newbie dilema w123 230e

[jaysataff]

Hi everyone,
brand new on here and looking for advice on something that might be obvious, apologies in advance if thats the case. I have agreed to buy a yplate 230e thats been covered up in a "sweet old guys" out building and hes pretty much being a bit sketchy regarding details, aparantly lots of paperwork/recon engine really good inside/outside but no tax/mot and photo shows 300000 on the clock? sensible part of me has been reading the last 20 pages of 230e threads and normal me is hiding here in my vw bus (last bright idea) from wife looking for your reasons to drive 100miles and spend £500 on another TGTBT midlife. I do have mech savvy but dont have time if its heavy duty so if I get it and thats the case will put info on here first if anyones needy of a 230e I have attached some really random pics that the guy sent if anyone can shed lite right now cheers jay
sorry probably not being very specific, just wanted to know if this would still be worth looking at if its the original engine with 300000miles on it and the availability of recon engines that could be fitted, Im used to putting my t2 engine on the kitchen table, guess this may not be the case with MB lump (-:

 

[TheScrapman]

Well, I had 330,000 on my w123 230ce (original engine, replacement 'box) when I sold it three years ago, and I have since seen it in magazines, so I know that is still going strong.
They get a little sloppy with that mileage - bushes, steering etc, but are possibly the most reliable Merc in the world. I'd be a little concerned with those photos though, they seem to be avoiding all the areas that usually need attention. Driver seat bolster being the obvious one.

Watch out for rust - rear wheel arches and behind are usually a good indicator. If they look clean, make sure they are not full of filler.

The worst place these go however is on the rear kick-ups i.e. the two chassis sections that run over the top of the rear driveshafts. Crawl right under and check the up under the insides of these as well as the outsides. Otherwise they are very simple, very solid little cars and highly recommended!

 

[television]

As scrapman, thie pictures are only showing the good bits.

The 123 can rust around the bulkhead as well and badly around both front and rear windscreens. they always feel looser than the 124, right from new.

Welcome to the MB forum

 

[jaysataff]

Many Thanks Malcom & Scrapman,
On route right now to look at it and will use your advice, I am actually hoping that it is ok, get it and be able to continue the chatter,
best regards
Jason

 

[stever]

I replaced my 280 ce with a 230e about a year ago, and I think it's a better engine. Whilst it's a little less powerful, it's quieter and more economical.

I would check carefully what "recon engine" actually means - there are horror stories of half done jobs. Also, is it the original gearbox. It'll be very tired by now if so.

As the other two have said though, the main enemy is rust. In addition to the usual areas, check the inner sills - these cars are notorious for water leaks which sits in the rear footwells and causes the sills to go rotten.

 

[jaysataff]

Cheers Stever and thanks again to everyone for their advice, been to see the car and its caused even more of a dillema,
negatives
,rust is minimal small amount (5 pence no bubbles) on rear wheel arches but no filler, tiny bit over front headlight, partial history from Germany (ex NATO) stamped upto 79000,306000 on clock and sudden admision of no delcaration of SORN, and denial of discussion about recon lump,and central locking is not working as fuse is gone? outer rubber seal is brittle on rear windows.
positives
lack of rust,all electrics seem fine, start up and ride/suspension smooth,paintwork unblemished,no damp/ no water under footwells and sunroof/engine bay/seat springs are mint. tools,firstaid,stereo handbook are all present. I appreciate that its a very small purchase but I dont want to start of my MB life with a lemon or regret not buying a something that could be £200 away from sweet. AAARGGHH sorry again for the hand holding requests, got to let the guy know later, cheers jay.

 

[stever]

The central locking works on a vacuum, there's no electrics involved. There's probably a diaphragm gone in one of the doors. Can be fixed without too much £££ but takes time & patience. The rear window rubbers are about £15 each. Unless you mean the rear screen - that's more expensive and more of a problem, as it'll almost certainly be rusty underneath.

Given what else you describe though, I'd give it a miss. It's a very high mileage, and without comprehensive evidence of servicing & repairs I'd look elsewhere. I bought an absolutely top condition 230e with dealer FSH, no rust and 115k for £3k. If you want a usable runner, you can probably pick one up for £1k. I once bought a 280ce with a long MOT for £700. It was a bit rusty, but drove ok.

 

[SilverSaloon]

OP states the car is £500. If so i reckon it sounds good. Assuming it will pass the MOT its going to be cheap transport with possibility of being really nice with a little bit of TLC. All the issues you mention can be done gradually.

 

[television]

Cheers Stever and thanks again to everyone for their advice, been to see the car and its caused even more of a dillema,
negatives
,rust is minimal small amount (5 pence no bubbles) on rear wheel arches but no filler, tiny bit over front headlight, partial history from Germany (ex NATO) stamped upto 79000,306000 on clock and sudden admision of no delcaration of SORN, and denial of discussion about recon lump,and central locking is not working as fuse is gone? outer rubber seal is brittle on rear windows.
positives
lack of rust,all electrics seem fine, start up and ride/suspension smooth,paintwork unblemished,no damp/ no water under footwells and sunroof/engine bay/seat springs are mint. tools,firstaid,stereo handbook are all present. I appreciate that its a very small purchase but I dont want to start of my MB life with a lemon or regret not buying a something that could be £200 away from sweet. AAARGGHH sorry again for the hand holding requests, got to let the guy know later, cheers jay.

Little bubbles turn into holes, the metal has gone, dont go near it, the front wings can be replaced. but not the rear's

 

[jaysataff]

Cheers again, looks like I may be walking away from this one and will carry on searching,one possiblity on fleabay right now so not all bad. I seem to have caught the MB bug and the information and friendliness from this site has ensured that I will be back soon, cheers Jason

 

[TheScrapman]

If you are looking for a classic Merc, have a flick through the for sale section at www.retro-rides.org - link to forum here: http://retrorides.proboards86.com/index.cgi

It's got load of good stuff for sale from genuine enthusiasts.

 

[NicholasHinwood]

Hi guys,

I just bought myself a 1981 w123 230e!

I was at the Car Yard looking for a car for my mrs, saw the merc and fell in love. Just been outside fixing the ignition....

I want to clarify - the central locking isnt electrical? - mine was working but stopped along with any power to the car. Im now getting power to car but central locking stopped. It works on a vaccum? how do i go about repairing that? what am i looking for.

I am also new, but LOVE MY MERC!

 

[television]

Welcome Nick to the forum and your 123

Just as an outline you will find it all here

The links open after BM

http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb1.as....211215+++++++++++717.401&CT=F&Cat=222&SID=80

 

[stever]

Hi guys,

I just bought myself a 1981 w123 230e!

I was at the Car Yard looking for a car for my mrs, saw the merc and fell in love. Just been outside fixing the ignition....

I want to clarify - the central locking isnt electrical? - mine was working but stopped along with any power to the car. Im now getting power to car but central locking stopped. It works on a vaccum? how do i go about repairing that? what am i looking for.

I am also new, but LOVE MY MERC!

Correct - vacuum is generated at the manifold and supplied to a tank in the boot, under the parcel shelf. Have a look! There are no electrics at all in the system.

The door, bootlid & fuel flap locks are operated by diaphragm units controlled by the vacuum. The usual failure mode is that one of these units will have a tear in. Finding which one is time consuming! It could also be a cracked or detached pipe.

The reason it works with the engine running is that vacuum is continuously replenished - as soon as you turn off, the vacuum is lost wherever the leak is.

Best thing to do is go to benzworld.org and navigate to the W123 section. There's lots of advice on there on tracing the fault.