High Output alternator in my 84' 300D turbo *pix*

flakko

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Hi everybody! watsup its my first post here, and im in a bit of a pickle.

Im into car stereos and i need to put in a high output alternator in my car. I bought this 65a bosche alternator to be modded into a 200a. I am planning to run 1/0 gauge wire to set this new alternator up and everything looked fine until i looked under the hood and found that these alternators don't hook up like a normal alternator. It seems that there is kind of a wiring harness to hook up the alternator to the electrical system.

pict076401ez.jpg

The red circled area on the picture is where the harness is connected. Now first off, does anyone know where these wires lead to? and 2nd is there any way to mod the casing so i can run 1/0 guge wire and not cause any complications?
 

turnipsock

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What's on the unit in the car?

What you have there is a standard alternator connection.
 
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flakko

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turnipsock said:
What's on the unit in the car?

What you have there is a standard alternator connection.

lol yea unfortunately.

so where does the connection go to under the hood? the engine? the battery? ground?

is there a schematic i can look at?

sorry for all these questions hehe
 

paulcallender

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Both big ones are B+, and are joined, apparently, somewhere. One of these goes to the battery, one goes to the ignition switch. The little one is D+ and goes to the warning light. The earth is done using a short earth strap to the engine.

I am intrigued how much current you need for your stereo. 200A at 12V is 2400W, right? That would be a continuous figure, so given that there is a battery too, you could be able to supply a peak of around 400-500A, which would give you 4800-6000W of power?
 
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flakko

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paulcallender said:
Both big ones are B+, and are joined, apparently, somewhere. One of these goes to the battery, one goes to the ignition switch. The little one is D+ and goes to the warning light. The earth is done using a short earth strap to the engine.

pict07646vv.jpg


like that rite? now is there any way to run 1/0 gauge wire from V+ from the alt to the battery and ignition? and for the voltage regulator and the warning light its okay to keep the stock wires, and just fuse them rite?

I am intrigued how much current you need for your stereo. 200A at 12V is 2400W, right? That would be a continuous figure, so given that there is a battery too, you could be able to supply a peak of around 400-500A, which would give you 4800-6000W of power?

haha well.... im only running a good 1800w rite now,and may do Comps in the future. im just upgrading my electrical system for the most "extreme" situations. Cant have enough amperage rite? ;)
 

paulcallender

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For 1800W you don't need to uprate the alternator, becuase you could allow the battery to take the load and discharge, during high power scenarios. Its more important to focus on the batteries, than the alternator. Most people would never run their stereo beyond something like 200-300W, continiously.

I'd suggest a deep cycling battery, located as near as possible to the amplifier. But thats not so important becuase you can use thicker cabling. I am assuming you've gone beyond the point of preserving the full loadspace and have started to allow sub-bass boxes, etc to intrude into the boot. Are you planning on keeping the rear seats too?
 
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flakko

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paulcallender said:
For 1800W you don't need to uprate the alternator, becuase you could allow the battery to take the load and discharge, during high power scenarios. Its more important to focus on the batteries, than the alternator. Most people would never run their stereo beyond something like 200-300W, continiously.

I'd suggest a deep cycling battery, located as near as possible to the amplifier. But thats not so important becuase you can use thicker cabling.

ummm i dunno bout that one lol im pushing quite a lot of wattage. and when the battery discharges, how am i gonna recharge it? a 55a alternator wont be able to handle the load i dont think. So is there a possible way to hook 1/0 gauge up to this alternator to the battery/ignition switch?

I am assuming you've gone beyond the point of preserving the full loadspace and have started to allow sub-bass boxes, etc to intrude into the boot. Are you planning on keeping the rear seats too?

install52hh.jpg

install44mp.jpg


and nope im just takin up the trunk space :) i cant take out the seats cuz theres a gas tank in the way lol. im tryin to keep this car as stock as possible.
 

paulcallender

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It's not so important how big the alternator is. A 10A alternator could recharge your battery, it would just take longer. There's nothing special about stereos, its just another load on the alternator, so if you turn it down, then you will draw much less current and the alternator can provide enough current, over and above the loads on it at the time, to recharge the batteries.

Why not fit a mains hookup and transformer, as in motorcaravans?

It looks like you've already compromised your installation, because you have a saloon, not an estate. Therefore you have denied yourself a lot of space for expanding things. That looks like a 10" sub, or is it 12"? Oh well!
 
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flakko

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paulcallender said:
It's not so important how big the alternator is. A 10A alternator could recharge your battery, it would just take longer. There's nothing special about stereos, its just another load on the alternator, so if you turn it down, then you will draw much less current and the alternator can provide enough current, over and above the loads on it at the time, to recharge the batteries.

exactly, rite now my 55a alternator has a hard time keeping up with my power needs, with the car on. if i just get a bigger battery, there really wont be any difference. IMO a deep cycle battery is used only to play music or have your lights on when the car is turned off. and when the car is turned on, the alt recharges the battery.

It looks like you've already compromised your installation, because you have a saloon, not an estate. Therefore you have denied yourself a lot of space for expanding things. That looks like a 10" sub, or is it 12"? Oh well!

its a 12" . haha im revamping my system rite now to allow me to use 3/4 of the trunk space not 1/4 like i currently am rite now.
 

mlc

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Flakko,

Can an old man give a much younger man a little advise?

If you plan to play the music so loud that you are at risk of flattening the battery with a standard alternator the only thing you can be assured of is hearing damage :(

I spent my time at Univ in the 70's listening to Punk too loud, and today I spend my life saying "pardon" cos I cant tell what people are saying, enjoy the MB but dont damage the hearing of yourself and your passnegers!

Mark.
 
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flakko

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mlc said:
Flakko,

Can an old man give a much younger man a little advise?

If you plan to play the music so loud that you are at risk of flattening the battery with a standard alternator the only thing you can be assured of is hearing damage :(

I spent my time at Univ in the 70's listening to Punk too loud, and today I spend my life saying "pardon" cos I cant tell what people are saying, enjoy the MB but dont damage the hearing of yourself and your passnegers!

Mark.

exactly! thats why i need a higher output alternator.

I do not play my music loud all of the time. if you are worried about me disturbing others, i turn my music down at stoplights. My music is My music. I want the ability to GET loud when the time calls for it. I want to compete in SPL competitions, win some trophys.

so can you please tell me if what i want to do to my electrical system is possible?
 

paulcallender

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I think Flakko is already affected, because he cannot hear mine and mlc's advice......
 
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flakko

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paulcallender said:
I think Flakko is already affected, because he cannot hear mine and mlc's advice......

I can read perfectly i know ill kill my hearing. when i see its taking a toll on me, i will tone my system down but for right now.... i just want to know if it is possible what i want to do to my alternator!! please?
 

kiwi_bloke

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Deep Cycle

Well, IMHO i think a deep cycle battery would be sufficient as well. The way i understand is a deep cycle is capable of handling alot more aggressive loads than a standard battery and for a longer time span.

The simple thing would be to turn your stereo / amps off and let the car run for a minute or so before turning it off.

Nice and simple. But of course you might want to go down the road that requires a little more hard work ;)
 

cobra427

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Each to his own etc... but I need to be educated....

Why do you need more than say 300W clean amp power in a car.
Is it just gear lust man-thing? (which I can sympathise with being an audio geek)

I luv loud music (my studio goes well beyond 105dB down to 25Hz ) but I always have a chuckle at the criusers that drive round our town with thud/slap music eminating from their motors... I swear I see the car slowing down on each kick drum beat...
 

paulcallender

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It depends what type of music you're into. It makes a big difference, if you have a sub-bass with 10" or 12" speaker. This needs rather a disproportionate amount of amplification, to move the required amount of air. So, a typical setup might be (all peak power outputs quoted):

160W from head unit
300W from 2 channel amplifier, driving rear 'fill' speakers
500W from a 1 channel amplificer driving a 12" sub-bass.

Of course, RMS outputs (which give a way more accurate comparison, between different makes/models of amplifier and speaker, etc) would be far less, for example a 300W peak power amp could be 130W RMS. But that doesn't sound so good, to your mates, right?

I agree, anything more than that is merely adding excessive volume, which your ear would compensate for by closing up a little. Haven't you noticed how after listening to loud music, for the few minutes after its switched off, you can't hear properly?

So, anything more is for the 'benefit' of those outside the car, not in it.
 


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