Moisture in the Ditributor.. or not?

northcave

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Car in question: 1992 300sl 12v

A little while ago (about 12months) I had the problem whereby after about 5-10 mins of running the engine would stutter at low revs until it stopped altogether. I would then have to leave it for at least 2 hours before it would start again.

I replaced the distributor cap and rotor arm as recommended on here since it was probably moisture which was apparently a common problem. This fixed the problem but now it is happening again after only about 5k miles.

Could it still be the same problem even though it was was replaced so recently?

The other suggestion is that it might be a fault Crank sensor? Does this sound feasible also?

Thoughts on where to start pleas?
 

television

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Not the CPS is there any condensation in the cap or under the rotor arm
 
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northcave

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I havent had a look yet since it was such a pain in the backside to get to the cap off last time. I do remember there not being any condensation last time though and someone said I might not see it especially if from cold.

Should i run it for a bit till the problem occurs and then take it off to check?
 

television

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I havent had a look yet since it was such a pain in the backside to get to the cap off last time. I do remember there not being any condensation last time though and someone said I might not see it especially if from cold.

Should i run it for a bit till the problem occurs and then take it off to check?

Hard question,,, thinking about it I would take off the sump breathing pipe and make sure that it is clear just incase any fumes are being forced up through the distributor shaft
 
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northcave

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Any chance of a very rough location of that pipe? Is it accessible without getting up in the air per chance?
 
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northcave

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Many thanks Malcom, really appreciate your help as always... someone should give you a medal for all the advice you offer here!
 

turbopete

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it could be the coil breaking down. they get very hot when their internals short (or whatever it is that they do!) and the spark gets weak to the point it wont run. probably not the fault, but another idea to play with
 

television

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it could be the coil breaking down. they get very hot when their internals short (or whatever it is that they do!) and the spark gets weak to the point it wont run. probably not the fault, but another idea to play with

Pete,,you could have hit the nail on the head,,one short circuit turn will slowly heat up the coil to the point where the spark will be Zero, easy to check for a spark when it will not start
 


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