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HP Diesel pump woes

Discussion in 'Engine, Drivetrain, Fuel and Exhaust' started by mercedes13156, Dec 27, 2012.

  1. mercedes13156

    mercedes13156 Senior Member

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    Hi there,

    I've got a W203 C220CDi and the HP fuel pump is leaking a bit. There's a smell of fuel in the cabin when I stop with the engine running. I'm not too confident that I'd be able to refurbish it myself, so I went to Euro Car Parts and they said they had one for a 270 CDi and one for an A Class diesel 170 CDi in stock and that they were effectively all the same part, despite having different part numbers. They are all exactly the same shape and specification and deliver fuel to the rail at the required rate and pressure.

    The Merc dealer told me a different story and said that I must use the one on his system or suffer the consequences and I'll have to wait until one comes from Germany after the New Year.

    My question is, could I take one for a 270 and expect it not to blow the arse out of the system? Similarly, would the one for the A170 fit the bill?
     
  2. curious

    curious Senior Member

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    My fuel pump starting leaking on my W203 c220cdi and, after getting rediculous prices for a replacement decided to have a go myself.

    I don't know where your's is leaking but mine was from between the backing plate and the main body (bolts had come loose).
    I got a service kit froma Bosch service centre (approx £15) and replaced a few 'O' rings without having to completely dismantle it all. That was 50,000 miles ago.

    If you're capable enough to replace the pump you're capable enough to do what I did.
     
  3. OP
    mercedes13156

    mercedes13156 Senior Member

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    Mine's is leaking from one of the heads. I've got a procedure from the forum, but I'm not confident that I can it. I don't have a workshop.
     
  4. Rockall

    Rockall Senior Member

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    All you need is the kitchen table for a short while!!:)

    Regards

    Bill
     
  5. Frontstep

    Frontstep Senior Member

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    Those little head bolts can be very tight, but mines done about 5,000 miles since I cheered it up with a seal kit
    I think corrosion gets into the heads, I rubbed mine flat and shiny.
     
  6. OP
    mercedes13156

    mercedes13156 Senior Member

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    OK. If I go for replacing the seals, would it be wise to apply a light smear of gasket goo on the heads, or is that a really daft idea?
     
  7. lwbnick

    lwbnick Senior Member

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    Why not try a GSF and see if they have the right one in stock?
     
  8. OP
    mercedes13156

    mercedes13156 Senior Member

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    If I could spend £30 refurbing it I would. I think I'll give it a go. If it doesn't work I've lost £30. if not I get to spend about £300.
     
  9. OP
    mercedes13156

    mercedes13156 Senior Member

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    Going back to the original question, anyone know if the A Class 170 or the C Class 270 HP diesel pump will work properly on a C220 CDi?
     
  10. rpe2

    rpe2 Senior Member

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    They have different MB part numbers so I'd guess they are different in some way.

    Looking at the ECP website there are different part no's also.

    Would therefore summise that they are different.

    If you asked the laddie in ECP to warrant that fitting the 'wrong' part will do no further damage, he may change his line.

    As above, refurb it for pence, or ask ECP/ GSF for the correct part.
     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2012
  11. OP
    mercedes13156

    mercedes13156 Senior Member

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    Point taken. Off to buy the refurb kit.

    Thanks to everyone who contributed!
     
  12. mersum1es

    mersum1es Senior Member

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  13. OP
    mercedes13156

    mercedes13156 Senior Member

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    Hi again,

    The seal kit didn't work. Turns out that the whole pump was goosed. The main rotor inside was worn and I've exchanged it for a fully reconditioned pump. I've put it all back together again and now it won't start. The two plastic pipes are in the right holes, (there's only one way to fit them) and the steel pipe to the rail is nice and tight.

    When I crank it over, there's air bubbles going into the pump and when it stops, the air bubbles go the other way. I've cranked it over about 30 times and nothing. It won't catch at all. There's about 2 gallons in the tank and the fuel light hasn't come on yet.

    What am I doing wrong?
     
  14. Silver_Star

    Silver_Star Senior Member

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    If it is all fitted correctly just keep turning it over and it should take once the air has been purged. It may take 30+ seconds of cranking.....however keep the cranking continuous don't stop till it takes.
     
  15. OP
    mercedes13156

    mercedes13156 Senior Member

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    It won't crank for 30 seconds straight. It has an auto start function which cuts the starter after about 10 seconds, even if you hold the key on.
     
  16. Silver_Star

    Silver_Star Senior Member

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    Do you have a vacuum extractor? may be worth trying to disconnect the fuel line that feeds the rail and try and pull diesel through.

    Hopefully an indie may be along to advise on this shortly.
     
  17. yorkshire1

    yorkshire1 Senior Member

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    easistart

    give it a whiff of easistart if its only residual air in the system the faster cranking,ll soon get it going and save your starter/battery too especially this cold weather
     
  18. Frontstep

    Frontstep Senior Member

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    Mine did take quite a few goes to start it but not 30.
    I did fill the pump with clean diesel first and some probably stayed in whilst fitting.
    Unless something else wrong I suggest charge battery and keep cranking.
    Don't forget to rest the starter so it doesn't overheat.
     
  19. mersum1es

    mersum1es Senior Member

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    Yep it would be good to know is the reason now that rail pressure is too low, or is it something else. I read the trick that if you unplug the rail pressure sensor, the ECU can't have knowledge about too low pressure and will start. Goes straight to the limp mode but starts nonetheless (works also if faulty pressure sensor. Edit: of course won't start if really cannot buid up enough pressure). Bubbles in fuel lines tells about problems in fueling, check the connectors of the shut down valve too. Again, fault codes/live data would be benefical...
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2013
  20. rpe2

    rpe2 Senior Member

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    Did you smear the pipes with a kittle oil before refitting to the pump
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2013

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