How to replace rear electric window regulator W210

brandwooddixon

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At some time or another you may find that your rear electric window(s) stop working. Usually this is due to failure of the pulley system rather than the motor itself. MB tried to improve the situation by redesigning the motor and pulley system as time went by.

You are advised to check with your dealer whether your regulator utilizes the old or the new motor engagement, as if it uses the old one then you will need a new motor as well (MB can only supply the new system). This is easily determined from your VIN.

Parts:
A210 7301646 offside rear regulator - no motor - approx: £70 from MB
A210 7301546 nearside rear regulator - no motor.

4x 3/16" Pop rivets.

Tools:

Pop riveter.
5mm or 3/16" drill bit and drill.
Sticky tape.
Phillips and flat head screw driver medium size.

First we need to remove the door card. This is held in place by 6 pop type clips around left, right and bottom edges; two failrly chunky, phillips screws and a lip along the top edge which clips in by the window rubber. See the picture below.
3687954974_aa5a4ef0e6.jpg
 
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brandwooddixon

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Gentlly ease the bottom of the door card out an inch or so, and starting at the end nearest the door lock lift the card up so that it is realeased from the half dozen or so clips along the top edge.

You'll only be able to move it a few inches from the door as the trim will be held back by the electric connection to the window switch. Reach inside and release the connector.
Similarly, prise the courtesy light out of the bottom of the door card and disconnect it.
You don't need to disconnect the lock release cable, but you should now be able to swing the door card away from the door and place it resting against the door itself where its ia out of your way.

If your window has failed in the down position then the next step is easier.
You'll see that there is a white block that slides into a channel along the bottom edge of the window glass. This is held in place by a black U shaped clip that fits up through the bottom of the channel and keeps the square block from sliding too far. Use a flat baded scrrewdriver to push each end in towards the block and remove this.

Next. Firmly grip the glass and slide it closed if possible. Fix it in place by afixing some tape to the glass on one side and over the top of the door to the other.

Carefully drill out the four rivets shown below. I drilled enough metal away to use a small chisel to cut the heads off myself.

3687151511_a6ac6ef22e.jpg
 
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brandwooddixon

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Disconnect the large connector from the motor and remove the motor and regulator.

Here is what my old system and the new regulaor look like. Not the subtle differences in the regulators.

3687151791_7636739902.jpg


Using a T30 torx bit remove the two screws holding the motor to the regulator. Rotate the motor assembly about 30 degrees as shown to remove it.

Fitment is a reversal of this process.

You'll need to use four 3/16" pop rivets to hold the new replacement in place.

Don't forget to apply some white grease to the moving parts before fitting it and a little silicon lubricant to the glass guide channels.

It is easier to locate the white block into the channel on the glass if it is at the bottom position.

Don't forget to fit the black clip.

Oh and don't forget to ensure that the door locking "knob" is through the hole in the top of the card before you give it the finla push down along the top edge when refitting.

Lastly reset the window by holding the switch in the closed position for as couple of seconds (you may hear a quiet click) and also in the fully open position.
 

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