Memorial Day greetings,from Grand Lake, CO USA.,

[Allan Grote]

Welcome Allen, you've been around a lot of nice cars

Thanks, I enjoyed building more than owning and driving, always seemed like someone parked too close or put their young children as if it was a Disney experience... something like fishing, the catching was more fun than the eating...
On the economic side, i only wish is that I had kept them, probably could have changed my address? I look back on cars and trucks I sold for at 15% of todays value, but that’s what the market at the time.
I stopped restoring for nearly 20 years, used same skills building homes, had fun, didn’t have to justify every hour, but it never was in the money anyway.
I have always enjoyed the challenge and friends with similar interests.

 

[Allan Grote]

Yes they can be removed in situ. Just disconnect the lower end of the strut. Two metal clips hold them in position. Cut them off and replace with new (or use long cable ties). No need to disconnect hydraulics.

I'm in the UK.

i really appreciate knowing, just driving until they failed from dirt and other contaminants didn’t make sense to me...
I’ve worked on a ton of cars, had never seen boots get brittle as a saltine cracker before these, but live long enough...

 

[LostKiwi]

i really appreciate knowing, just driving until they failed from dirt and other contaminants didn’t make sense to me...
I’ve worked on a ton of cars, had never seen boots get brittle as a saltine cracker before these, but live long enough...

My cars 2002 so one of the earliest. Now covered 109k miles and still has perfect boots, though it has had 3 struts replaced over the years (one possibly not needed). The hardest part in getting them changed is splitting the lower end of the front strut from the arm - it's a ball joint and not super accessible to break the taper. Once that's done it's pretty straightforward.
It would probably be wise to open the bleed valve to release pressure in the system before starting. Bleed valve on each strut is easily accessed - simply follow the hard pipework down and you'll find it.

 

[Allan Grote]

I mentioned my car only had 27500 mi, delivered in Miami. Then Houston and Anchorage 13 years mostly storage.
My experience w garage queens has been varied, but to date everything has checked out. Nearly all fluids and filters replaced prior to drive to CO from Anchorage 3 years ago. To date, since my purchase last year, I’ve changed most fluids/filters again, balance TBD ASAP, everything Aok!

So, what I’m going to do, is take the car into best garage in our nearest town, Pop 1,000, where he has a rack, and alignment rack. Complete front boots, then do reared a week later.
From your msg, the order of my project for front is;
Elevate car, Open bleeders, HP care! , Disconnect Balljoints, Loosen top mounting, Remove balance of old boots, Clean and inspect shocks ball joints, tie rod ends, all suspension, Install new boots, reinstall in reverse,
Drain ABC, reservoir, pump, replace filter, refill, bleed entire system- RR, LR, RF, LF, (Steering rack?). Is there a bleeder valve on the rack? Or does it just pump back to reservoir, turning back and forth to remove all air?
I mentioned this is my 1st MB, everything seems pretty straight forward although very over engineered.
I think it’ll be a lot easier on a rack, rather on jacks and stands on the floor! I did purchase a set of computer repair discs which I’ve loaded on my PC, supposedly same as shop manual for my car, but it’s clumsy as can be until I’m accustomed to the software...
I’m looking for some type of mounting clamp would like metal band similar to OE, are these available from dealer?

 

[LostKiwi]

Pretty much right. No need to loosen top mount though.
Also to bleed ABC you can cycle through the heights several times. If you have access to Star run a Rodeo test. No need to use bleed nipples to bleed the system. The rack will self bleed also.

 

[Allan Grote]

I mentioned my car only had 27500 mi, delivered in Miami. Then Houston and Anchorage 13 years mostly storage.
My experience w garage queens has been varied, but to date everything has checked out. Nearly all fluids and filters replaced prior to drive to CO from Anchorage 3 years ago. To date, since my purchase last year, I’ve changed most fluids/filters again, balance TBD ASAP, everything Aok!

So, what I’m going to do, is take the car into best garage in our nearest town, Pop 1,000, where he has a rack, and alignment rack. Complete front boots, then do reared a week later.
From your msg, the order of my project for front is;
Elevate car, Open bleeders, HP care! , Disconnect Balljoints, Loosen top mounting, Remove balance of old boots, Clean and inspect shocks ball joints, tie rod ends, all suspension, Install new boots, reinstall in reverse,
Drain ABC, reservoir, pump, replace filter, refill, bleed entire system- RR, LR, RF, LF, (Steering rack?). Is there a bleeder valve on the rack? Or does it just pump back to reservoir, turning back and forth to remove all air?
I mentioned this is my 1st MB, everything seems pretty straight forward although very over engineered.
I think it’ll be a lot easier on a rack, rather on jacks and stands on the floor! I did purchase a set of computer repair discs which I’ve loaded on my PC, supposedly same as shop manual for my car, but it’s clumsy as can be until I’m accustomed to the software...
I’m looking for some type of mounting clamp would like metal band similar to OE, are these available from dealer?

Pretty much right. No need to loosen top mount though.
Also to bleed ABC you can cycle through the heights several times. If you have access to Star run a Rodeo test. No need to use bleed nipples to bleed the system. The rack will self bleed also.

Great! I’ll let you know how it works out.

 

[Allan Grote]

Great, I’ll let you know how it comes out! I think you’ve saved me some good money.