Uncle Benz
Senior Member
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2006
- Messages
- 4,325
- Reaction score
- 3,774
- Age
- 53
- Location
- West Sussex
- Your Mercedes
- Mainly Mercedes
I’ll start by apologising, I didn’t take any photos...
I had the pleasure of a very tidy S203 estate with an m271 engine this week. 58k on her, and very well kept. The owner is the father of one of my long time customers. The car came to me with some history and work carried out elsewhere. There must have been some battery issues, probably brought on by lockdown. The battery had been replaced, but an occasional red battery symbol in the cluster led to a reconditioned alternator being fitted. The battery warning persisted, but now accompanied by abs faults, auto lights offline and gearbox sticking in low gear. A key off/on cycle would clear the problem. The car had additionally had the battery earth cable replaced, to no avail. The owner came to me asking for the front SAM to be replaced. I was immediately cautious. I can count the number of front SAM’s I have replaced on the fingers of one hand. Rear SAM’s are another story. I’d need the fingers of three pairs of hands to count them...
I had a known good secondhand front SAM on the shelf, so to humour the customer I tried that first. Exactly the same. I then scoped the battery voltage, and was a little surprised to see the occasional spike of 19 volts occurring! The breaker up the road had a 2009 CLC just in with rear end damage. I grabbed the alternator from it to test, and the fault was immediately solved. Conclusion? Reconditioned Bosch alternator was the problem. It wasn’t a Mercedes service exchange unit, which is my default choice with these. I’m sure it was an isolated case, but be aware, these smart charge systems can be finicky. If you scope the battery now you can see the alternator has a “soft start”. Battery voltage drops to 11v cranking, rising to 12.3v as the engine starts. Over the next 5 seconds it climbs to 13.8v and sits there. If you apply load by switching on lights, wipers, blower, you see it immediately respond. The faulty alternator spiked to 19v on engine start, then rapidly returned to 13.8-14v, but the initial spike caused some control units to crash, and plenty of faults to be logged. It’s a miracle further damage hadn’t been caused!
The owner collected the car this morning. He insisted that I didn’t start the car before he arrived. He wanted to see with his own eyes it was actually fixed.
I had the pleasure of a very tidy S203 estate with an m271 engine this week. 58k on her, and very well kept. The owner is the father of one of my long time customers. The car came to me with some history and work carried out elsewhere. There must have been some battery issues, probably brought on by lockdown. The battery had been replaced, but an occasional red battery symbol in the cluster led to a reconditioned alternator being fitted. The battery warning persisted, but now accompanied by abs faults, auto lights offline and gearbox sticking in low gear. A key off/on cycle would clear the problem. The car had additionally had the battery earth cable replaced, to no avail. The owner came to me asking for the front SAM to be replaced. I was immediately cautious. I can count the number of front SAM’s I have replaced on the fingers of one hand. Rear SAM’s are another story. I’d need the fingers of three pairs of hands to count them...
I had a known good secondhand front SAM on the shelf, so to humour the customer I tried that first. Exactly the same. I then scoped the battery voltage, and was a little surprised to see the occasional spike of 19 volts occurring! The breaker up the road had a 2009 CLC just in with rear end damage. I grabbed the alternator from it to test, and the fault was immediately solved. Conclusion? Reconditioned Bosch alternator was the problem. It wasn’t a Mercedes service exchange unit, which is my default choice with these. I’m sure it was an isolated case, but be aware, these smart charge systems can be finicky. If you scope the battery now you can see the alternator has a “soft start”. Battery voltage drops to 11v cranking, rising to 12.3v as the engine starts. Over the next 5 seconds it climbs to 13.8v and sits there. If you apply load by switching on lights, wipers, blower, you see it immediately respond. The faulty alternator spiked to 19v on engine start, then rapidly returned to 13.8-14v, but the initial spike caused some control units to crash, and plenty of faults to be logged. It’s a miracle further damage hadn’t been caused!
The owner collected the car this morning. He insisted that I didn’t start the car before he arrived. He wanted to see with his own eyes it was actually fixed.
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