Ml270 , 2003 , project

joderest

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I changed the separated on my ML, it was first thing I did when I noticed oil in the turbo pipe, made no difference.
 

joderest

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I think I would pull the spare one apart and see what the sealing rings are like, then decide if have to get new ones.
 
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vincentfishing

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When I did mine years ago, I seem to remember that there is no gasket per se. There are just a number of "O" rings that fit around the holes. I re-used mine as they were quite perfect at 100000km.
Hopefully as i have two lots of o rings i will have 1 decent set to reuse,
 
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vincentfishing

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A leisurely 2.5 hrs and the spare inlet manifold is out, wasnt as difficult as i thought but being the spare makes it easier to work at it without worrying.
Was suprised to see its had the swirlflaps removed.... until i got it off, was a bit of a bodge, locking nuts blocking inlet, washers ground down to fit insitu, plastic has grind marks too, hope it doesnt affect sealing, also the middle round insert has bits missing, could be why oil blowing out of dipstick !,
Hoping bolts will come out easily so i can shorten and glue/ loctite ?? Into place,
Took out wheelarch liner, once undone a solid pull at the centre bottom of it pops it out quickly.only four small plastic nuts, couple missing i think.
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Then up to top, already taken off egr valve and pipe,torx type socket E11, a small 8mm ratchet spanner also fits on these torx bolts and undoes them easily.realised it was probably easier to drain coolant with the amount of pipes to remove.
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Next went back up to top and realeased as many pipes as it looked like i need to, 2 of these have to be pushed down through manifold to get it out.
Undid the allen key clamp to move fuel filter and get more access to silver heater? And to get power steering pump out of way
The fuel filter cradle is locked into place under pow steer pump you need these out to get pipe underneath rect silver heater unit off easily.
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Next there is a wishbont type bracket that supports the egr valve and bolts through manifold 20200109_124626.jpg
Think at this point took alltopinlet manifold bolts out, the bulkhead one requires the fuel pipe to the rail to be removed to give bettet access
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There are 2 plugs at front of engine that need to be pulled up through manifold and there are 3 at rear
 
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vincentfishing

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Undid and removed egr recirculation pipework and removed,
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Undid the lower manifold bolts .now realised that the manifold wouldnt lift out with the curved egr pipe going to the head still attached , to get at the bolts had to remove the heater ? That sits on top of this pipe
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This is held on by 4 torx fiddely but doable with patience.
With this off the manifold comes out easily. Not too many tools required, getting pipes and connectors off bit of a pain.
 

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vincentfishing

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Spent a while cleaning manifold and removing nuts and bolts and washers, all the inserts big round plastic liners were damaged, maybe the big locknuts did this ? Anyway all out and just refilled manifold with oven cleaner so tomorrow final clean and prepare for tapping ang gluing in bolts, had a look at JB Weld, theres a lot too choose from ! Any recommendations ????? 20200110_123149.jpg
 

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vincentfishing

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Have ordered M16x20mm bolts, K2 high heat silicone to glue/seal threads and nord lock washers which seem to be fool proof locking washers, hopefully this will last(might put some epoxy around bolt heads too)hope to start work thurs if everything is delivered on time
 

loz_dormer

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The oil will most defiantly be coming from the swirl flaps moving around in the manifold. When I did mine I didn’t remove the thermostat housing and I’m pretty sure I didn’t touch the fuel rail.
I removed the EGR, EGR cooler and fuel filter, and then NSF wheel and arch liner and everything is accessible from there. Regarding the inlet manifold gaskets, there’s 5 Rubber O rings, there is another gasket but that’s behind the inlet manifold spacer (can’t remember what it’s propper name is but you don’t take that off)

When it came to plugging the hole, I can’t remember what size bolts I used but I tapped a tread on the manifold and then used a body flex sealant on the bolt threads to make a nice seal. I also wire locked the bolts and just to be 100% sure they weren’t coming undone or going to leak I covered the bolt heads in the sealant. I probably went well over the top but I wanted to make sure so I never had to take the manifold of again!
 
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vincentfishing

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Did my removal the same as you with spare car, so will do the same removal with my ml once the blanking bits come , wont be wiring as the nord lock washers(never heard of them before this) actual get tighter if the bolt tries to unwind ,only found out about them when I read an article about different methods of locking bolts.... will be putting plenty of sealant around thread, washer and bolt head though just in case
 

joderest

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How did you get on with the bumper repair
 
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vincentfishing

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How did you get on with the bumper repair
on the backburner while I prepare spare inlet manifold before taking mine off, tapped the 5 holes with m16x2 taps 10 minutes ago, bolts arrived this morning , hopefully washers and sealant will arrive tomorrow, if so will blank off manifold tomorrow and start stripping my ml down early Thursday morning and hope to get it back together by evening or friday not, fingers crossed it all goes according to plan and starts !
 

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on the backburner while I prepare spare inlet manifold before taking mine off, tapped the 5 holes with m16x2 taps 10 minutes ago, bolts arrived this morning , hopefully washers and sealant will arrive tomorrow, if so will blank off manifold tomorrow and start stripping my ml down early Thursday morning and hope to get it back together by evening or friday not, fingers crossed it all goes according to plan and starts !
Pictures of the job as it progresses please
 

joderest

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I think you said the spare car you bought was a one owner (might be wrong) who ever did the swirl flap delete obviously did not understand the concept of airflow !!!.
How are you getting selling parts of the car to recoup cost, or is that going to wait until you have every thing off it you need.
 
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vincentfishing

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I think you said the spare car you bought was a one owner (might be wrong) who ever did the swirl flap delete obviously did not understand the concept of airflow !!!.
How are you getting selling parts of the car to recoup cost, or is that going to wait until you have every thing off it you need.
I was surprised at way swirlflap delete was done(was one owner), not in a hurry to sell anything off it , its just so handy having a complete spare car, will be swapping passenger door as that's the only rusty bit on my car, might get a cover/tarp for it and hang on to it for as long as possible.
 

joderest

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That's good ideas if you have enough room
 
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vincentfishing

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Checked bolts fitted in holes, used a couple of spanners with the tap, having tapped the holes there is not a lot of plastic left for the nord lock washer to lock onto , goung to go with rubber o rings on bolt for extra seal along with with K2 high temp sealant and try a blob of epoxy resin as a lock on bolt head and see if it holds, if not my try heating and welding piece of plastic against bolt edge( dont fancy trying to drill and wire bolt heads). 20200115_120154.jpg
 
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vincentfishing

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Finished the spare intake yesterday
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Today took my ml air intake off, took longer than getting spare manifold off as whovever did the original swirlflap delete didnt put everything back on ! Brackets, clips.
So managed to get my inlet manifold off without taking thermostat off or fuel rail , just a thermostat pipe and unclip a wiring plug, also this meant that i didnt have to take of curved egr pipe off that that goes round back of intake onto head , which i did with spare, i did however have to unbilt and lower a big egr bracket that goes under egr onto engine bracket(this wasnt on spare) this also gave me access to swirl flap motor plug.
This lot off first
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Then same as before on spare (ish)
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joderest

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Well done, nice job, its going to run so much better.
 
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vincentfishing

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now waiting for egr emulator from Europe, couldn't be bothered ordering and soldering bits, so bought this ready made
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