Immobiliser activated?

PJMoody

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I have a Mercedes E320, W210, 1999.

I haven’t driven it much since Christmas, and needed to jump start it in April. I did this without any problems.

When I came to use it again in May, there was no power and so the central locking didn't work. So I unlocked the car with skeleton key with the idea that I would remove the battery and charge it overnight. Before I could remove the battery the alarm went off. I couldn’t de-activate the alarm with my remote key, and locking the door didn’t have any effect either. After a struggle I managed to remove the battery (it took me about 20 mins). Once I’d done this the alarm stopped. I could hear a relay (I think) clicking away somewhere around the dash once the battery was out.

I charged the battery overnight to 14.4V, and reinstalled it. I know the car has power because the dash lights came on when I opened the door. However I can’t turn the key to start the ignition, and the steering wheel is locked. I think I’ve activated the immobiliser. The remote key won’t lock or unlock the car.

The car is in the garage. It’s an automatic and in Park, so I can’t push it. The wheels are also pointing at an awkward angle, and the steering is locked so I can’t pull the car out. My workshop manual is in the boot, but the car is parked against the back wall so I can’t open the boot to have a look (not that I hold out much hope of it yielding anything useful).

The car is getting old, and I don’t want to call out Mercedes at £110/h to be charged more than the car is worth.

I'm stuck and I don’t have any other ideas other than dismantle it and sell it for parts.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 

mersum1es

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Have you tried to point the key to the IR reciever located in door handle while remote lock/unlock (radio transmitter may be gone)? Have you tried both keys? Are you getting buzzing sound when putting key in the slot?

You can release gear selector by using pen, but if wheels locked... :(
 

Carabosse

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Your handbook may tell you how to get it out of P - on mine you have to remove the gaiter around the selector to get at the thingummy (... technical term! ;))
 

television

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The key is in 2 parts the locking operated from the batteries within and the starting circuit where the key uses the ignition switch to power the key.

If the remote is still working the ignition part could be a fault in the key.
 
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PJMoody

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I have tried both keys. Neither key will lock/unlock the car, and neither can be used to start the car.

No buzzing sound.

I'll have a look around to see if I can find a switch/lever to get the car out of park, but there is nothing obvious so I'll have to take the selector box apart.
 

television

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There is a little hole in front of the gear lever, poke a pen down and the gear shift will release
 
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PJMoody

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I've checked the fuses, and they all look OK. I can only find fuses next to the battery, are there any others ?

Mark - I'm in Aberdeen.

Why would removing the battery affect the EIS?
 
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PJMoody

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I've had another look at the car, and I am now convinced that the immobiliser is activated. How can I bypass the immobiliser?
 

teddycatkin

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I've had another look at the car, and I am now convinced that the immobiliser is activated. How can I bypass the immobiliser?

Having read all the threads and taken into account events untill now ---remove the connectors from battery wait a couple of mins -re-connect and start again-press cental locking on key fob to get it to lock and unlock-when unlocked and immobilizer off you should get ignition lights on dash and it should start
 
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