overpainting POR15

turbopete

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2009
Messages
14,209
Reaction score
331
Age
49
Location
Spennymoor
Your Mercedes
2017 '17' Ford Mondeo 2.0TDCi ST Line X 180 (sorry)
quick and easy question. has anyone tried this with any success?
 

television

Always remembered RIP
Joined
Mar 14, 2005
Messages
164,073
Reaction score
377
Age
89
Location
Daventry
Your Mercedes
2002 SL500, 216 CL500, all fully loaded
If I understand so Pete, it says that it takes any primers and base coats. Are you having problems using it
 
OP
turbopete

turbopete

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2009
Messages
14,209
Reaction score
331
Age
49
Location
Spennymoor
Your Mercedes
2017 '17' Ford Mondeo 2.0TDCi ST Line X 180 (sorry)
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #3
no i havent tried it yet. im going to attack the bodywork on the old girl soon as its starting to annoy me! i was going to find a supplier, grind off oldrust, treat with POR15 then paint if its possible. i got some of the stuff you can buy anywhere for my last tidy up job and wasnt that impressed with it. i plan keeping the merc a while so dont want to have to keep re painting it, and due to having very little work at the moment, replacement wings and rear arches are out of the question. alsogota couple of bad spots on the bonnett the boot lid and the rear door bottoms have some small blemishes too! followed by gallons of waxoyl! :lol:
 

television

Always remembered RIP
Joined
Mar 14, 2005
Messages
164,073
Reaction score
377
Age
89
Location
Daventry
Your Mercedes
2002 SL500, 216 CL500, all fully loaded
We did have a lot of things like Krust, etc, they were supposed to be converters that turned the rust into metal if you can believe that. The POR stuff is very different and it does have a good name
 
OP
turbopete

turbopete

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2009
Messages
14,209
Reaction score
331
Age
49
Location
Spennymoor
Your Mercedes
2017 '17' Ford Mondeo 2.0TDCi ST Line X 180 (sorry)
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #5
it was kurust i used last time. waste of time in reality! im going to give it a go and see what its like then. cant look any worse than the rust bugs holding hands all round my car! im sure i will be able to find suppliers on the internet. the rust and the air in fuel situation are the 2 jobs im desperate to nail. after that its just little niggles lke a bulb out here, a bearing adjustment there, things that arent desperate and wont cost the earth and wont require me commandeering my dads garage and robbing my air compressor back! lol
 

SilverSaloon

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2004
Messages
721
Reaction score
0
Your Mercedes
w124/1994/om606
i've been using POR-15 on my R107 restoration. Its good stuff. Make sure you clean and treat the rusty area 1st with Metal Ready and Marine Clean and then ONCE COMPLETELY DRY apply the POR-15.

any top coat can be applied over it. their chassis black paint (i've not used it myself) is suppost to be very good but i used hammerite to top coat some of the stuff. if the POR-15 is not exposed to the sunlight then it doesnt even need top coating
 
OP
turbopete

turbopete

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2009
Messages
14,209
Reaction score
331
Age
49
Location
Spennymoor
Your Mercedes
2017 '17' Ford Mondeo 2.0TDCi ST Line X 180 (sorry)
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #8
im thinking of using it on my wheelarches, bootlid, bonnet etc where stonechips etc havent been touched up and im now left with bucketloads of rust so i want to paint it smoke silver! (car colour)! metal ready and marine clean? are they some kind of pre treatments made by the same company? ive got to admit, id never heard of POR15 untill it was mentioned somewhere in a thread here!
 
OP
turbopete

turbopete

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2009
Messages
14,209
Reaction score
331
Age
49
Location
Spennymoor
Your Mercedes
2017 '17' Ford Mondeo 2.0TDCi ST Line X 180 (sorry)
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #9
just looked it up on the link provided. no cheap stuff but much cheaper than new body panels! and easier than replacing and blending rear arches! looks like a job for summer!
 

SilverSaloon

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2004
Messages
721
Reaction score
0
Your Mercedes
w124/1994/om606
frost.co.uk sells marine clean, metal ready and por-15
 
OP
turbopete

turbopete

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2009
Messages
14,209
Reaction score
331
Age
49
Location
Spennymoor
Your Mercedes
2017 '17' Ford Mondeo 2.0TDCi ST Line X 180 (sorry)
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #11
cheers. thats where i looked it up. getting on for £45 for a pint bottle of the three altogether, plus any postage charge. cheaper than a cheap wing, and when i need all 4 arches done bootlid and bonnet stonechips (untreated and now badly rusted) sorted, i guess its kind of a bargain!
 

lyndonri

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2006
Messages
102
Reaction score
0
Location
Cardiff
Hi Turbopete

How did you get on with the POR 15? I am currently researching rust treatments and I ave also found Epoxy Mastic 121 from Rustbuster.

Does anyone have any convincing arguments for either product?

Thanks
Lyndon
 

SilverSaloon

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2004
Messages
721
Reaction score
0
Your Mercedes
w124/1994/om606
Hi Turbopete

How did you get on with the POR 15? I am currently researching rust treatments and I ave also found Epoxy Mastic 121 from Rustbuster.

Does anyone have any convincing arguments for either product?

Thanks
Lyndon

POR-15 is more of a rust sealer. you need to treat the rust first and then coat with POR-15. i have overpainted mine with success (so far). i have noted that filler doesnt bond very well to it though.
 
OP
turbopete

turbopete

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2009
Messages
14,209
Reaction score
331
Age
49
Location
Spennymoor
Your Mercedes
2017 '17' Ford Mondeo 2.0TDCi ST Line X 180 (sorry)
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #14
i got the starter kit with all the pre treatments in the kit and an instruction leaflet explaining how to use it with filler etc. up to press, it seems fine! VERY hard stuff when its dry. i wouldnt want to be sanding it away by hand! i finished the job about 4 weeks ago, and unlike the rust converters from halfords etc theres no sign of it returning. unlike the last time i used a rust converter!
 

megah0

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2008
Messages
143
Reaction score
0
Location
Birmingham
Your Mercedes
E300 Diesel...now with less dents!
Yeah, it dries rock hard, I used some to patch up a bit of rust in the boot floor, the drain areas etc and its pretty good so far, also treated around the boot lock and simply sprayed it after smoothing, doesn't look perfect but its miles better than a big rusty bubble.
 

Dosco

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 14, 2006
Messages
3,942
Reaction score
5
Age
83
Your Mercedes
W211
i used it loads on my 107 restoration. on the wing repair (that hasnt bubbled yet!) and on the bumper irons. see the blog for pics/details:

http://r107restoration.blogspot.com/

Just visited your 'blog' and have to say how impressed I am at the outcome of your labours, all good stuff and so many useful tips to those of us who are nervous to say the least at tackling such a project.

Well done young sir - now a question or two:lol:

I need to repaint the front bumper plastic inserts on my W210/E240, they are badly chipped so after rubbing down to remove the pitted area and to cut through the lacquer what primer should I use prior to final colour application and then what about rubbing down to remove any knibs etc what sort of grade of wet and dry paper.

After treating cleaned metal with POR-15 What primer would need to be used to cover the area prior to final colour and lacquer?
 
OP
turbopete

turbopete

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2009
Messages
14,209
Reaction score
331
Age
49
Location
Spennymoor
Your Mercedes
2017 '17' Ford Mondeo 2.0TDCi ST Line X 180 (sorry)
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #18
i used ordinary primer on my bumper insert and the por15. you must apply a mist coat of primer to the por15 when it gets 'touch dry' ie tacky, then leave to dry properly. then apply a proper coat of primer and flat down. i used 800 grade wet/dry paper, using it wet.

for de-knibbing, id use 1500 wet and dry at the most coarse. 2000 or even finer would be better.

thats my method, at any rate.
 
Top Bottom