Here we go again: Today I learned my alternator is broken..

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Conor

Conor

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Or pop it in the dish washer if it shot,, it wont hurt it ha ha No its a job for a brush and a little white spirits .But to re con the alternator your self would be possible but the slip rings are hard to replace and also the bearing will need pressing in . I did have some parts to do my starter motor form an ebay seller, if you need parts i can find his listing for you.He had parts for all alternators and starter motors.

Thanks Dreamer. That is very kind.

It. Might be the case that it just needs new brushes.. But with 190k miles on the car.. I think a fill. Refurb is wise, while it's out.

...and I don't even have a dishwasher anyway :(
 
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..Right, quick update.

  • Alternator out and on sitting room floor :D
  • Remember my cheap Silverline hex keys, which I should have binned?! I think I might have slightly sheared a hex key. Will use Halfords Advanced to see if can be saved. Otherwise i'll get a hex saver tool thing.
  • It's filthy so will need a clean.
  • I have been able to read off some numbers from the plastic casing
    • The OEM number I already had: A 013 154 56 02
    • The Bosch part number: 0121 715 014 and also some other markings: "LI-K -> 14M2.5"
    • 180 in big letters. Assume that's 180 Amps.
    • Made in Great Britain :)
  • The WIS document calls the alternator by name "14V/180A BOSCH"
Does anybody know how I can identify the correct refurb kit to get from eBay. I imagine there is a lot of overlap, but I want the correct one first time :)

The hex I think I sheared is the one in the recessed portion of the plastic, by the electrical connector..

Did I say it was dirty :laugh

IMG_20200214_142731.jpg IMG_20200214_141841.jpg
 
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Another update....

I have opened up the alternate. slip ring contacts devoured. I don't think the brushes were bad actually, looked a decent enough length. I broke one taking off the voltage regulator though.

The unit is absolutely filthy and coating of oil all over it...due to the leak in a previous life. WD-40 ain't gonna cut it, i'd say.

I'm wondering if I can use my gunk degreaser to was it down and then perhaps spray plenty of WD-40 after, displace water. How do the pro's clean them when refurbishing?
  • I have been able to identify the correct voltage regulator on eBay.
  • I haven't been able to find a direct match (via part numbers) for repair kit, but this seems like might do the job? :shrug
I am going to go and buy this bearing / gear puller tomorrow, to pull the bearing off from over the slip ring... then I will be able to start work on the slip ring removal.

So annoying working with this thing. Gloves filthy and every tool I touch gets filthy, I'm going to need to clean all the tools after.. :geek:

IMG_20200214_194312.jpg IMG_20200214_194322.jpg
 
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You either live alone or Mrs Conner is away or you're very very stupid brave :rolleyes::rolleyes:
and you need more/bigger news papers :D:D

Alone.. Bliss. No Airbnb guests this weekend either.. :)

Haha, yea. I was thinking that half way through but i'll just clean the floor with degreaser :/ The paper is annoying.

At least I rolled back the rug :D
 
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Very useful link:

I just found this supplier: Wood Auto < https://www.woodauto.com > where you can find the alternator in your car.. but more importantly, it will link you to the component parts, which is verrry useful!

https://www.woodauto.com/product/ALT10599 -> Click "Cross reference", then you will some items with a "BOM" link.
 

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" I'm going to need to clean all the tools after " is the very first thing I was taught to do.

" slip ring contacts devoured " any chance of a photo of this.
Thanks
 
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" I'm going to need to clean all the tools after " is the very first thing I was taught to do.

" slip ring contacts devoured " any chance of a photo of this.
Thanks

Hey Matt.. Look at the first photo in the last post with photos... That's the slip ring.
 
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Petrol engines cars don't use clutches on the alternator as far as I'm aware.

Good, because mine flows smoothly both ways :)
 
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Look at the state of the brush in this regulator... it look like it's been melted into the case and has been that way for a while.... i'm not sure how it actually worked in that state...

vreg-mashed-comp.jpg
 
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blimey , found the problem then Conor

Yes it would appear so.. The slip ring is also buggered.

Note that I broke the broken looking brush taking off the regulator so that brush was long enough.
 
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Right.....

So I just wrecked the alternator. The set of bearing pullers I bought wouldn't fit around the alternator to push the unit out from the main case (after removing the pulley).

So, I proceeded to, despite the warning of the Westronics channel, to hammer the shaft that held the pulley. THAT METAL IS SOFT and is now significantly deformed, to the point that the nut won't go back on.

I am basically worse off than when I started.. I don't think I can use this unit and I don't even have something to send in when buying a new refurbished unit.. so a new Bosch unit is going to cost me just under £600 from ECP (including the surcharge). Oh well...

  • I'm so god damn annoyed at myself now, because I knew what I was doing was bad.
  • Goes to show in my experience anyway that a lot of the problems caused during these types of tasks are cause by use of incorrect tool.
  • It's a bit of a bummer having to fork out £600 but I don't think it would be any less if I took to a mechanic...and I now have the added value of experience and how an alternator works. And more importantly, what not to do.
Willing to swallow my pride on this one and admit that many people had advised to get somebody to refurb for me... but I was adamant I wanted to try myself.. them's the breaks. I'm sure we have all been here at some point or another and i'm happy to admit this all this as part of the learning curve :)
 
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Quick question.

My battery was on the way out anyway so I decided to pick up a new one at the weekend, with a view to installing along side my new alternator.

It is a Yuasa unit, which I believe isn't bad. That said it appears a bit shorter than the OEM unit already in the car.

Is this a deal breaker and I need return the unit or will there be a clamp or something that I can adjust to hold the battery?

The battery is Yuasa HSB013 and was suggested to me as a compatible battery from the Halfords site. It is the higher capacity and CCA of the two suggested.

Just after checking the Halfords site again, it says.. "This might not fit your car...". Wtf.

Then checking the Yuasa site, they suggest this whopper. It's a start/stop unit and priced high, the one I got was £88 with a trade card. Where do I go from here?

Thanks
Conor

Edit: I've noticed the expensive battery supports ~360k engine cranks, whereas the cheaper is 50k. That should explain price difference?
 


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