Multimeter & Test Lead recommendations ?

tjamesbo

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I'm increasingly using my multimeter on my cars and currently my boat I 'm getting frustrated by attaching different leads to it and also the test lead pins on it are often just too big to go inside connectors so I'm holding against the tip of the connector and also trying to hold the other probe on an earth I'm thinking I ll get a new one with a set of leads to cover all eventualities ie small pins crock clips etc and crucially pins the right size to insert into auto & marine connectors has anyone any recommendations for something that would be useful on boat / car elec diagnostics without breaking the bank
Thanks
Boyd
 
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tjamesbo

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If I get just a test lead kit is it likely to fit my current meter are the terminals on the meter a euro standard?
 

AMGeed

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Is there a photos of the leads you are thinking about to compare with your tester sockets?
 

umblecumbuz

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On my boat, whenever checks are needed - and in a salt water environment that is frequently - I use an analogue multimeter, and when testing I pierce the various cables with needles, then I connect my small crocodile clips to them. It makes for a secure hands-free connection.

I was told what a fool I was when I started using this method, because salt water would find its way into the holes I had pierced and give me more trouble. Over many years there has been no trouble, because it seems that as I withdraw the needle the plastic covering seals the miniscule hole.

Not a complete answer to your question, but a tip I've found useful.
 

M80

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If I can I'll post up some links.
I have a dedicated meter on the boat, with a good set of leads, spare fuses and spare batteries.
I keep it all in a lock n lock tupperware box that is water tight.
A good meter doen't need to be expensive and if I've a fault afloat I want to be sure I can fault find.
It's also a small meter with big, back lit readout, and bleep bell test function.

Be careful of inserting probes into connectors, you can flare them and create future unreliable connections.
 

M80

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ANENG AN8002 Digital Multimeter AC/DC Voltage Ohm Current Meter 6000 Counts | eBay

This is slightly different, not sure if it matters. Mine is an Aneng 8002 although this one is supposed to be, it is listed as a little diffrent.

The temperature probe is good enough to be a good guide but I wouldn't use it to calibrate any kit.

Meter Alligator Crocodile Clip clamp test lead probe for tester such fluke etc. | eBay
A bit basic and they can pull of but these have served good purpose.

I've used the pins in wires trick to good effect, with crock clips. Carrying some superglue to seal the hole might be reasonable.
 
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tjamesbo

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Thank you a good Point noted about possibly flaring the connectors a pin piercing in the wire is obviously safer I'll have a look at those 19 year old Boat Fresh water only but probably earthing / connector issues got quite a volt drop and the digital guages like a full 12.5 or more
 

M80

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Thank you a good Point noted about possibly flaring the connectors a pin piercing in the wire is obviously safer I'll have a look at those 19 year old Boat Fresh water only but probably earthing / connector issues got quite a volt drop and the digital guages like a full 12.5 or more

I'm not quiet sure what your isue is,
but to eliminate grounding problems you might consider a length of wire, doesn't have to be heavy duty if not carrying heavy current, and secure to a known good ground. The other end can be used to bridge suspected bad connections.
It may help to prove / disprove and even locate bad grounding connections.
 
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tjamesbo

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I'm not quiet sure what your isue is,
but to eliminate grounding problems you might consider a length of wire, doesn't have to be heavy duty if not carrying heavy current, and secure to a known good ground. The other end can be used to bridge suspected bad connections.
It may help to prove / disprove and even locate bad grounding connections.
Yes I'm looking at doing that I have a malfunctioning /crazy Tacho and its fed digitally from an ECU its a known fact that the ECU and the gauges like a good 12V plus whereas I have an 0.8V drop on the positive switched ignition which means its about 11.8 or so on the switched live and thats with a negative lead going back to the battery I'm wondering is the volt drop because of a load on the circuit (engine / alternator not started or running ) I have a feeling that its the gauge at fault and the stepper motor within and I'll just have to purchase a replacement , not cheap around £160 for a replacement faria jobbie
Boyd
 
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tjamesbo

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hows the vito 115 ? I'm considering swapping my 120CDI for a more economical and more robust /reliable smaller engine also would like a smoother ride which points me at a 2010 or later or viano which has the later engine with the potential timing chain issues so i'm still making my mind up and need to try one see if it ticks the boxes the 120CDI was great fun but I;ve been there and done that now so looking to improve economy and the ride now
Boyd
 

M80

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The 115 gets on with the job, but has some vibes on acceleration that I'm blaming on the diff.
I've topped up the fluid and that improved things, then I replaced with new and it's pretty much back where it was.
I'm considering replacing with a lower ratio from a V6 for lower revs, but have learned from an Australian poster that that then needs a Star intervention to prevent the ESP seeing fault. So I'm aiming to get around to understanding how easy or not that would be.

But we are considering upgrading to a Viano with the 646 engine. A nicer place to be, but as the 115 is 06 and N1 registered the tax is nice at £145, compared to Viano £555.
The Vito, unusually, has front and rear parking sensors, front sunroof, steering button controls, both front seats heated and all oem.
I've upgraded to viano leather seats and done a fair few other mods.

The 115 has had a clumsy earlier life and it would be nice to have an undamaged example. No rust though and a geniune 123k miles.
So no rush.



I'm far from impressed by the 251 engine, too much plastic and as you say the timing chain is a problem in waiting.

The 115 can see 42mpg on a run, I cruise at less than 60mph.

Another advantage of the 646 engine is that is far less likley to have the DPF, so more reliable again.
 
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M80

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Obviously the tacho is only an issue when running. To reduce volt drop you either need to reduce the load on the leg of the cct, or increase the size of the cable.
Volt drop is a product of the resistance of the cable (so size and length, shorter length or larger cable both reduce volt drop proportionally). Also the higher the load the greater the volt drop.

Can you move the tacho closer to the sender for testing?
 

LostKiwi

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Obviously the tacho is only an issue when running. To reduce volt drop you either need to reduce the load on the leg of the cct, or increase the size of the cable.
Volt drop is a product of the resistance of the cable (so size and length, shorter length or larger cable both reduce volt drop proportionally). Also the higher the load the greater the volt drop.

Can you move the tacho closer to the sender for testing?
Or run a second wire in parallel?
 

M80

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Can you move the tacho closer to the sender for testing?

No issue with a second parallel feed, but my thinking was that if the tacho is very close to the origin with new wires connected, those wires now being very short would reduce the volt drop to a minimum.
The fault of wiring or tacho (stepper motor) should then be demonstrated.
The remedy could then be considered.
 

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