Inlet port shut off motor delete (CDI2)

[parkman]

Alex,

My 2004 W211 E220cdi A/Garde had a problem with limp home mode a couple of moths ago, and my ex-Mercedes garage guy fiited a new inlet port shut-off motor, and everything worked fine for a while.

He did say that the problem could come back, but he was trying a cheaper fix first.

The limp home came back today, after a fast run down the motorway, doing around 70-80 mph. When I got to the first roundabout on exiting the motorway, the kickdown didn't work, and the limp-home mode took over. I stopped the car after about 2 miles, in a layby and sat with the engine off for about 15 minutes, and when I drove off again the limp home issue had disappeared.

The car drove normally, BUT I didn't go over 50 mph, and everything seems normal again.
I have no doubt, though, that the problem will return in the near future, and I am considering doing your modification.

The only question that I have is - will it make any difference to emissions testing. The car is in Ireland, and the test goons go over board on car testing there, emissions being a big failure reason.

parkman

 

[oigle]

This is my first post so many thanks to Alex and everyone else for sharing all their very useful information in this thread.

I have a 2006 CLS 320 CDI 122K miles which seems to have the same problems that others have described as being fixed by the swirl flap delete/resistor mod. I got the CLS about 3 years ago with about 95K miles on it and I suspect it has always had this problem.

When I first got the car it probably only went into limp mode once in the first 6 months and didn't show any engine management light warning. For the first 2 ½ years the limp mode problem usually happened under strong acceleration and went into limp mode with a judder, it almost always went away just by restarting the engine. More recently the issue has happened more often, it doesn’t always resolve itself by restarting the engine and sometimes the engine management light comes on. It now also seems to get the problem from starting off and there is no judder. When it doesn’t have this particular problem the car drives fantastic, lots of power and smooth acceleration.

I’ve had 3 services done at independent Merc garages since I’ve had the car and always had any recommended jobs done but they have never mentioned a fault like the above so recently I got myself a cheap OBDII device and DashCMD on my smartphone. The error that shows up is

“p2015 intake manifold runner position sensor/switch circuit range/performance bank 1”

So I’ve come to the conclusion that the swirl flap delete/resistor mod will improve and hopefully solve my issue.

I’m not very mechanical so I’m not sure I’d trust myself to do the job correctly so I called a local independent merc garage to ask if they would do the job for me. They said they wouldn’t and they don’t recommend doing the job because they can’t guarantee that it won’t cause any issues. They also quoted £450 for replacing the motor and they suggested I go in to get the fault codes read by them.

So my question to anyone who can help is, can they recommend any garage that would do swirl flap delete work/resistor mod in the Northwest near Warrington (where I live) or near Nottingham (where I’ll be working for the next few weeks). Thanks in advance to anyone who can point me the right direction.

Not that I'm a pom and I know little of the indys in your area but you may not know there is a specialist finder listed on this forum http://www.mercedesspecialistfinder.co.uk/
Might help.
Ian.

 

[John Laidlaw]

MB tech Warrington are the guys for you

 

[PipeNSlippers]

Hi Guys,

I'm looking to do the resistor mod on my Jeep GC 2.7 CRD (ML270 engine) and I've located (I think!) the swirl flap motor under the inlet manifold and the plug that goes into it. My question is where is the button to release the plug? With such limited access it's almost impossible to see/feel how the plug disconnects. Does anyone have pics of the plug once removed (mine's a D shaped plug)? Ideally I'd like to do it without having to remove the entire inlet manifold and mess about with gaskets etc.

Thanks in advance!

 

[EireJames]

.........

The only question that I have is - will it make any difference to emissions testing. The car is in Ireland, and the test goons go over board on car testing there, emissions being a big failure reason.

parkman

the smoke test for diesels is both primitive & lenient, nothing to worry about.

 

[knowlep]

Stepper motor connector wiring / resistor

Hi,
I'm about to tackle the swirl flap removal and blank the holes. I've already done the EGR mod months ago and it's been fine since but I'm fed up with the oil running down the block.
The only thing I'm not clear on is which / how many wires run to the stepper motor connector and therefore which to put the 4.7k resistor between. Could you explain in a bit more detail with colours etc. I want to be clear in advance of doing the job.
Thanks in advance.

 

[om613]

Hi,
I'm about to tackle the swirl flap removal and blank the holes. I've already done the EGR mod months ago and it's been fine since but I'm fed up with the oil running down the block.
The only thing I'm not clear on is which / how many wires run to the stepper motor connector and therefore which to put the 4.7k resistor between. Could you explain in a bit more detail with colours etc. I want to be clear in advance of doing the job.
Thanks in advance.

I've just done this, so it's fresh in my mind.
The motor / plug has 3 wires.
The hardest part is accessing the plug on mine! A 5 min job.

Push the resistor in the plug, bridging the two connections that aren't brown.
Pulling back the sheathing is easy and lets you identify the wires colours.

 

[knowlep]

Connector wiring

Top man....thanks for the details.

 

[soup nazi]

Hi Chaps
Well I replaced my manifold back in April 2011. Here I am 5 years later and 55,000km further down the road and its leaking again. WOW that didn't last long. Anyway I have cleaned up my old manifold removed the swirl flaps, all I need to do now is plug the holes and fit it.

Has anyone who has done this used a sealant on the 3/8 BSP plugs or do they seal without sealant?

SN

 

[oigle]

I think I would use a little STAG or something similar. Don't want any little oil stains appearing.

Ian.

 

[miggit]

So what am I doing wrong?

I've deleted the swirl flaps and put it all back together, taken it for a run, and almost instant limp mode Plugged in the next to useless MBII tool and finally managed to get P0008 and P000C, which I understand are caused by the swirl flap motor.

I've removed the resistor and put some solder on it to try and thicken up the contact area, test run still in limp mode

Then out of desperation plugged in the flap motor, which started twitching away, went for another run and at first.... solved, followed by limp mode again.. when I got back and looked the flap motor was in the open position but the twitching had stopped and it was solid... I assume that is the problem, something's jambed inside. Turn off and the arm on the motor will move again

So what am I doing wrong? I've tried to fit a 4k7 resistor between the 2 wires that aren't brown and P0008+P000C ? I'm now at my wits end and would have shot the car over a month ago if I owned a gun! I did at one stage manage to extinguish the P0008 code, but I can't get rid of the P000C and every time I clear the fault codes, it still shows them ? iCarsoft fault? HELP!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[PSDCampervan]

Hi All from across the pond, I drive a 2005 MB E320 CDI w/ I6 OM648.961 & CDI3 control unit (USA variant) & am dealing w/ DTC in DAS:
2513-001 Check component M55 (Inlet port shutoff motor). Positioner signals fault. Current and stored
As others have reported, this is accompanied by 3K rev limit of engine & reduced power when accelerating in 5th gear but car does gradually accelerate to tolerable cruising speeds on at or near WOT. I came across this thread & was delighted to try this resistor trick to spoof CDI3 so code would clear. I used a .5V 4.7Kohm resistor to bridge red & grey wires on M55's plug as described however it resulted in a blown 15A fuse after KOEON that then triggered a cascade of CDI3 codes (I think a total of 5 or 6 were set) related to EGR positioner & sensor, boost tube sensor signal interruptions, & a Coolant low visit workshop message in IC. These all cleared easily once fuse was replaced & resistor removed but horrified me initially when they appeared suddenly. The original code for M55 cleared but was replaced by DTC:
2530-004 Check component M55 (Inlet port shutoff motor). Signal line is interrupted. Current and stored
This code cleared once plug was reattached to M55 but original code set again after warming up engine. I know this thread was started to address DTCs for CDI2 related to this issue but I thought it'd be worth a try... how different can it be, right? The pierburg motor that is installed on underside of intake manifold looks different than some I have seen in OM612s, 13s, & 42s & by different I mean it has a metal actuator arm & it's rheostat seems beefy when it recoils from closed to open which got me thinking that perhaps a stronger resistor might be required for this motor to achieve desired effect.

Unfortunately I haven't discovered any threads related to this issue dedicated to OM648 on any forums I've visited & I'm not willing to experiment further without supporting documented success as I don't want to jeopardize my DD. I can clear the code by disconnecting intake linkage however MPGs suffer slightly as a result but acceleration is more important to me at this stage due to frequently having to merge into highway speed (70-80mph) traffic safely in 10 seconds or less LOL ....just thought I'd share my experience in case anybody else in my situation is looking for solutions as I encountered barriers to success in my quest. Thank-you in advance for any & all comments & suggestions.

 

[miggit]

Hi there, I forgot about this thread!

I sorted my car out in the end, after having the useless garage look at it, I took it over to Alex Crow and we did some digging..... the car that I had brought with a service from a dealer had a very blocked air filter...So blocked that it imploded

Having fitted a new one it returned to normal.. while I was there we fitted a plug in resistor that I had made to delete the swirl flap motor, and it worked perfectly... However, during all the faffing about getting to this stage I had brought some more resistors which were bigger... I used a 4.7K ohm or 4k70 ohm 1 watt resistor, which has worked well without issues, the smaller 1/4 watt resistors are so small that I questioned whether I was getting a decent contact in the socket.

 

[jimson]

The return spring on the M55 will hold the flaps open, assuming everything is mechanically connected OK and the motor is not jammed.

Hello mate is there any option to test this m55 motor on the manifold I strip off the manifold and motor from my ML 270 CDI
2005 its seem manifold look good only the 3 cylinder inside the seal face is chop little bit and I think need a new kit seal all manifold. Interested the flaps was in position open from the spring on the m55 motor and I don't have a power to engine but what I spot is the EGR valve is shut of close position and no sign of any carbon soot builds in the manifold only just oil like a grease on the walls of manifold
I'm wandering what cause to put the EGR valve in close position I try to make a vaccum with hose with air but the valve not respond I'm wait the vaccum pump to arrive this days so more strong vaccum I hope force the valve to open the diaphragm inside the valve the same situation the valve no present of carbon soot again just burning oil
I hope have some respond to this situation
Thank you in advice

 

[jimson]

Hello mate is there any option to test this m55 motor on the manifold I strip off the manifold and motor from my ML 270 CDI
2005 its seem manifold look good only the 3 cylinder inside the seal face is chop little bit and I think need a new kit seal all manifold. Interested the flaps was in position open from the spring on the m55 motor and I don't have a power to engine but what I spot is the EGR valve is shut of close position and no sign of any carbon soot builds in the manifold only just oil like a grease on the walls of manifold
I'm wandering what cause to put the EGR valve in close position I try to make a vaccum with hose with air but the valve not respond I'm wait the vaccum pump to arrive this days so more strong vaccum I hope force the valve to open the diaphragm inside the valve the same situation the valve no present of carbon soot again just burning oil
I hope have some respond to this situation
Thank you in advice

Hello Alex today I replace the intake manifold and M65 motor on my ML 250 CDI 2005
I take for a ride and for me is good boost on the lower gear I think but the problem that I spot is when the engine running and car is on parking gear whe I pull the throttle valve I didn't see any movement of the arm of the flaps connected to the motor ???? Or they maybe work in mode when the car is running
Can you tell me how to be sure the motor moving flaps also I'm not sure the EGR valve is moving as well as before I clean up , when pull the trotle before the valve didn't open when I remove the EGR
When I clean and force to open with vaccum pump I see the problem is not from the valve I check the hose as well and they hold vaccum for a 30-1 min
I try later again to test the car as before didn't have any power the engine
I hope u come back to me with u respond and advice how to find if the motor working and the EGR valve is open to circulate the exhaust gases
Thank u Atanas

 

[jimson]

Alex,

My 2004 W211 E220cdi A/Garde had a problem with limp home mode a couple of moths ago, and my ex-Mercedes garage guy fiited a new inlet port shut-off motor, and everything worked fine for a while.

He did say that the problem could come back, but he was trying a cheaper fix first.

The limp home came back today, after a fast run down the motorway, doing around 70-80 mph. When I got to the first roundabout on exiting the motorway, the kickdown didn't work, and the limp-home mode took over. I stopped the car after about 2 miles, in a layby and sat with the engine off for about 15 minutes, and when I drove off again the limp home issue had disappeared.

The car drove normally, BUT I didn't go over 50 mph, and everything seems normal again.
I have no doubt, though, that the problem will return in the near future, and I am considering doing your modification.

The only question that I have is - will it make any difference to emissions testing. The car is in Ireland, and the test goons go over board on car testing there, emissions being a big failure reason.

parkman

Hello Alex today I replace the intake manifold and M65 motor on my ML 250 CDI 2005
I take for a ride and for me is good boost on the lower gear I think but the problem that I spot is when the engine running and car is on parking gear whe I pull the throttle valve I didn't see any movement of the arm of the flaps connected to the motor ???? Or they maybe work in mode when the car is running
Can you tell me how to be sure the motor moving flaps also I'm not sure the EGR valve is moving as well as before I clean up , when pull the trotle before the valve didn't open when I remove the EGR
When I clean and force to open with vaccum pump I see the problem is not from the valve I check the hose as well and they hold vaccum for a 30-1 min
I try later again to test the car as before didn't have any power the engine
I hope u come back to me with u respond and advice how to find if the motor working and the EGR valve is open to circulate the exhaust gases
Thank u Atanas

A moment ago
Reply

 

[Hugobears]

3x wires, one will be brown or mainly brown, connect the resistor between the other 2x.

Hi Alex just seen this post I'm assuming this is the plug that goes onto the flap servo itself mine is c270 cdi 2003/4 so would this be applicable to mine thanks

 

[oigle]

Wrong mod for your engine. Look at post by dieselman for your motor. Look at http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/index.php?threads/disabling-egr.68928/
Unfortunately dieselman has had his diagram removed. I don't have a copy. Maybe someone else does.

Ian.

 

[Wighty]

Hi Alex just seen this post I'm assuming this is the plug that goes onto the flap servo itself mine is c270 cdi 2003/4 so would this be applicable to mine thanks

You would be better ringing Alex Crow Mercedes , I don't think he has been on the forum for some years .

 

[Dragonml]

Hi
Can i please ask about this mod.
I took manifold off today 3 flaps are in 2 flaps are missing and happy inside the cylinder head whole lot manifold was nicely blowing out .
Will need to fish them out.
Manifold had costic bath and its nice and clean.
What i wanted to ask is,i have removed 3 remaining flaps from manifold and connecting rod.
And it looks like there is a tipe of bush etc where we would normaly tap for blanking bolts? Rod guide of how ever to call it.
Do this need to come out?
With them in, it looks like m12 would do but if removed then maybe m16.
And how do we remove this bushing.
Dont know how to post photos on to forum.
Thank you