hand/footbrake

idz92

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hello could anyone tell me if the hand/footbrake is self adjusting mine doesnt seem to hold very well on steep hills [2006 SL350 12000mls] THANKS
 

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Yes it is self adjusting,, they are not wonderful things at the best of times, there should be around 6 clicks
 

Number_Cruncher

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Yes it is self adjusting,

Really? The handbrake shoes look just like W124 handbrake shoes (the adjuster even has 210 ad 124 part numbers), and they certainly are not self adjusting.
 

kth286

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agreed the 124 are not self adjusting.
 

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Sorry got that wrong, and I should have given that more thought. We have never had a post on this before, and the adjusters always have to be backed off before you remove the drum to clear the ridge when dismantling. Just the fact that I have never had to adjust the parking brake of any MB that I have owned
 

Number_Cruncher

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Just the fact that I have never had to adjust the parking brake of any MB that I have owned

I think that sometimes, and I don't imagine for a millisecond you would fall into this trap Malcolm, people adjust up on the cable rather than on the little star wheel adjusters inside the drum.

I tend to release the cable first, adjust up inside the drum, and then reset the cable to give just a little slack when in the off position.

The MB procedure for hand brake cable adjustment is rather arcane IMO - what do you think of it?
 

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I think that sometimes, and I don't imagine for a millisecond you would fall into this trap Malcolm, people adjust up on the cable rather than on the little star wheel adjusters inside the drum.

I tend to release the cable first, adjust up inside the drum, and then reset the cable to give just a little slack when in the off position.

The MB procedure for hand brake cable adjustment is rather arcane IMO - what do you think of it?

This has been one of those stupid things that I took for granted,,lets say that I have replaced some 100 sets of brake shoes in my life, and the have all had an auto adjuster. OK I have not changed MB shoes, but have fitted plenty of drums.
Last night after your comment, I had a look at mine, and after a while I saw what you meant,,it is not adjustable.

Its still sinking in, it was the fact that you have to back them off when removing the old drum, and that ridge is no higher than surface of the drum was when new.
 

Number_Cruncher

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I have to confess that adjusting these is one of my least favourite jobs - I tend to get mixed up about which way I should be turning the little star wheel, and before I know it, I've backed the brake right off!

I used to fight with (and lose to!) a very similar brake on the rear axle of Carltons and Senators and some of the higher spec Cavaliers and Astras when I worked in a Vauxhall garage many years ago.
 

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I have to confess that adjusting these is one of my least favourite jobs - I tend to get mixed up about which way I should be turning the little star wheel, and before I know it, I've backed the brake right off!

I used to fight with (and lose to!) a very similar brake on the rear axle of Carltons and Senators and some of the higher spec Cavaliers and Astras when I worked in a Vauxhall garage many years ago.

Thats made me feel better, after all the years of working on these things, I still forget:D:D
 
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idz92

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sorry im confused are my 2006 sl self adjusting or not [brakes] thanks
 

Number_Cruncher

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The footbrake on both front and rear axles, being disc brakes is entirely self adjusting.

The parking brake, operated by a small drum brake within the rear brake is not self adjusting, and it is worth checking and adjusting it if this hasn't been done for a while.

As mentioned above, I tend to slacken the cable first, adjust the parking brake, and then reset the cable, however, I would be interested to hear how others deal with them.
 

Juddian

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The footbrake on both front and rear axles, being disc brakes is entirely self adjusting.

The parking brake, operated by a small drum brake within the rear brake is not self adjusting, and it is worth checking and adjusting it if this hasn't been done for a while.

As mentioned above, I tend to slacken the cable first, adjust the parking brake, and then reset the cable, however, I would be interested to hear how others deal with them.

I haven't had to touch the cable on any of my 4 x 124's, maybe i should have.
And yes i too nearly always end up slackening off before managing to adjust the right way, if i remember they arn't mirror image side to side either.

I meant to make a note of which way and put the note somewhere useful, as usual i forgot moments after and have now forgotten which way to adjust..:Oops:

I recently fitted new shoes (don't want to do that again in a hurry) and discs/drums (yes new pads too obviously) to the rear end, i loosely adjusted and then took the car up the road and applied the parking brake gently a few times to bed them in.
Allowed them to cool and then finely adjusted, i now have a superb parking brake that is fully on in about 3 clicks.

The old shoes had a very grooved centre section obviously caused by rust on the drum, and would have been worse than useless with the new drums.
 

turbopete

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The footbrake on both front and rear axles, being disc brakes is entirely self adjusting.

The parking brake, operated by a small drum brake within the rear brake is not self adjusting, and it is worth checking and adjusting it if this hasn't been done for a while.

As mentioned above, I tend to slacken the cable first, adjust the parking brake, and then reset the cable, however, I would be interested to hear how others deal with them.

to do the job correctly you either have to do it this way or at least check the levers are fully back to their stops. this means stripping the drums from the hub, so for a general tweak rather than a service/overhall of the handbrake shoes, this is the way id do it. the correct method of adjusting the shoes is to tighten them on the adjusters till they 'lock' then slowly slacken them off again untill the desired clearance is obtained. this meand the shoes are correctly centred and saves driving up the road etc then having to re-remove the wheels to get the final adjustment right
 
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harpersimon

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Adjustment

Sorry to bump an old thread - but it seems to be what I need to do - my parkingbrake is fairly useless - so assuming I can adjust a bit without removing the disc/hub from the rear (i.e. is there access from the back or something, or do I HAVE to remove the hub to adjust?)
 

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Sorry to bump an old thread - but it seems to be what I need to do - my parkingbrake is fairly useless - so assuming I can adjust a bit without removing the disc/hub from the rear (i.e. is there access from the back or something, or do I HAVE to remove the hub to adjust?)

In your brake drum you have one off set hole, you just use a flat bladed screw driver in and flip the cogged wheel around till it locks the wheel,the back off a few clicks so the the wheel turns freely do not take the drum off,,it is only off to show the wheel to adjust
 

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Number_Cruncher

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If you have steel wheels, you only need to remove 1 wheel bolt to perform the adjustment. If alloys are fitted, then, owing to their greater thickness, you need to take the wheel off.

The spec is to adjust the brakes up using the wheel as Malcolm identified until the wheel is locked, and then back off 5 to 6 clicks.
 

White230CE

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I have a related question please:

On my W124 coupe, when I set the parking brake, the car still rocks (sometimes forward, sometimes backwards) before settling down. Is it because it is gearbox Park that is keeping it stationary rather than the parking brake itself, and if so, does that mean that the parking brake needs adjustment as described in this thread?

Thanks.
 

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