Oil sump need your thoughts

[Dycer]

How do i remove the oil sump on my motor,got a crack in it after a fight with a hole in the road. All help and thoughts welcome motor on drive way and cant move as to no oil

 

[television]

I think that it would be best if I print out the instructions for you

 

[BlackC55]

i think thats engine out job?

 

[Dycer]

I think that it would be best if I print out the instructions for you

Thanks Malcolm it could not have come about at a worst time meant to be going on hols next week

 

[Dycer]

i think thats engine out job?

I hear support the engine from top end with beam, drop the sub frame and slide out in front of gear box but need some form of guidance on this

 

[television]

This is a 210 ?? yes

 

[television]

I have sent the instructions,,if you need any other info on anything just ask,,there are many sub pages that I can print off

 

[Alex Crow]

in our workshop removing engine complete with transmission would be the preferred method. if it`s a hole in the cast aluminium sump then a careful application of chemical metal will prove a 100% repair, without sump removal! best method for diy or proffesional as is very cost effective compared to sump removal.

 

[Radar100]

Hi, I have done a sump change on a w211 320 diesel and it is a pig of a job to do. As previously stated, you need to support the engine from above and lower the subframe and even then it is still very fiddly to get the sump out and the new one in!

 

[Dycer]

Cheers for all your thoughts lads and to Malcolm for the information sent.
Would like to replace the lower sump but if a chem fix would do this would save time.

 

[television]

As long as it is clean,,they will do a good job

 

[wireman]

I once upon a time managed to crack a 190 sump, similar scenario bump in road with tree brach across it.

My in situ repair lasted for 2 years 'till I scraped the car due to severe corrosion of the sills etc.

Here's what I did:-

Clean the sump outside and inside, use plenty of whte spirit poured down the dip stick hole so that only the sump gets it. Do it several times to get the most oil away as is practical.
Allow the solvent to drain and dry off, I allowed a week for this.

Drill small holes (1-1.5mm) at the ends of all the cracks to terminate any stress lines.
Scour and roughen the outer surface of the damaged area.

Rinse and dry with more solvent a fast drying one will help (for this I used toluene but I dont think you can get that anymore).

Be certain that there is no oil on the surfaces.

Use one of the slower curing epoxy resin glues (they are stronger and slightly more heat resistant) to coat the surface around and in the cracks then apply a mesh reinforcment to hold the epoxy patch in one piece, I used the perforated alli stuff they sell for bodging up body/rust holes.
Coat the surface again with epoxy and apply a polythene sheet atop of the entire repair.
Press up against the polythene with cushions or foam or whatever you have to keep the mesh patch intimately in place over the repair, allow the epoxy to cure fully.
Remove the suporting cushion and peel off the polythene.

Refill with oil and hope. If you get it oil free it will work.

 

[OlafMaxwell]

Brings back memories of motor cycles and cast aluminium sumps. I had the misfortune to crack and break a piece out of the sump on an expensive four cylinder all aluminium Honda engine. Of course a replacement part was not in stock. Anyway a product called Araldite and afterwards some applied heat did the trick. I did get to remove the sump though, but of course meant it was immobile. Luckily my mother was out as the heat was applied in the oven. The repair worked excellently. If you can access the sump a chemical repair should be fine, if you are uneasy a cover pice can also be put over the repair as a security.