Inlet port shut off motor delete (CDI2)

[Doug1234]

Hello Gentlemans.

After spending hours of reading this forum I think a found something that is close to my issue. I would like to ask you for some help. Im not a jeep owner but I have the same engine in my car OM642. One day my car started to jerking when pulling the throttle pedal so I found out that the turbo actuator could be the issue I resoldered the two problem contacts and the found the info about the resistro mod. I triyed the resistor mod but for the first time no succes, the car drove but only for 50% of power no limp mode because the kickdown worked but the motor was very lazy. When I removed the resistor and made a test drive the car was with full force. So second time I tried another resistor and made a test drive and the car stayed with 100% power and I personally think it had better and smooth running, but after one hour of enjoyable driving and engine check symbol appeared and car went to to limp mode (faulst 2514,2526,2530,2527 appeared). So i removed the resistor and putted everything back to defaul nothing happened, engine check still on the dash. So I desided to check the fuses and found that fuse no43 is blewn - 15A. When I replace it car started to work no limp mode cleared the faults and no one appeared again. Before I tryied the resistor mod I didnot get any fault regarding the swirl flaps, you was curious to try it. So my question is could the resistor cause the fuse no43 to blow? If yes why?

My 06 Jeep with the om642 will blow fuse 16 which is the ASD relay (auto shutdown relay) if the resistor manages to have any part of its metal pins touch any metal ie earth itself out.
It also managed to blow the fuse when I changed the resistor when doing a fuel filter change a while back.
I had to replace the small plastic box it sits in as the engine heat had made it brittle so replaced resistor at the same time , ignition off key out but engine had only just been started to check filter not leaking so I don't know maybe not gone to sleep ??? , anyway I now disconnect battery when doing any work under bonnet.
Oh also had about ten or more codes for everything imaginable on my icarsoft reader. Also the auto start (turn ignition key and let go and it starts within a few seconds or stops cranking ) will not function, it will just keep cranking until you turn key off if the fuse has blown.

 

[Alex Craig]

Thank you very much for the post and information I have carried this Mod out today after I had blown a 2 genuine replacement Maf sensors and it's worked a treat EGR and swirl flap motor Mod as well and now the Maf mod and the car is back to running and driving fantastic thank you again

 

[Botus]

we ought to have this at the end


Fit a metal film resistor 0.6w 4.7k ohm on swirl flap motor wiring plug, between Pins 2 and 3 (centre two of the four pins) connecting the red/green wire and the grey wire.

 

[Botus]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-7K-Ohm...187680?hash=item4b74723020:g:vMYAAOSwsXVZZjAe

 

[Jay Cartay]

So on my W639 Vito V6, can I do this mod at the plug for the inlet port shutoff motor in the engine bay? I've been trying to do the job properly and replace the motor but it's been hell. There's literally no room to work in the Vito bay and now one of the bolts on the turbo manifold to exhaust has gotten damaged due to the socket slipping off. There's pretty much no way if getting it off.

If this mod can be used with no I'll effects to sort it then that will do for me. I tried...

 

[Jay Cartay]

Hasn't worked for me. Made absolutely no difference. Gutted.

 

[Botus]

replace the popped fuse in the front SAM as well

if that doesn't sort you out then you did it wrong or it wasn't the cause in the first place

 

[Jay Cartay]

replace the popped fuse in the front SAM as well

if that doesn't sort you out then you did it wrong or it wasn't the cause in the first place

OK so I might have jumped the gun a little. Upon reading the codes again, the shutoff motor isn't giving me a code anymore!

Unfortunately I'm now getting 2089-001: Component B18 (Exhaust back pressure sensor) does not function properly. Short circuit to positive or open circuit

And

2510-001: Component Y77/4 (Boost pressure positioner)does not function properly. Positioner signals fault.

Weird, as these weren't coming up before doing the resistor mod. Also, the turbo actuator does move when the ignition is switched on so I'm pretty confused right now!

 

[Botus]

check the fuse in the front SAM its NOT called the right name in the list..... bold would have made sense and told a story

Fuse: F44 15A Inlet port shut off, EGR valve & Turbo variable geometry actuator

if that's intact, check what the Exhaust back pressure sensor readings are in live data.... that is ALSO called the wrong thing, back pressure sensor means exhaust pressure info for the Boost pressure positioner (which ought to be Turbo variable geometry actuator) its role is to optimise low rev boost and also does the role of the wastegate. It alters the angle of gas flow hitting the turbo impeller, rather than the better more expensive idea of altering the impeller vane angle.

If that's making sense, pull the turbo actuator off and take a look inside at the link wires from the multiplug to the circuit board and resolder any that have come adrift, and clean of any gunk off the worm drive and lubricate very lightly with some high temp lube.... (or fit a new one).

When the fuse F44 is intact and everything is working the turbo link rod moves when you turn on the ignition and wobbles about when the car is started and you blip the throttle.

The shutoff motor (aka swirl flap drive motor) dies under the strain of sooted up ports (around 9 to 12 years) 10p fix
The exhaust back pressor sensor gives up (around 9 to 12 years) £45 main dealer stocks, 5 minute job with 24mm deep socket
The link wires might fall of the turbo actuator circuit board (around 9 to 12 years)
The CAT sensors die too (around 9 to 12 years)

 

[Jay Cartay]

check the fuse in the front SAM its NOT called the right name in the list..... bold would have made sense and told a story

Fuse: F44 15A Inlet port shut off, EGR valve & Turbo variable geometry actuator

if that's intact, check what the Exhaust back pressure sensor readings are in live data.... that is ALSO called the wrong thing, back pressure sensor means exhaust pressure info for the Boost pressure positioner (which ought to be Turbo variable geometry actuator) its role is to optimise low rev boost and also does the role of the wastegate. It alters the angle of gas flow hitting the turbo impeller, rather than the better more expensive idea of altering the impeller vane angle.

If that's making sense, pull the turbo actuator off and take a look inside at the link wires from the multiplug to the circuit board and resolder any that have come adrift, and clean of any gunk off the worm drive and lubricate very lightly with some high temp lube.... (or fit a new one).

When the fuse F44 is intact and everything is working the turbo link rod moves when you turn on the ignition and wobbles about when the car is started and you blip the throttle.

The shutoff motor (aka swirl flap drive motor) dies under the strain of sooted up ports (around 9 to 12 years) 10p fix
The exhaust back pressor sensor gives up (around 9 to 12 years) £45 main dealer stocks, 5 minute job with 24mm deep socket
The link wires might fall of the turbo actuator circuit board (around 9 to 12 years)
The CAT sensors die too (around 9 to 12 years)

Super helpful, cheers! Which one is F44? Struggling to find that? On the other hand, does the fact the actuator moves when the ignition is turned on not rule that out? I had the actuator off, and the arm on the turbo itself also moves fine. I'll open it up and check the soldering, but again, so the fact it moves on ignition on not rule that out?

 

[Botus]

…. Front SAM is under the bonnet, drivers side (fuse 44 is listed as fuse 44.... but you might need glasses and a torch)
however if its moving then sounds like its OK

so what are the symptoms…. the back pressure sensor fails quite often, when dead it reads silly numbers when the engine is turned off (when clearly there's not much happening and those numbers are junk) it means the turbo doesn't wind up the boost correctly and is very flat performance wise

its to the right of the turbo (when looking from the front) with the wires
the next bit on the right is the EGR they are 500 quid and don't come out.... but need to be cleaned inside

 

[Jay Cartay]

It's weird. Ignition on but not started, everything is showing 955 hPa just now. Boost pressure positioned shows 95%,but not sure what that actually means?

Once started and idling, the exhaust back pressure sensor is reading 1248 hPa.

The error codes are telling me "positioned signals fault X" for the boost pressure sensor and short circuit to positive or open circuit on the exhaust back pressure sensor.

Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

 

[Jay Cartay]

OK so furthermore, I've just discovered that if I drive it and hit full boost, the pressure positioner defaults to 10% and the exhaust sensor goes to 5000 hPa. There they sit, with no boost and no kickdown once this happens.

Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

 

[Botus]

just located the post where I gave the pressure readings I got on a dead one.... two days on this forum's search feature or 5 minutes on google (to find post here, I started !!!)

2006 w211 E280CDI live data,

with dead back pressure sensor

Live data at idle 700 rpm (engine hot)
air intake 1017hPa
boost 1010hPa
Exhaust back pressure 4980hPa
charge pressure 27.6%
boost air temp 85 F !!! (29.4 C)
atmospheric pressure 1017hPa
engine speed 1933 l/min
coolant 191 F (88.3 C)
4614 Air mass 392mg/Hub
exhaust gas recirculation positioner 34.2%

Live data at idle 0 rpm (engine off & cold)
air intake 1021hPa
boost 1015hPa
Exhaust back pressure 4980hPa
charge pressure 27.6%
boost air temp 53 F !!! (11.6 C)
atmospheric pressure 1021hPa
engine speed 0 l/min
coolant didn't look
4614 Air mass didn't look
exhaust gas recirculation positioner didn't look

stats with the new sensor fitted

Live data at idle 699 rpm (engine cold)
air intake 1022hPa
boost 1018Pa
Exhaust back pressure 1022hPa
charge pressure 27.6%
boost air temp 49 F (9.4 C)
atmospheric pressure 1021hPa
engine speed 701 l/min
coolant 69 F (20.5 C)
4614 air mass 430mg/Hub
exhaust gas recirculation positioner 29.4%

https://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/...it-211-exhaust-back-pressure-too-high.172809/

if its over 10 years old and 100k miles fit one anyway... it will just die inside the year and they are only 45 quid

 

[Jay Cartay]

It gets weirder...

I drove the van yesterday, cleared the codes a few times, kept driving. Everything works fine. The sensors, the actuator, all of it initially. I'd think if they were faulty that wouldn't be the case?

After a bit of prolonged use yesterday, it stopped giving the exhaust back pressure sensor code, but started giving me 2359-002 - The charge pressure control is faulty.

Think I'm going to order a new actuator today and see what happens. I'll still change the exhaust sensor as I already ordered one.

 

[Botus]

do the sensor, see where you are

 

[Keven]

Potentially a flap could wear down and break, and damage a valve or piston.

This is almost unheard of on Mercedes engines, and I am unaware of it ever having happened on the OM642.

Just had this happen to me. Canadian E320 CDI. Had the Euro manifold waiting to install, and a piece of the flap on the 3cyl. broke off and into the engine it went. Bent the intake valve. Now I'm just in the process of putting the head back in place with a new valve. Hope she's running normal again after all this.

When diagnosing it, I was getting misfire codes for the 3rd cyl. and assumed it was just an injector. After changing the injectors around, the misfire stayed on the 3rd cyl which made me think the problem was after the injection. With the intake manifold off, I was able to crank the car with the starter, and could hear one of the two intake valves (the one with the flap) have a sort of "dry cough" sound.