I have changed my atf fluid - assumption

[Smaltze]

Just changed the atf fluid on my w210.

I drained the sump with the car tilted back over night, removed the sump and cleaned it and changed the filter and gasket.

I then reattatched and put in 3l of new fluid and luckily stopped there check what i should be doing.

i didnt drain the torque converter, realise maybe i should have but to be frank i was getting a bit in over my head so decided to keep it simple (plus i forgot and i had cleaned myself up already ha). is this actually a problem?

I didnt have a dipstick and so refilled the emptied bottles with the old oil from the pan, it turns out it was exactly 3l, give or take resedue from spillage and cleaning the sump etc.

My question is is it safe to assume its at the right level now and can i drive it. i realise i should probably go to an indie or something and get it checked properly but am i ok for now.

I only used 3/6 of the bottles so id like to be done here and be able to return these remaining expensive mb bottles of atf! :lol:

cheers guys

 

[bob 6600]

Level should be OK, although if there isn't an indy nearby just buy one from ebay. You have changed less than half of the ATF which won't do any harm but isn't much of a benefit really as you have more old than new fluid in there.

What condition was the fluid in? Was the sump pan clean and no metal filings?

 

[nyx]

is there a tc drain on a 2002. thought they changed in '99

 

[Smaltze]

the fluid was pretty bad i think, there were about 3-4 decent sized filings and some grit.

There isnt the usual tc drain i thought u had to do it out of a side exit bit.

Do you think i should actually try and do the rest? i have already run the car and run through the gears not moving so is the fluid already diluted?

 

[malcolm E53 AMG]

There is no TC drain plug post 99.

Effectively you have changed 3 litres of the 7 litres in the box so 42% so you will have done some good. Changing the fluid in say another 12 months will up this to 66% unless you have an indie pump all the oil out via the cooling pipes for a complete replacement

 

[Botus]

as soon as u start any conventional auto, fluid is pumped round the box, the TC is pressurised to stop cavitation (bubbles that wear things out). With the exception of the valve block which needs to go through all possible combinations before fully mixes the oil, it will be pretty much round the box. If you have 3 bottles left drain again and refill. Then u r pretty much done.

Level wise if it was already correctly filled and you "magically" captured everything, measured well and got same amount back in all's good. At worst u will have same level but with clean oil. So can't be worse than where you started.

For good measure drive to indie and get level check done.

 

[Smaltze]

so when people normally do atf fluid changes do they only change 42% like i have?

 

[Botus]

some push a bit through the oil cooler and pipework, some older cars have a TC drain (I'd never heard of this feature on BW or GM boxes) that gets another few litres out. Other say drain out 3 litres refill with 3, then drive it a few miles and then change the oil and filter.

In my day on Jags and Rolls the 4.2 with BW66 or the 5.3 (and RR post 76)with GM400s would put out clean oil compared to half the gearbox that comes out on these nasty merc boxes !

 

[Smaltze]

well i suppose i will leave it as is then and hope there is some improvement. thanks guys

 

[onefortheroad]

I was informed the dealers drain pan twice and refil twice ,giving 85% fresh fluid.

 

[nyx]

i would drain and add again if it was my car. not expensive and just for a belt and braces approach because you don't know how old the remaining fluid is.

 

[tjamesbo]

You Can do it this way This is how I did it on mine but carefuly check the flow and return pipes to make sure its the correct side to pump out

If anyone is wondering The Instructions are similar to parrot of Dooms DIY in the DIY section additional points to note are;

Make sure the socket si tapped fully home on the Drain Plug and the Bolts securing the Sump to the Box They are known to seize and break.

Knowing this I think I will attempt to crack mine off when the Box is nice and warm after a long run

Be prepared to drill out if they break.

Basically its then as Parrot of Dooms Post but this is the additional bit;

The next step is to flush the remaining oil out.

Firstly remove the banjo bolt from the left cooler pipe attached to the bell housing. You will need a 19mm socket and ratchet. Discard the two old seals. Oil will drip from here so have a drainer ready.

make a drain pipe from an old banjo bolt that I screw in the hole. This allows the fluid to drain into a container.

When the pipe is secured start the engine and leave running for 4 mins. This allows the torque converter to drain.

then remove the pipe and re-fit the banjo bolt with new seals.

fill up the gearbox with another 3L of fluid. Put the Car in "D" with the parking brake on and allow to warm up. It can take a while! 80C is the temp to check the oil at.
Dip the sump with the dipstick with the gearbox in "N" or "P".

I need to check this procedure against my car from underneath to see if pipe and banjo are the same
Also need to get myself a spare banjo to add the drain pipe to either new from MB or from a breaker.

Hope this is clear There are piccies in the PM Post

Contact me if anyone requires the full photographic story.

Thanks to silver star for the info.