Oil level is high! Please help.

[ahmadsharbaji]

Hello! I hope you all have a happy new year! I have (W203 C230 Sport 2007 V6 M272).

I changed the engine oil + filter three weeks ago. The car takes 8L and I applied precisely 8L.

After two weeks, I noticed:

1. Some oil in the coolant reservoir
2. Some steam smoke from the hood of the car where the coolant reservoir is located.
3. The coolant level decreased.

It was the oil cooler messing up!
At that time I noticed the oil level was higher than before on the dipstick! It is like 1.5 (cm) above the red plastic mark!

2 days ago, I replaced the oil cooler with a new one, flushed the cooling system, and applied a new coolant/antifreeze.

I understand the oil cooler issue caused an increase in the oil pressure (as I read), but why after fixing the problem the oil level still high now?

Please tell me what to do. Because I've read a high oil level will cause major problems and may damage the engine!

Another wide question, * do I need to change the oil too? *

Regarding the picture, my oil level is above number (1) at around ~1.5 (cm).

 

[Blobcat]

8ltr is from completely empty, you’ll never get it completely empty on an oil change.

Best thing for an oil change is to measure what you take out then put a similar amount back in and check the dipstick and add more to get it to the right level.

In your case you’ll need to remove some oil to get it to the right level, sucking it out the dipstick tube is the easiest method.

 

[Uncle Benz]

I would change the engine oil immediately. It’s possible that although the higher oil pressure when the engine was running was pushing oil into the coolant it can go the other way when the engine is switched off. You may well have coolant in the sump

 

[ahmadsharbaji]

8ltr is from completely empty, you’ll never get it completely empty on an oil change.

Best thing for an oil change is to measure what you take out then put a similar amount back in and check the dipstick and add more to get it to the right level.

In your case you’ll need to remove some oil to get it to the right level, sucking it out the dipstick tube is the easiest method.

Thank you for the response. Looks like I must change the entire oil!

 

[ahmadsharbaji]

I would change the engine oil immediately. It’s possible that although the higher oil pressure when the engine was running was pushing oil into the coolant it can go the other way when the engine is switched off. You may well have coolant in the sump

Thank you for the response. So you do believe I have coolant with the oil itself now, and changing the oil will solve the issue where we drain together the oil and the mixed coolant? I will ASAP! Do I need to flush the engine? Or changing it is enough?

 

[brandwooddixon]

Thank you for the response. Looks like I must change the entire oil!

Run the engine to warm the oil. Draining out a litre of oil, let it stand for a while to cool down and then check to see if any water droplets separate out of it.
If none seen then check the oil level and top up as required.

It's easier to check if you put some of it into a pyrex measuring jug (being heat resistant and transparent).

 

[MBW201]

MB is super easy changing oil and filter vs most others car makes, buy a suction pump and send hose down the pipe for the measure stick, and yes it empty it complety. Remember to have running warm oil or you get trouble with suction, best of all no one mess up drain plug! In this case with overfill it would make it easy to remove a little vs draining all.

 

[ajlsl600]

If I had reason to believe water in oil I wud drain, flush , refill. Before running the motor

 

[oigle]

If I had reason to believe water in oil I wud drain, flush , refill. Before running the motor

And oil filter too.....

 

[Botus]

high oil level issues come with how high it is and high engine revs...

if its 1/2 litre over and you never get within 1000 rpm of the red line most engines would never know
if its 2 1/2 litres over and you find the red line then its not sensible, the rings won't clear the bores enough and its forced past the rings to burn and CATs and the planet gets damaged (however if you drove under 3k rpm u might never know)
5 litres over you might have no room for the piston to come down the bore and it mechanically destroys everything as you get a hydraulic lock - it can even irrevocably distort the engine block

for example (my four stoke 805 cc V twin OHC Suzuki motor bike that only takes 1500cc of engine oil - without my knowledge dumped 6 litres of super unleaded in the bottom of the engine (I know I later measured it all coming out of the sump plug), so before knowing this, upon start up for 4 minutes revving to at least 5500 rpm I had 7.5 litres of liquid in the bottom of the tiny engine - and extraordinarily its managed to get over itself !!! the amount of petrol managing to come out the carbs, exhausts and engine breather and seemingly everywhere else was a lot of work to clear up...

that's general guidance - every model of every car / bike is unique - sump design, the physical volume under the pistons, the engine breather, how much oil gets sloshed around and how the driver goes about things, impacts how each one behaves

the general theme everyone else is sharing, is contaminated engine oil is a great way to destroy an engine - yet its a cheap, easy fix - so never hesitate

...but for me the oil cooler issues you mention is critical - if you have not resolved why engine coolant is getting in to parts of the engine it shouldn't - this must be resolved before starting the car again (any coolant loss even if external will just get you overheating...).

Only when you know you have stopped the cross contamination, is it worth swapping the oil... (unless desperate to use the car - and accept it may cost you 5k for this trip where you may well not reach the end destination) and before you set out you can see an emulsion (cream gunge rather than clean oil) on the dipstick or around the oil filler hole

 

[MBW201]

high oil level issues come with how high it is and high engine revs...

if its 1/2 litre over and you never get within 1000 rpm of the red line most engines would never know
if its 2 1/2 litres over and you find the red line then its not sensible, the rings won't clear the bores enough and its forced past the rings to burn and CATs and the planet gets damaged (however if you drove under 3k rpm u might never know)
5 litres over you might have no room for the piston to come down the bore and it mechanically destroys everything as you get a hydraulic lock - it can even irrevocably distort the engine block

for example (my four stoke 805 cc V twin OHC Suzuki motor bike that only takes 1500cc of engine oil - without my knowledge dumped 6 litres of super unleaded in the bottom of the engine (I know I later measured it all coming out of the sump plug), so before knowing this, upon start up for 4 minutes revving to at least 5500 rpm I had 7.5 litres of liquid in the bottom of the tiny engine - and extraordinarily its managed to get over itself !!! the amount of petrol managing to come out the carbs, exhausts and engine breather and seemingly everywhere else was a lot of work to clear up...

that's general guidance - every model of every car / bike is unique - sump design, the physical volume under the pistons, the engine breather, how much oil gets sloshed around and how the driver goes about things, impacts how each one behaves

the general theme everyone else is sharing, is contaminated engine oil is a great way to destroy an engine - yet its a cheap, easy fix - so never hesitate

...but for me the oil cooler issues you mention is critical - if you have not resolved why engine coolant is getting in to parts of the engine it shouldn't - this must be resolved before starting the car again (any coolant loss even if external will just get you overheating...).

Only when you know you have stopped the cross contamination, is it worth swapping the oil... (unless desperate to use the car - and accept it may cost you 5k for this trip where you may well not reach the end destination) and before you set out you can see an emulsion (cream gunge rather than clean oil) on the dipstick or around the oil filler hole

How its possible to fill petrol in the oil chamber? New for me that its only 1,5liter oil in a 805cc, 600cc is about 3liters. C50 have 3,4l.

 

[Botus]

on a motorbike the tank is above the engine (usually) and its (usually) gravity fed to the engine....

with the joys of ethanol rotting the fuel tap diaphragm, it decided that 10 litres of fresh super unleaded should go downhill... the posh brand new engine oil I'd just changed sat there happily saying come on down lets have a party

between possibly going in to the cyls and past the rings, and or into the carbs out the back, in to the airbox where it probably found the stupidly placed engine breather at the very bottom, at least 6 litres went in there - I had no idea that had happened in the week since I'd last rode it

I later discovered the 10 litres of petrol I'd just bought had ALL gone and I got 6 litres out the engine sump... plus a good litre all over the drive when it fired up... I was sitting there thinking stupid bike - the other cyl will fire up soon (in a great design feature one carb is gravity fed the higher one has a pump) - so it often doesn't start well on two cyls till the higher carb gets some fuel... so there I was fiddling the throttle, managing the accelerator pumps and the choke on a hot summers day with it being more of a recalcitrant pig than usual -

after a few mins (even rolling down the drive ready to leave) I thought...its never taken this long to settle and looked down between my legs to see shells' interpretation of "niagra super unleaded falls" and some of it bubbling and steaming off the hot exhausts - when I thought ah better turn it off then

 

[MBW201]

on a motorbike the tank is above the engine (usually) and its (usually) gravity fed to the engine....

with the joys of ethanol rotting the fuel tap diaphragm, it decided that 10 litres of fresh super unleaded should go downhill... the posh brand new engine oil I'd just changed sat there happily saying come on down lets have a party

between possibly going in to the cyls and past the rings, and or into the carbs out the back, in to the airbox where it probably found the stupidly placed engine breather at the very bottom, at least 6 litres went in there - I had no idea that had happened in the week since I'd last rode it

I later discovered the 10 litres of petrol I'd just bought had ALL gone and I got 6 litres out the engine sump... plus a good litre all over the drive when it fired up... I was sitting there thinking stupid bike - the other cyl will fire up soon (in a great design feature one carb is gravity fed the higher one has a pump) - so it often doesn't start well on two cyls till the higher carb gets some fuel... so there I was fiddling the throttle, managing the accelerator pumps and the choke on a hot summers day with it being more of a recalcitrant pig than usual -

after a few mins (even rolling down the drive ready to leave) I thought...its never taken this long to settle and looked down between my legs to see shells' interpretation of "niagra super unleaded falls" and some of it bubbling and steaming off the hot exhausts - when I thought ah better turn it off then

Thats really unlucky incident, been riding for over 30years never experience same. I always turn off fuel tap when not in use and other bikes have fuel pump that will not let this happen. If fuel tap dont work the next step is the carb and the bowl with float that stops fuel from overflowing cylinder, if you have problem with float it pours out the overflow pipe.

 

[Botus]

the possibility of a big bike with a large fuel load pressing down the relatively small carbs floats, on multi cycl bikes, is why they invented the vacuum fuel tap, engine off you just have the weight of the fuel in the small hose, vacuum pulls the diaphragm and allows fuel to flow once the engine has started, thus you are always off when the engine is off... except when mr ethanol messes up the world

as far as I'm aware NO suzuki bandit aged bike (let alone any 80's bike) was built with bits in the fuel tap, carbs or pumps (if they have one) that has rubber that knew how to handle that sh*t ethanol

the next bit of insanity - there is no prime position on the bike's fuel tap - I even got a genuine user manual off ebay to help me understand ...and it just deoesn't have what it needs ?

 

[sonic]

on a motorbike the tank is above the engine (usually) and its (usually) gravity fed to the engine....

with the joys of ethanol rotting the fuel tap diaphragm, it decided that 10 litres of fresh super unleaded should go downhill... the posh brand new engine oil I'd just changed sat there happily saying come on down lets have a party

between possibly going in to the cyls and past the rings, and or into the carbs out the back, in to the airbox where it probably found the stupidly placed engine breather at the very bottom, at least 6 litres went in there - I had no idea that had happened in the week since I'd last rode it

I later discovered the 10 litres of petrol I'd just bought had ALL gone and I got 6 litres out the engine sump... plus a good litre all over the drive when it fired up... I was sitting there thinking stupid bike - the other cyl will fire up soon (in a great design feature one carb is gravity fed the higher one has a pump) - so it often doesn't start well on two cyls till the higher carb gets some fuel... so there I was fiddling the throttle, managing the accelerator pumps and the choke on a hot summers day with it being more of a recalcitrant pig than usual -

after a few mins (even rolling down the drive ready to leave) I thought...its never taken this long to settle and looked down between my legs to see shells' interpretation of "niagra super unleaded falls" and some of it bubbling and steaming off the hot exhausts - when I thought ah better turn it off then

Fortunately didn't have your problems, but at the end of the year I fill my FJR with super unleaded while its parked up over the winter.

 

[MBW201]

Fortunately didn't have your problems, but at the end of the year I fill my FJR with super unleaded while its parked up over the winter.

I always empty tank in winter time, rinse and bike stays in warm place!Offcourse after stripdown and Q tip cleaning Lets not highjack thread anymore with bikes and petrol, its about oil and cars

 

[sonic]

I always empty tank in winter time, rinse and bike stays in warm place! Lets not higjack thread anymore with bikes and petrol, its about oil and cars

Us bilkers must stick together!

 

[MBW201]

Us bilkers must stick together!

Agree Nothing compares, i have driven amazing cars but cant beat the feeling when i pull the throttle on MC Forgot to mention that Yamaha makes amazing bikes and have always done it Thumps UP! Easy to maintain and still have original parts for sale for the oldtimers is great!