MOT Failure - 2010 E Class S212 with corroded subframe

Conor

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So you guys .. the infamous W212 rusty subframe has come to my doorstep.

Have just been in for MOT and failed. I knew this was coming tbh.. while I could have covered it up and got it passed, it might be harder to get MB to cover it under good will without an MOT failure.

Just a bit annoying now as I can imagine this won't be a short affair to get it repaired.

I called Mercedes in Croydon a while back, and they wouldn't cover it under good will due to lack of MB service history. That's annoying .. I need to do more research.

If MB won't cover under good will, i'll get a used subframe that's not rusted through - get it galvanised and then stick it on myself. Car needs a good overhaul anyway, and perhaps this is the impetus to start that work sooner, rather than later .. my poor Clio will never get built.

1692957838259.png
 
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C16RKC

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Sorry to see that; as you say given you are quite handy finding a decent one and coating it would seem like a good idea.
 

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I would challenge how a fmdsh would make any difference to that happening! Anyone with half a brain cell knows fmdsh = shag knacker.

Is it worth trying any other dealers where fellow members have had success? I hope you get this sorted as I know you like the car.


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malcolm E53 AMG

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So you guys .. the infamous W212 rusty subframe has come to my doorstep.

Have justified been in for MOT and failed. I knew this was coming tbh.. while I could have covered it up and got it passed, it might be harder to get MB to cover it under good will without an MOT failure.

Just a bit annoying now as I can imagine this won't be a short affair to get it repaired.

I called Mercedes in Croydon a while back, and they wouldn't cover it under good will due to lack of MB service history. That's annoying .. I need to do more research.

If MB won't cover under good will, i'll get a used subframe that's not rusted through - get it galvanised and then stick it on myself. Car needs a good overhaul anyway, and perhaps this is the impetus to start that work sooner, rather than later .. my poor Clio will never get built.

View attachment 85944
Trying to figure out where that area is on the subframe the rest of the pic doesn’t give much of a clue?
 
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Conor

Conor

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Sorry to see that; as you say given you are quite handy finding a decent one and coating it would seem like a good idea.

Let's see how things pan out with the dealer. I have it on good authority that this particular dealer will do the job without main dealer history.

If that fails.. ita back to the unit in Ireland and will be a DIY along with the engine overhaul.. car should be a good 'un then.

I would challenge how a fmdsh would make any difference to that happening! Anyone with half a brain cell knows fmdsh = shag knacker.

Is it worth trying any other dealers where fellow members have had success? I hope you get this sorted as I know you like the car.


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Let's see.. its booked in to Tonbridge for mid September.. so let's see what comes up.. I wonder what the lead time on subframes is as the moment.

Trying to figure out where that area is on the subframe the rest of the pic doesn’t give much of a clue?
Sorry mate.. the following is the only other image I have.. its the near side rear where the control arm joins with the subframe. 20230825_100605.jpg
 
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Conor

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I'm starting to ponder how long it is going to take to get the subframe repaired. Does anybody have any insight into this ?

Part of me is wondering if I buy something else to tide me over until its repaired ? I quite fancy a W221 S350, or there a couple of S211 E350 (non CGI).. I'm wondering how long these would take to resell in London.. considering the new diesel situation, perhaps people might be interesting in picking up a petrol if its only a stones throw.

With that in mind.. if you were going to buy something for a few months to tide you over.. what would you pick that would sell relatively quick and which wouldnt lose you any money ?

If the SL wasnt being overhauled in Ireland, id bring that back.. its the only real viable option.

P.s Also, the eagle eyed among you will have noticed that I removed the "First" element as I have previously had two failures. First was when I bought the car the rear air bags were sagging. And later on the rear tires were worn quite badly on the inside.. down to the wire. I think that same MOT might have failed on front pads too.. or maybe it was just am advisory.
 

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I wud seriously consider another w208 if I saw a rust free version. Most comfortable reliable, still simple car.
 

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The w221 is a nice cruiser but can’t see it being an easy thing to sell with all the motoring crap of today. Expect to take big hit at sale time
But I think now, a w221 is a car for someone who is happy to keep it for the long run.

Tbh, I know it’s not everyone’s cup of tea but, what about an old man’s Volvo v70 T5 or D5? Cheap to buy, comfy, reliable, easy to maintain.


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grayb

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MB Tonbridge replaced our subframe last autumn, even though most of our service history is with independant MB specialists (with electronic records on the MB Star system). They handled the whole thing very well (apart from a kinked brake line, which they rectified when it was raised). They had to get approval from MB HQ as far as I know...
 

grayb

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MB Tonbridge replaced our subframe last autumn, even though most of our service history is with independant MB specialists (with electronic records on the MB Star system). They handled the whole thing very well (apart from a kinked brake line, which they rectified when it was raised). They had to get approval from MB HQ as far as I know...
Oh, and the whole visit to MB Tonbridge took about 10 days. The new subframe took about 5 days to come, but perhaps we were lucky? Our car was immobile as the frame had actually split near a suspension mounting.
 
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Oh, and the whole visit to MB Tonbridge took about 10 days. The new subframe took about 5 days to come, but perhaps we were lucky? Our car was immobile as the frame had actually split near a suspension mounting.
Mine is near immobile too... because I can't really drive with a failed test.

It's really awkward for me as Croydon is only down the road but they won't do without MBSH..

So I'm going to call MB UK tomorrow and see if I can get them to lean on them.
 

grayb

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Mine is near immobile too... because I can't really drive with a failed test.

It's really awkward for me as Croydon is only down the road but they won't do without MBSH..

So I'm going to call MB UK tomorrow and see if I can get them to lean on them.
We had to pay for a car transporter to take the car from Alex Foti's to MB Tonbridge - Alex diagnosed the problem. We also had to pay for the brake pipes.
 
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We had to pay for a car transporter to take the car from Alex Foti's to MB Tonbridge - Alex diagnosed the problem. We also had to pay for the brake pipes.

Interesting on the brakes. Mine have just been done.

Did they try and shaft you for any arms or bushes and whatnot ? My rear arms need doing (one, anyway) and I had been putting it off.
 
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Right-e-oh.. Opened a case with Mercedes-Benz UK and received a fairly prompt follow-up.

They are going to reach out to Croydon and find out what the story is with their refusal to explore a GWP (Good will programme) resolution.

I'll keep you guys posted.

The w221 is a nice cruiser but can’t see it being an easy thing to sell with all the motoring crap of today. Expect to take big hit at sale time
But I think now, a w221 is a car for someone who is happy to keep it for the long run.

Tbh, I know it’s not everyone’s cup of tea but, what about an old man’s Volvo v70 T5 or D5? Cheap to buy, comfy, reliable, easy to maintain.


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Agreed, probably hard to move on after - would be a bit of a gamble. I'll save W221 for another time eh.
 
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We had to pay for a car transporter to take the car from Alex Foti's to MB Tonbridge - Alex diagnosed the problem. We also had to pay for the brake pipes.

For the brake lines was that proposed and agreed before the car went in for the work, or was it when the car was apart and on the lift?
 

grayb

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For the brake lines was that proposed and agreed before the car went in for the work, or was it when the car was apart and on the lift?
When they inspected the subframe they noted that the brake lines over the back were the originals, and said that they were likely to not come off undamaged. We sense-checked this with Alex Foti, who said that was a fair point. The price they quoted us, about £600 wasn't much different to having Alex do it as a stand-alone job. So we had them do it while they were there. Some of the lines go under the subframe, I think - but I could be wrong on that.
 
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When they inspected the subframe they noted that the brake lines over the back were the originals, and said that they were likely to not come off undamaged. We sense-checked this with Alex Foti, who said that was a fair point. The price they quoted us, about £600 wasn't much different to having Alex do it as a stand-alone job. So we had them do it while they were there. Some of the lines go under the subframe, I think - but I could be wrong on that.

Ok, fair enough. I was just wondering were there tactics there to spring stuff last minute when the car was on lift kind of thing.

Yea the lines go up above the subframe.. awkward enough.. I did mine recently. There was no way I was using Cunifer and opted for copper... I know people here shun that, but hey ho..
 

CowleyStJames

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When they inspected the subframe they noted that the brake lines over the back were the originals, and said that they were likely to not come off undamaged. We sense-checked this with Alex Foti, who said that was a fair point. The price they quoted us, about £600 wasn't much different to having Alex do it as a stand-alone job. So we had them do it while they were there. Some of the lines go under the subframe, I think - but I could be wrong on that.
I'm a Master Tech at a MB dealership and when doing a subframe replacement under MBUK authorisation we replace the brake lines FOC as in reality it costs us almost nothing in parts.
We always have cupro nickel (Kunifer) piping on a large drum and male/female compression fittings are two a penny when bought in quantity.
Out of good customer relations we consider this the best way to go
 

mioba

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Hahaha costs you almost nothing in parts. Thats not what you tell customers (service managers) - the figs you throw at customers you must think money grows on tress.

your post needs to go in the daily joke thread ..... yanking your leg of course
 

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