventually settled for the Hybrid Net Protect. It's durability is about the same even though PNS is claimed to be longer.

Hybrid Net Protect is a lot better to apply and not as fussy.
 
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Bennyboy A250

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It's been about 10 days now since I gave the car a going over with BSD and it's still beading, but not as tight a bead as when i first did it and I have noticed the little dots that are mentioned more so as the bead gets bigger though?
So if I add a few more coats of BSD it'll stop this from happening.

And your missing out if you don't touch and stroke your motor! (",)
 
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C350Carl

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The reason the beading won't be as tight is you have 10days of dust/dirt/road grime etc on there.

The dots will be because most rain in the UK is moisture formed around some form of particle (be it sand, industrial fallout etc). So when the beading sits on a flat panel and then dries it leaves the particle (spots) behind.

Wash and dry the car using a decent pH neutral shampoo and dry with a drying towel. The next time it rains be bead will be tight again.

No point in using anymore than 3-4 coats as you'll be wasting product after that.

I normally re-apply a coat every 3mths as a top up.
 

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Did you know that back in 1928 there were no polishes for motor cars as they were all hand painted, during 1927 the first cellulose paints were invented, so cars started to be sprayed, even by 1929 there was no car polish much on the market at all
 

C350Carl

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Here is an example of the Sonax holding up on my car. It hasn't been washed for nearly 2mths now.

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Beading isn't as tight as normal. But were I to wash it the beading would go tight again. Next time I was it I will not apply Sonax and I'll mist water onto it to show what it's like.
 

C350Carl

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You shouldn't clay unless you're going to polish. You marr the paint when claying.
 

C350Carl

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I've been detailing cars for the past 8yrs and people pay me good money to do so. You can not clay a car an not marr the paint.

I've tried most clays and quite a few clay mitts. I now use Bilt Hamber, which is about the best and doesn't require anything other than water for lube.

Clay picks off contaminants on the paint and drags it around the paint for the first few drags until it sinks into the clay.

This shows clay with new on the right to used. Notice the long streak lines. The contaminants (in this case Tar and building site fallout) weren't that shape on the car.

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This is a bonnet of a Merc I detailed. Ignoring the larger fine scratches. Notice the fine smear type marks? They are from claying the car as it causes micro abrasions.

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This is the same bonnet once machine polished. You can remove the abrasions by hand but it still required polish to do so.

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If you're careful (and don't let the car get to the state this was) you can minimise the marks. But you will cause marring to the paint when claying.
 

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I've tried most clays and quite a few clay mitts. I now use Bilt Hamber, which is about the best and doesn't require anything other than water for lube.

I also use that, it by far and away the best Clay I have used, so simple, I always polish and Wax after Claying
 
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Bennyboy A250

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Gave my car a wash today and I definitely see what you mean about the bead going back tight again, very chuffed with the BSD and so so easy to clean.
Not applied another coat of Sonax as my car was in bright sun shine by the time I'd finished washing it. Not complaining though fed up of the wet stuff.




That's just a wash with a car shampoo and dried off with a micro fibre cloths :cool:
Cheers
Bren:)
 
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Bennyboy A250

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Wow C350Carl that's a mint job you do detailing ace pal:cool:

My car is 4 year old now and so I bought myself a clay bar set with the intention of doing my car but one thing and another I've never got round to it.
What I'm after doing is use a wax with a tint/dye in it, thinking purple so could do with claying it to remove any waxes and dirt/grit enbedded in my top lacquer coat.
I got two clay pads and a bottle of lubricant in the kit how long will it take me on average (I'm an amateur not a pro like yourself pal lol)
And once I've clayed I'm I best applying the wax and sealant strait after.
And can you recommend a wax that will give me a purple tint to my silver car please.
Cheers for any advice.
Thanks
Bren:D
 
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Bennyboy A250

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This is the clay bar set I've got, is it any good? Wife bought it me as a Xmas gift but never used it yet.
Cheers for and advice thanks Bren
 

C350Carl

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You won't completely remove polish claying the car unless you're overly aggressive (at which point you risk damaging the car) or you get an aggressive clay. Megs Quik Clay isn't the latter.

To completely remove wax etc you need to polish the car.

As for time to Clay. It shouldn't take any longer than an hour max. To put into perspective if I were to detail your car it would take me 15-20mins to clay it. But I do remove a lot of the fallout in other ways before I start.

You should clay the car then polish. That way the wax/sealant you're going to apply will have the best chance to bond to the car once the polish residue is removed.

Just remember that whatever you use second will have degraded performance. So if you wax then apply sealant. The wax bonds to the car and the sealant bonds to the wax. You won't do any damage in doing so and to be honest I have done it myself in the past at customer request. But I would always recommend the sealant goes on first.

Another thing to bear in mind is wax and sealant are there to act as a sacrificial layer to protect the polished surface. Something that is often misunderstood by a lot of people.

My advice would be to stick to Sonax. Once you have applied 4 coats over a few days (try and leave at least 24hrs between application) then your car will look the best it's going to without a full on detail.

I can't comment on tinted wax as it's not something I've ever been asked to do.

Here is my Palladium silver C350 with 4 coats of Sonax on it as an example.

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And a nighttime beading shot.

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V6Matty

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Carl, please stop posting your beading porn :rolleyes:;):p it puts all of us to shame
 
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Bennyboy A250

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Thank you C350Carl that's brilliant, much appreciate all your info very informative cheers :cool:

Sorry for another question pal and you don't have to answer pal;)
But spent an age cleaning all the crude off my exoust tips, cleaned them with some T-Cut and fine grade wire wool, this is the before

And these are the after shots;)


Thought my tips was chrome but after cleaning them I think they are in fact stainless steel.
Is their anything I can seal these with so it makes them a bit easier next time I tart them up.
All I've done after cleaning at the mo is give them a spray with WD40:lol:
Cheers
Bren ;)

Once again sorry for all the questions :rolleyes:
 


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