Newbie, which model?

[Kallisti]

I have a 2000/W E320 CDi Estate. Is that the T124 or the T210?

I've had a string of problems with it since I got it (second hand 6 months ago). Are any of them common:

1/ Diesel coil light coming back on for the first 1 minute of driving

2/ Dash display panels not working. So I'm not getting many segments working on the left (temperature) or right (gear/time). Middle is fine though.

3/ Rust, rust spot here and there, but really bad around the boot release.

4/ First time I've had a diesel, but is it normal to have to put 1lt of oil in per 1500 miles?

5/ Exhaust brackets just broke off last weekend (hence the original question as I need to get a replacement). Are the Bosal exhausts OK?

Worth mentioning, I knew about 2, and 3 before I bought So I'm not disappointed, just wondering.

 

[jberks]

I have a 2000/W E320 CDi Estate. Is that the T124 or the T210?

I've had a string of problems with it since I got it (second hand 6 months ago). Are any of them common:

1/ Diesel coil light coming back on for the first 1 minute of driving

2/ Dash display panels not working. So I'm not getting many segments working on the left (temperature) or right (gear/time). Middle is fine though.

3/ Rust, rust spot here and there, but really bad around the boot release.

4/ First time I've had a diesel, but is it normal to have to put 1lt of oil in per 1500 miles?

5/ Exhaust brackets just broke off last weekend (hence the original question as I need to get a replacement). Are the Bosal exhausts OK?

Worth mentioning, I knew about 2, and 3 before I bought So I'm not disappointed, just wondering.

Its a T210

1) Can happen. Probably need new glow plugs - they do wear out around 60-100k - not a big job.
2) Very common - They can be repaired for £250 ish by some after market repairers. MB want £700 for a new one.
3) If you have fmbsh MB will ifx this FOC. If not, have a chat with the dealer, MB may still contribute or in some cases do it anyway. Lift the seals on the doors, there will no doubt be rust under there too. Again a well known and documented issue with '98-02 mercs, especially E's (210s).
4) Possibly depending on the mileage. On the upside, you'll get 17k between services.
5) I'll don't know but generally MB exhausts are the best if poss as you'll get less problems and no change in sound, but given the cost, bosal are reputable so I can't see why not.

 

[DC_insider]

I have a 2000/W E320 CDi Estate. Is that the T124 or the T210?

S210 - no such thing as a T210.

 

[clive williams]

I have a 2000/W E320 CDi Estate. Is that the T124 or the T210?

I've had a string of problems with it since I got it (second hand 6 months ago). Are any of them common:

1/ Diesel coil light coming back on for the first 1 minute of driving

2/ Dash display panels not working. So I'm not getting many segments working on the left (temperature) or right (gear/time). Middle is fine though.

3/ Rust, rust spot here and there, but really bad around the boot release.

4/ First time I've had a diesel, but is it normal to have to put 1lt of oil in per 1500 miles?

5/ Exhaust brackets just broke off last weekend (hence the original question as I need to get a replacement). Are the Bosal exhausts OK?

Worth mentioning, I knew about 2, and 3 before I bought So I'm not disappointed, just wondering.

Kallisti,

My response to your queries and having the same model albeit a year younger with 105k mls

1) I agree with JB
2) The "pixellated" dash is common and appears to be an electrical connection problem. I've noticed that most of the pixels reappear after 15mins of driving - drying out? There has been some discussion in the past on rectification. If I have the time (although it's not a real priority) I might have a go at fixing my dash. I certainly won't be paying £200 let alone c£700 to fix it.
3) Deja Vu. Mine's the same but I negotiated a price reduction on the deal to suit - I trust you did?
4) Sounds Ok for a diesel, although mine hadn't used any oil at all in the 3k mls to the 1st service and none since (2k mls)
5) I personally don't like Bosal exhausts, they are mass produced cheapies and don't last longer than the warranty needs. Thats what comes from selling thousands of units monthy. MBs exhausts are good quality and I wouldn't mind thinking that the brackets can be easily welded back on. I've just rewelded the joints and a bracket on the 500E exhaust (220k mls/12yrs old!) as I was pleasantly surprised at the amount of meat left in the system and it should last another 100K mls. The rot is usually most aggressive next to the weld but you can weld across that. The new welding will be much cheaper than even a Bosal exhaust and you will still have the benefit of a quality system.
Alternatively, for the cost of an MB system you could have a stainless system built.

Clive

500E
E320CDIT210 I prefer the "T" designation as it doesn't confuse as the "S" designation does and is now becoming commonplace - tell MB to change!

 

[Kallisti]

Thanks for the replies guys..

Some notes..

I noticed the S210 designation, I swear I've seen the T210 too, ho hum, I'll know for future, thanks

Anyway, turns out that Bosal don't do the T (Sorry, S) 210 exhaust anyway, so I'm stuck there. A mechanic friend has told me that any welding is unlikely to hold for more than a few months so a new silencer is probably worth getting as it's pretty easy for him to fit.

I may regret it, but I've gone for a used one from Dronsfield that's come from a car with 16k on the clock. From what I've read about them, they seem to be pretty reputable. Can't argue too much with £95 though... Fingers crossed.

Let me know if you find an easy fix to the dash. I agree that I think it's loose connections, only thing is that I suspect that it's loose connections inside the actual panels. It's no more than an annoyance, dronsfield quoted me £200 for the new dash, god knows what's required to fit it though, so I'll leave alone till I'm feeling a bit flush (or desperate to know the time).

As for the rust, I knocked the seller down a bit However, of the cars that I saw, it was the least affected by rust. One was absolutely terrible, rust spots ALL over the bodywork. Interestingly, quite a few had the display problem too. I'll call MB and see what they'll do about the rust, I have a book full of pretty stamps

Thanks again for the insights.. Got y'all bookmarked, hopefully I'll be of help to some newbies in future

 

[OlafMaxwell]

hi...Have a W210 E320cdi Estate from new, now at 110k. No intention of changing it for another one, reckon repair bills on this will be much less. Merc are not the best pople to be dealing with.

Glow plugs, replaced at 65k. Expect 50-70k from them, replace them all at the same time. Any diesel I have had has had these done, one Fiat used only do 12k on a set but they were cheap and a 20min diy job to replace all 4. Merc more complex, not easliy accessible on the 6 and they quite regularly break when you try to get them out. The diesel coil light staying on is the sign they need doing.

Dash display seems common but I have been lucky on this one....

Rust, Merc took car back last February and replaced the 4 doors. Watch the front cross member, its a known rust risk. If you can put the car up and give it a good once over underneath to check for more rust. Don't trust the MB dealer to do it for you. My book is fully stamped so you should be able to get this done under warranty.

I have never had to top up oil between services, some have gone to 15k but I aim for 10k even thoguh the ASSYST will give you 13-17k.

My exhaust went at 4k..yes only 4k, long pipe split along the seam weld and MB called it wear and tear. You need to stick with MB exhausts but you may be able to make up or weld support brackets if that's all that's gone. Exhaust is expensive and not worth going Bosal. The back box seems to last a lifetime. You might be able to wrangle a discount from a main dealer at 6 years old.

Other points to watch, look out for non working air conditioning, it's also a weak point and the usual suspect is the condenser radiator inside the cover behind the nearside wheel. Dont be tempted to buy a secondhand one.

Knocks forkm front are common, drop links are the cauise, 25-50k, I have replaced them twice. A cheap fix.

Replaced ball joints at 80k, not charged for parts!!

ABS pump went at 65k and pumped all the brake fluid out. Replaced, went again at 74k. Original disks [front] replaced at 105k.

Watch for the rear seats not folding down, not sure of the cause but there are a few threads. Just make sure nothing gets in the hinges.

Window regulators are another one, not durable.

Brake light switches are known to cause some electrical problems, an easy fix.

The rear and headlamp bulb holders are not good, if you find blowing bulbs replace the holders.

Tyres are a funny one, I have to kepe mine up at about 38psi, Pirelli P6000. Lots of discussion on tyres elswhere.

 

[jberks]

Let me know if you find an easy fix to the dash. I agree that I think it's loose connections, only thing is that I suspect that it's loose connections inside the actual panels. It's no more than an annoyance, dronsfield quoted me £200 for the new dash, god knows what's required to fit it though, so I'll leave alone till I'm feeling a bit flush (or desperate to know the time).

Impressive - now Dronsfield have them and you can get them fixed. 18 months ago when I wanted to fix mine, no one could help or wanted to know. Every enquiry I made regarding a used one was met with sorry or silence.

To fit them is a doddle. You just need someone to reprogram the new one with the data from the old one. Lots of firms will do the 'mileage correction' for a tenner or so though the programming on these may be more complex in which case you may need an indie. Physically fitting it is a doddle as its just a push fit. 20 mins tops. I did strip mine down but couldn't fix it or find the offending connection, at least without serious risk of damaging the remaining working components. My experience is that it gets gradually worse over time. I could no longer read the clock or temp/gear displays at the end. Initially it did 'dry out' if you ran with the heater and air con on for a few days but that didn't last in my case. Hopefully the 211 dash will be a little more reliable.

 

[Kallisti]

...list of possible problems

Thanks for that OlafMaxwell.... Some things to watch out for. If only I'd read up on the brake switch problem I'd have saved myself £70.

I'll be calling local MB about the rust next week. Second user genuine exhuast coming today, fitting tomorrow. I'll do the glows too then or next week (need to find time to pick some up!).

Display corruption I'll have to live with for now. Adding extra oil every once in a while is fine, Book suggests that it's made 18k or so between services and heading that way again this time.

Is there a good service manual available for these? You say the dash is easy to replace, it'd be nice to know which screws or which points I had to lever out

 

[Kallisti]

Watch for the rear seats not folding down, not sure of the cause but there are a few threads. Just make sure nothing gets in the hinges.

I'm suffering from a fair collection of the problems, and now this one too. Only taken them down twice, now the lever catch on the driver's side isn't raising the lock. I'm off to look for those threads, see if there's a solution, major reason for having the E class estate is load carrying. Had to make 5 trips to the dump instead of 2 or 3 yesterday because of it...

Can't find any threads on the subject, can someone direct me?