M272 Spark plug arrangement isn't as WIS says.

London John

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**BUMP** Hey Conor! I hope you're still around wrt this forum - I was wondering if I might pick your brains please?

I've recently (2 months ago) got myself a used 2010 e350cgi coupe. It runs beautifully, with 87K miles, but has a sketchy service history over the past few years: it was a company lease originally and was therefore serviced by a Merc main dealer until 2014, but from then on I just have some invoices for indy-shop services to around 2018, then nothing since then...

I've always done as much of my own maintenance & servicing as I can, and I've already done a lot on this car. One thing I'd like to do is the spark plugs - the last actual record I have of them being replaced is in 2015 (at 38k miles). And given that Merc's recommended service interval is 45k miles or 4 years, it would appear that a) it's unlikely that the plugs were replaced again after that first replacement, and b) they're now clearly overdue for replacement.

Even though the engine runs beautifully (save for some lifter tick...) and throws no fault codes at all, I'd still err on the side of changing the plugs so that I know they're new and in keeping with Merc's own service intervals (though if anyone has views on whether those sorts of service intervals can safely be significantly stretched if the engine is running fine - or indeed whether it's very important to stick to those Merc intervals for plug changes - I'd be very interested to hear them!).

So...... I'd like to change my plugs myself if possible. As you're obviously well aware (and as many who don't have CGI versions of the M272 are not), special tools are required to a) remove the HT lead boots and b) remove the plugs themselves. I was wondering therefore, from your own experiences:

1) Did you get the boot puller tool in the end? If so, is it intuitive as to how you use the tool? It looks to me as if something like an extension bar would need to be attached to the tool in order to get it to reach all the way down to the end of the boot.

2) Would something like these tools (though they're made for VW/Audi engines) be potentially usable in place of the Merc tool: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/123179520472 or https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133766250188

3) Is a standard slimline 12-point 14mm spark plug wrench (ie without an integrated universal joint, as per the Merc tool) sufficient to get the plugs out, or do you need something which looks like that Merc tool with the universal joint?

4) How did you solve the problem of crud potentially falling down into the cylinder when the spark plug is removed? I was thinking that one way might be to remove the boots first (but leave the spark plugs in place), then spray degreaser down each hole, agitate well with a long-handle brush, then carefully spray out all the dirt and gunk with a hose or pressure washer. Then dry down as much as poss, using rags and a hairdryer or heat gun. But if you found a workable and effective method of your own, I'd love to hear what you did.

5) If you feel that the Merc tools (or tools which look very similar to the Merc tools) are a definite requirement for the job, and assuming that you now own those tools, would you be open to the possibility of posting them to me (I'm just Northwest of London)? Obviously I'd pay postage both ways, plus a reasonable "rental" fee!!


Cheers - and I hope you're still around!
John

(And if anyone else who's done the plugs on a CGI version of the M272 happens to read this too, I'd love to hear back from you as well!)
 
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Conor

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@London John

I know I promised to reply to this, and I am terribly sorry it has taken so long. I've not been too proactive on here the past month or so with a ton of other stuff going on.. all self inflicted so don't pity me ;)

Anyway, let me try and answer your questions with the best of my knowledge... remember i'm not a trained mechanic, but an enthusiastic newbie who makes plenty of mistakes :shock:

Preface: I didn't change the spark plugs myself but I was there when the mechanic did it.

1) I did not get the boot pulling tool. The mechanic who did mine, didn't have the special tool.. He would have had something similar etc. I don't think you need this tool. Another mechanic gave me a tip before that these boots are easier removed when the engine is warm..

2) I personally don't think those tools would actually work. I don't know if you've had a look at where the plugs are, but they are tucked right under there.. the ones closer to the bulkhead on the passenger side are pretty damn tight....

3) You absolutely need something that looks like the Merc tool. I don't think a straight socket will work on any of the plugs. Ensure whatever you get is a 12 point socket as some plugs can be 12. Now, the guy who did my plugs, didn't use that specific tool, but he had one very similar. A regular wobble extension won't work as it doesn't offer enough of an angle. I would recommend you get the "Hazet 4766-3" tool, or very very similar. Yes, it's expensive. I believe Hazet is Snap-on grade, and prices.

4) I didn't... and crud might very well have fallen in, which I might very well be suffering from now. But who knows. Kent bergman (MercedesSource on YouTube) puts some old rubber tubing (fuel hose) on the end of a blower and blows out the cavity. You could spray something to soften up crud before hand if you wish, not a bad shout.. I would strongly recommend you do something, and use compressed air. I wince every time I think of it not being done on mine.

5) As above the socket is definitely a requirement. I am currently in Ireland so it's a bit awkward to post as the return leg will have customs issues :'( I would have no problem in sending to you with no rental fee but unfortunately it's not possible. I should be back in London in the new year, but not sure when you are doing the plugs. As a side note... try FatLlama to rent the tool.. I doubt it will be available. But I will make all mine available on there when I go back.

A tip, the wonderful @alexanderfoti once told me that when pulling the plugs, ensure you keep note of what plug came out of what cylinder. You can often get some useful insight about the state of that cylinder by inspecting the plug. Don't be like me and see a couple of totally messed up plugs.. but then wondering which cylinder they came out of :eek:

You might also have a bit of interest in this post I made earlier to another user. There might be something useful in there around the PCV valve stuff, if it ever comes to it.

(Again, sorry for the delay)..
 

London John

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Hi again!

Just dropped by to see your great - and really detailed - reply. I appreciate it very much.

I actually went ahead and got 6 new plugs, in anticipation of changing them out one way or another! So what you've told me here is interesting and valuable. On the back of your advice, I might warm the car up one day then clamber in on top of the engine and see if I can get the boots off without breaking them or anything else. If they feel totally stuck fast, I'll have to have a re-think. Re getting the plugs themselves out, I'll at least try to see if I can find a more reasonably-priced tool which will do the job. If I can't, I will have to decide between getting the proper tool, or waiting til the new year and getting back in touch with you! I know I want/need to change the plugs fairly soon, but "soon" could just as easily mean next year - and the engine's running fine at the moment anyhow.

So.... thank you once again, and I'll let you know how things progress.
 
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London John

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Oh and I'd planned to change the pcv valve as well (inc putting in an oil catch can), and have already bought the parts! I must admit though that I haven't yet taken a proper look at the location - I had no idea how damned difficult it is on our model!! I'm not throwing any codes though so there's no mad rush, but it's one of those things that I just wanted to do, having bought the car with 80k miles on the clock.

(At the moment, I've got the car up on axle stands and I'm replacing all four sway-bar drop links, plus I'll be replacing the transmission mount, diff mount, and the two engine mounts. And after that, I'll be changing the transmission oil including the torque converter. Fun days ahead!)
 

Misterdog

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The VW Beetle used to use the pressure from the spare tyre for the windscreen washer. Just don’t use it too much or your tyre will be flat...

The lever for the car jack doubled up as a dipstick for the fuel tank.

The fan belt 'tensioner' comprised of a split tapered pulley to which you added or subtracted washers.

The air filter was 1/2 L of engine oil.

VW-181.jpg


My 1972 air cooled VW.
 

Misterdog

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Some of the 70s Fiats (127?) had the same set up

Fold down windscreen :)

I'm not sure why the army would need this feature either, camouflage maybe, through lack of reflection.

Was challenging with flies/dust in your eyes above 30 MPH, though there are few flies around these days.

Anyone else noticed how clean a windscreen is after a long run these days ?

Maybe the pollution from the exhausts back in the day used to attract them o_O
On the Autobahn services the chap who filled you up used to also wash your screen, probably not required now.
 

Uncle Benz

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Similar here…

52459795-A80-B-45-B2-B1-C1-2-CE6-DF0-FD473.jpg


I love taking my wife in this car. She is rarely seen with a closed mouth - loves to chat… You quickly learn to keep your mouth shut in this car, or you’re picking flies out of your teeth!
 

Misterdog

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You might need more ground clearance than that for Stanage Edge though.

91040011.jpg



;)
 
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Conor

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Similar here…

52459795-A80-B-45-B2-B1-C1-2-CE6-DF0-FD473.jpg


I love taking my wife in this car. She is rarely seen with a closed mouth - loves to chat… You quickly learn to keep your mouth shut in this car, or you’re picking flies out of your teeth!

Lovely!!

I knew that place looked familiar alright :)
 

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