ML320 CDI code P2015 - Intake Manifold Runner Posn Sensor/Sw Curcuit Range/Perf

flymech1

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Hi guys n gals,

I've had a problem with my glow plugs not working recently (fault code P0670 - Glow Plug Module Control Circuit) and I'm busy working that problem. However I still need to use the car to get to work etc and the other day I finished a nightshift and it had been freezing for most of the night. Needless to say the cold V6 wouldn't start without some help so I boiled a kettle and used the hot water to heat the lump up. (Not ideal for many reasons I know!!)

Now I think I've killed my Swirl Motor (which upon inspection is already covered in oil seeping down from the turbo intake, common fault it seems) as I developed the fault code P2015 - Intake Manifold Runner Posn Sensor/Switch Circuit Range/Performance and CEL is on with it in limp home mode (turbo has been disabled by the ECU)

My question is this... (and apologies if its already been covered but I've read and I'm doing so much at the moment)... Has anyone out there done the quick fix whereby you bridge the 12v supply pin and the ECU line pin of the swirl motor plug with a resistor? If so, when did you do it and has anyone had any related problems since? I'm concerned that if my swirl motor has died in the fully closed posn then it could lead to damage further down the line.

Cheers!
 

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flymech1

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Ok, so after finding schematics of the swirl motor (AKA Intake Port Shutoff Motor) and it's operation I was happy to blank off the swirl motor's socket and bridge a 4.7k ohm resistor from the 12V supply line (red and green wire) to the PWM Signal line (Grey wire). Reason I was happy is the schematics show that without any current running through the motor the adjusting lever is moved into the rest position (which is full open) by a spring. This apparently degrades engine efficiency at lower rotational speeds as they would normally be closed but I'm prepared to suck it and see for now. A swirl motor change can cost anything from £600 to £1000 at a garage from what I've read and even as a DIY it's the cost of a swirl motor (£130 on eBay) plus 5 to 6 hours (estimated by a Merc Specialist so I'd probably need a week!) to remove the turbo, fuel filter and what not.

I've bought a 36p resistor from Maplin and took me an couple of hours in total, that was getting to the plug, blanking off the socket, crimping and soldering 2 spade connectors on to the resistor (which I modified with a dremel style grinding tool), drinking a cup of coffee, plugging in my resistor to pins 2 and 3, taping it up and putting it all back together then erasing the fault code via OBDII and starting it up! I could have done it a lot quicker but I was trying to make it look professional! :cool:

I've just been for a 10 mile trip with a blast along a country dual carriageway ;) and I'm happy to report there's full power and no fault code! :D (I was also testing my glow plug control box (relay) fix at the same time to see if I got rid of the P0670 code, which I have for now! I'll start a separate thread for that).
 
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flymech1

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ML320 CDI W164
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Here's a photo of the resistor in place prior to me putting the electricians tape on...
 

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greyboy

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Is this repair still ok?
Mine has just gone and it seems a far easier and cheaper repair than the alternative. Even if I do all the work myself.
Just wondered if the fix was permanent/long term.
Thanks.
 

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