Mercedes Vito Injector Black Death

gsc1ugs

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what is the best solution to pour over the top so I can jet wash it of in stages?

what will clean off the black death? the other back 2 injectors are coked in the stuff so cannot remove the injectors to take cover off?

..also is there any other alternative than helicoil? it seems this has been done before but failed again? how do i know what size helicoil to use ?

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Steve@Avantgarde

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Seen worse than this!!

The best way is to get the engine really hot, you can run it without the manifold on to do this, it will be fine. The carbon will go very gooey when hot, this is the best time to remove it. From then on carb cleaner or mr muscle over cleaner works very well to get the rest off, but beware its very corrosive and will melt any rubber on the injector wires, plugs or protective sheething around the loom.

Once clean get the engine hot again and remove the injectors, if they are stuck, you will need a special puller to remove them which requires stripping the injector tops in situ.

Looking at the picture it looks as if some monkey has poorly repaired it before using a high tensile steel bolt tapped out to M8. This repair does not work if the original bolts snap or threads are damaged. The simple reason is head is alloy which expands slightly when hot, the steel bolt will then loose torque effectively loosening the seal on the injector. The bolts used are M6 stretch bolts used to cope with this proceedure.

There are companies that will do an in-situ repair to make it as good as the original, I use Price Bros in Bristol who are masters at these.
 

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How long does it take to get like that ?
 
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gsc1ugs

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I don't really want run engine again just do the job properly, I have high power jet wash but I will need to break it down, what about bleach? it comes in a plastic bottle so cant damage injector connectors
 

Steve@Avantgarde

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The way i have told you is doing the job properly and the easiest way. I do at least 4 black deaths a week on various models including vitos and the above method is the best method. Trust me. Get the engine hot and you will be able to scrape it away.

Bleach and a pressure washer wont work, bleach is not the right chemical agent and i wouldnt recommend forcing water into and around electronic components.
 
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Steve@Avantgarde

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Cleaning carbon and getting the injectors out is just half the job, you also need to clean and cut the cylinder head seats, which you need special tools for and without them you wont be able to complete the repair effectively.
 
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gsc1ugs

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I cannot start engine because one injector has popped out because the helicoil someone has done has failed to hold the bolt, hence black death, have you a link to this tool?
 

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Then you will need to chip away at the old stuff whilst it is cold and then carb cleaner the rest away. If the rest of the injectors dont come out you will have to invest in a puller to get them out.

Then you will have to get someone to re-engineer the thread properly.

Go to ebay and type injector seat cutter tool and you will find what you need.
 
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gsc1ugs

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When do the threads start off the cylinder head for the m6 bolt? I have a m8 short tap, will that do it?
 
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gsc1ugs

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about 40mm cutting length, is that sufficient to hold the bolt?
 

Steve@Avantgarde

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When do the threads start off the cylinder head for the m6 bolt? I have a m8 short tap, will that do it?

No, the thread is M6 not M8, I have a tap for doing them its extra long. If you look at Hudson Engineering on ebay you will see them for sale, they are about £15.
 

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The problem you have is you are trying to tap an 8mm thread into an alloy head and then likely use a 10.8 high tensile steel bolt to hold the injector. When the engine gets hot the alloy will expand, loosening the torque on the injector clamp. This will either cause the seal to leak badly causing black death again within 2000 miles at the most or blow the injector clean out the head. I have seen both outcomes.

If you read my advice earlier in the thread you will heed it for a proper repair. Its not that i think I know it all nor am I trying to be a billy big bollocks, its because Ive seen this type of bodge done thousands of times and not seen a successful one yet. Getting it engineered properly is the best and only way.
 
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gsc1ugs

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so the threads of the culinder head are at the bottom?
 
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gsc1ugs

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So steve@avantgarde, what is the correct repair if i have a knackered m6 thread? I will be doin the job that is correct.
 
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gsc1ugs

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what is the correct repair if i have a stripped m6 thread?
 

bob 6600

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This was answered on the other forum you decided to ignore and leave.

You need to look up helicoil or timesert repair. I have done neither but reading threads on here those are the two most common repairs for these.

You seem adament to do it yourself which is fine but you need to do ALOT of reading up before you have a go.

Btw the advice you get here will be the same, as the correct procedure remains the same!
 

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When cutting the re-cutting the seats for the 109CDI do you need the 17mm flat reamer or the angled/tapered one? Very hard to tell by looking down the hole and I can't find any pointers anywhere...

Cheers!
 

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I tried to give all the advice I could earlier in the thread.

Not even I attempt the thread repairs, I get a professional engineering company in to do it.

They drill the hole out to M8, insert a thread which is then drilled to M6 to use the correct bolt. This is the best and most effective repair I have ever seen and never had one fail or leak afterward, unlike other attempts at repairs using bigger bolts etc.
 

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