Injector seal

Sara9384

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Hi, had a problem with the Mercedes 220 CDI where the injector seal seemed to be leaking. Has been replaced but seems even worse now. When starting up there is what seems to be smoke, fumes and bits of oil coming from around the base of the injector?

Any ideas?
 

rpe2

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It's still leaking.

Was the injector seat cut so as to be clean? Was a new seal/ retaining bolt fitted?

Failing the above, if overtightened, the retaining thread may have stripped.
 
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Sara9384

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Hi Richard

New seal and retaining bolt fitted. Im not mechanically minded at all so had a mechanic do it for me! injector seat cut as to be clean..... not quite sure of this..........is this something i can do?
 

rpe2

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You'll need a cutting tool the price of which makes it a garage only job. Whereabouts are you located?
 

rpe2

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This firm have been suggested on here before.. http://www.merc-star.co.uk

Have you asked the mechanic who originally did the work to have a look?
 

Rappey69

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Im pretty mechanically minded but let a local indie reseat mine. for the 50 odd quid it was well worth it !
There are so many ways to bugger it up completely.
The bolt hole needs to be spotless else the stretch bolt will not clamp on with the required pressure.
Its something like 7nm of torque to do up then 90+90 degrees..
do you have a torque wrench that goes that low?
A lot of non mercedes garages appear to not get it right, leading to it having to be done again.
 

exeng

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There is still a chance the bottom of the injector may be damaged if it has been leaking for a while.You should ensure both a clean with no sign of burn marks and then you should be ok as for the torque figure the debate continues as the star computer i was looking at read 7nm plus 90 and that is what the tech used and no leaks.
 

Number_Cruncher

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>>the debate continues

As I've written elsewhere, if you use a standard MB bolt, it doesn't make much difference - the bolt is in it's plastic regime already after one 90 degree turn, and you aren't actually putting much more load into the bolt and joint by turning another 90 degrees.

This also means the 7Nm doesn't need to be massively accurately applied - once the bolt is in its plastic range, it's really insensitive.

If, however, you use a non-standard bolt, this happy situation is no longer true - high tensile bolts in particular will put more load into the joint, and also tend to have less plastic elengation before failure - a doubly bad situation.

I think the correct approach is to use the latest new bolts available from MB, and use the corresponding latest information from a recently updated WIS.
 


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