Nuts & Bolts Spec

CG3004

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Hi There!

I’d like some advice please, I’m having aftermarket alloys replaced with originals before I sell. I’d like to be sure of the correct nuts and bolts before I order them.

M14, 1.5mm thread, 17 spanner, 45mm length (sound about right?!)

Are they radius or tapered head?

Thank you!
CG
 

Woodleigh

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The correct wheel bolts for Merc alloys are M14 x 1.5mm pitch. Shoulder Radius as per the photo of my locking wheel bolt for Merc alloys.
Tapered is for steel rims

OAL (overall length) is not that important...The thread length to shoulder is very important; too long can give you major problems.

IMG_1374.jpg
 
OP
C

CG3004

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Hi Woodleigh,
Thank you for your help!
These look very different from the part Mercedes have said I need, do you have the same model as mine? (ML) but then again they also told me tapered when others have told me radius. So confused!
I’ve attached the picture but he said he thought the image was of a tapered bolt but I think it’s radius?
Many thanks!
CG
 

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Woodleigh

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The one in my picture is the correct bolt for Merc light alloys on my W205 C Class
 

Solarwinds

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I recently had to buy 20 bolts different from OEM as I fitted some spacers.

Sent These people on Fleabay my VIN and they told me what I needed, good value bolts though do shop around.
 

mioba

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I wouldn't buy something as safely important as wheel bolts off ebay for tge sake off saving a few quid.

Original bolts are not cheap thats true but ebay is full of scandalous fake item sellers.
 

Woodleigh

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I wouldn't buy something as safely important as wheel bolts off ebay for tge sake off saving a few quid.
Absolutely. buying "MB" wheel bolts on eBay probably made from monkey metal
 

EmilysDad

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I wouldn't buy something as safely important as wheel bolts off ebay for tge sake off saving a few quid.

Original bolts are not cheap thats true but ebay is full of scandalous fake item sellers.
was it OK to buy second hand OE bolts for my ML to replace the locking bolts & those that had their stainless cap missing? ;)
 

Blobcat

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was it OK to buy second hand OE bolts for my ML to replace the locking bolts & those that had their stainless cap missing? ;)
You didn’t have the little case with the OE wheel bolts in the boot with the locking bolt removal tool?
 

EmilysDad

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You didn’t have the little case with the OE wheel bolts in the boot with the locking bolt removal tool?
I did. But I used them {rattle guns at tyre places bu66er them up) , & removed the rusty locking bolts cos they looked horrible

;)
 
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Flyinspanner

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…..and completely avoid “tuners bolts” often bought for looks as they are coloured…..

they are often adonized aluminium and mostly are cheap, little structural integrity, often strip their threads as you tighten them. Read some horror stories around them on another forum.
(luckily they don’t seem to be as fashionable now)
 

Blobcat

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…..and completely avoid “tuners bolts” often bought for looks as they are coloured…..

they are often adonized aluminium and mostly are cheap, little structural integrity, often strip their threads as you tighten them. Read some horror stories around them on another forum.
(luckily they don’t seem to be as fashionable now)
Very popular on sports bikes back in the 90‘s - until bits started falling off like footrests and seat mounts…:eek:
 

EmilysDad

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a lad at work had a CLK that had aftermarket alloys on it. He'd had it for quite a while, regularly serviced at a local garage etc. He happened to remove a wheel & discovered that each wheel bolt was only threaded into the hub by a couple of threads. :shock:
 

mioba

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I did. But I used them {rattle guns at tyre places bu66er them up) , & removed the rusty locking bolts cos they looked horrible

;)
shame on you.
Yes your purchase is approved. Your use of rattle guns is questionable mind
 

mioba

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A reason I am saying is use genuine dealer bolts is I recently changed some wishbones on my sisters car (needed the hubs loosening) and new bolts fitting. Replacement new hub bolts from GSF (Febi) snapped when torqued up (30NM then 80NM) on both ****** sides. I was lucky enough to get a locking wrench on them and undo them.
A trip to Ford for new bolts (they were 2x the price at 8 quid each) and they went in and torqued like butter.

I then went for 4 wheel alignment and the rear camber bolts were rust welded in. The alignment place said they wont do the job in fear of snapping the bolts. I said I will clean them up and plus gas them for 2 weeks and replace - whatever you do he said go to Ford and get bolts from there.

Its the same OEM or dealer debate. Leave it there.
 

EmilysDad

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..... Your use of rattle guns is questionable mind
I don't use them & ban tyre places from using them on my car too. I just dangle the bag of stainless caps under their nose when they question me ;)
 

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