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GUIDE: Replacing your fuel filter (W208)

Discussion in 'Engine, Drivetrain, Fuel and Exhaust' started by JSeaman, May 8, 2012.

  1. JSeaman

    JSeaman Senior Member

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    Step 1 - Jack up the rear offside nice and high so you have room to work (don't make the job harder by cramming yourself in a tiny gap).

    Secure the car with axle stands

    (not shown in this photo sorry)

    [​IMG]

    Step 2 - Locate the plastic cover over the fuel pump, this i just in front of the suspension as shown

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited by a moderator: May 8, 2012
  2. OP
    JSeaman

    JSeaman Senior Member

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    Step 3 - There are three plastic 10mm nuts that hold the plastic undertray on, you will need a couple of extension bars on your ratchet to reach them through

    the holes cut out in the plastic cover as shown

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Step 4 - Remove the 3 nuts then wriggle the plastic undertray out. It is quite squashy so easy enough to move around but it is a little awkward - don't just

    tug it because you could damage pipework

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  3. OP
    JSeaman

    JSeaman Senior Member

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    Step 5 - You will now see two metal cylinders, one is the fuel pump (the smaller one) and the other is your fuel filter. I have circled both on the picture

    [​IMG]

    Step 6 - Hopefully your filter carrier will be in better shape than mine, if so then release the carrier so you can access the filter

    [​IMG]

    Step 7 - Now onto the pipework, you have 4 connections to deal with, the first is easy just pull it off

    [​IMG]
     
  4. OP
    JSeaman

    JSeaman Senior Member

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    Step 8 - Next is the output line which runs to the fuel rail, this one will leak quite a bit of fuel so have a vessel ready to catch it. When you release the

    jubilee clip it will start leaking so get some goggles on and make sure you're not right under it!

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Step 9 - Next is the link between the filter and fuel pump, again, this one isn't too bad and won't leak loads so you can take it off and replace the pipe if

    it is in bad shape. It's worth inspecting the hoses if you can as there are often defects you can't see on the car, I highlighted one of mine in the second

    picture

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  5. OP
    JSeaman

    JSeaman Senior Member

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    Step 10 - Be prepared to fit an array of new jubilee clips as required! They get very tired under the car and you are likely to need to replace some of them

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Step 11 - Finally, there is the main feed line which will leak a lot of fuel. The way I did this was to switch over each pipe one at a time to the new filter

    , finishing with this one. If you try and disconnect all 4 then change it over you'll spill a lot of petrol!

    [​IMG]

    Step 12 - Reattach your pump, I had to do it with a cable tie!

    [​IMG]
     
  6. OP
    JSeaman

    JSeaman Senior Member

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    Step 13 - Once everything is back together, fire up the car and check for leaks

    [​IMG]

    Step 14 - Now slide the cover bak up (two bolt holes are nearest the wheel and the single bolt hole nearest the centre of the car). Be careful not to hook on

    any of the wires. One thing I forgot to mention, check all the rubber mounts are hooked up (I circled two of them on the second picture) before you cover it

    up

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Step 15 - Tighten up the 3 plastic 10mm nuts and drop the car down off the jack

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Uncle Benz

    Uncle Benz Senior Member

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    Nice write up!

    Always use an axle stand or two if venturing under a car. A trolley jack is not sufficient on it's own.

    Play safe out there guys!
     
  8. television

    television Always remembered RIP

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    From another aspect I was working under a MK10 whilst on a trolley jack, I came out to get some tools and my 2 year old came out and let the jack down, it makes you think
     
  9. OP
    JSeaman

    JSeaman Senior Member

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    Yup, as per step 1 - use an axle stand

    I've seen more than a few jack incidents occur now so look after yourself
     
  10. grober

    grober Senior Member

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    Excellent write up. However I would take issue with a couple of things. Holding up a component on a high pressure fuel line with a nylon tie is simply not good practice. Especially if the component in question A2024711341 BRACKET http://www.neoriginal.ru/cat/mb/part__1_1_45Y_208_465_/47_030



    is a mere £10-31 from Inschape probably less than the cost of the filter! You will also reduce the spillage of inflamable fuel by the use of proper fuel line clamps e.g. these are very neat and will fit into confined spaces http://www.sealey.co.uk/PLPageBuild...rogroup=1238&analysiscode=&requiredresults=16 and cost a mere £13-50 Their rounded jaws are better than using vice grips which is probably how the flexibles were damaged in the first place.
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2012
  11. OP
    JSeaman

    JSeaman Senior Member

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    Grober, thanks for the feedback it's all welcomed.

    To be clear, I wasn't recommending you ditch the cage and go for a cable tie - my sarcasm obviously didn't come across! That said, if you find yourself in the situation I was in then you can easily cable tie it back up (temporarily) as the fuel pressure does not move the filter around.

    I'm not a fan of clamping the lines, the way I did the filter you just switch one line at a time and never clamp them but interesting clamps though, I hadn't seen them before
     
  12. anyweb

    anyweb Senior Member

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    i love guides like this, good work documenting, you should do more

    but !!!!!!!!!

    next time show photos WITH car stands, i've seen cars on jacks that have 'fallen' down or lost pressure and come this close to damaging someones head...

    i hope you don't mind but i've edited your post to spell it out loud and clear
    cheers
    niall
     
  13. OP
    JSeaman

    JSeaman Senior Member

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    I hope there aren't too many more, they just grow as the wife's car needs attention! :)

    There were already comments in there about axle stands, I move mine around so they are right next to me when working on the car so they appear absent from the pics but they are in constant use (2 usually), no problem if you have/want to add more comments about it though
     
  14. jefrs

    jefrs Senior Member

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    Cable ties - rarely known to fail and cost less than a penny each. I might have slapped two in there to prevent it wobbling. New bracket? - great but you haven't got one when you're under the car. Cable ties then.
    It may be a "temporary" but you won't get a round tuit to go digging under there again just to change a cable tie.

    Slightly OT - I'm a little surprised by the amount of rust on a few of the components lurking under there. Might have taken the opportunity to splash some Waxoyl about. I know it's not the best stuff but it does come in a handy squirt can.
     
  15. OP
    JSeaman

    JSeaman Senior Member

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    jefrs, you know how long 'temporary' fixes last :)

    It's a very rusty underside, that's true of most of the car. It looks immaculate on top but underneath there is plenty of tin worm lurking sadly
     
  16. smb

    smb New Member

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  17. OP
    JSeaman

    JSeaman Senior Member

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    :) That could get expensive! There are a number of different rust treatments out there, nail polish would not be high up my list
     
  18. wroudy

    wroudy New Registration

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    HI, I cannot see the pictures.
     
  19. OP
    JSeaman

    JSeaman Senior Member

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    I'm afraid I have reached my limit for usage so they will be back on the 8th
     

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