Parking brake pedal not fully returning up

[d215yq]

To update in my case lithium grease on the pedal mechanism and aimed loosely at the mechanism under rear of car (just parked on kerb and crawled under so couldnt be too exact) seems to have helped...now takes 2-3 seconds for light to go out automatically instead of 2-3 minutes and some help with the foot. There was no hole or flap at all under the seats in my car.

 

[mercmancdi]

On my E class there was a swivel bracket in middle near rear where the 2 cables split , there was a ratchet on mine I let the bracket off a bit and oiled and greased clicked the ratchet on off a few times to free it and then readjusted and this solved my problem of light not going off.

 

[Auto Addict]

Thanks for all your replies, sorry if I've hijacked this thread.

 

[Auto Addict]

Right, nice sunny day, been underneath it (C Class W204 2013 Estate).

Nothing to lubricate or adjust underneath (or under rear seat).

Removed the underpan on the dash (3 torx screws) didn't have to disconnect any electrics, lubricated all moving parts with silicone spray.

Seems a lot easier now, time will tell.

Thanks again for all your advice.

 

[Auto Addict]

Well the good news is it's working OK this morning.

Need a cold day.

 

[Capra]

Right, nice sunny day, been underneath it (C Class W204 2013 Estate).

Nothing to lubricate or adjust underneath (or under rear seat).

Removed the underpan on the dash (3 torx screws) didn't have to disconnect any electrics, lubricated all moving parts with silicone spray.

Seems a lot easier now, time will tell.

Thanks again for all your advice.

If mine plays up again I will have to apply your fix. Good work.

 

[Auto Addict]

An update, day 2 and it's releasing with one pull with a nice hearty thump.

 

[Auto Addict]

OK, the car had been standing for 2 days.

It took two pulls to release the brake, so I haven't cured it as I thought.

Wondering it I should use something like GT85 on the mechanism under the dash instead of just PTFE spray?

 

[mercmancdi]

I don’t know but am wondering is the problem further back , perhaps in one or both rear drums disc , I had an e class and it was sticky , I was so fed up I took wheel off and turned wheel and plastered inner works of hub through the hole trying to hit around the springs etc with w d , I know this is not ideal as far as handbrake holding but , I kept at it and put handbrake on off several times and resprayed a load in around everything
It did free it up ok but few wks later needed to take drivers side off and free and grease properly,

 

[Capra]

OK, the car had been standing for 2 days.

It took two pulls to release the brake, so I haven't cured it as I thought.

Wondering it I should use something like GT85 on the mechanism under the dash instead of just PTFE spray?

Apparently you can adjust the position of the rear pads for the foot brake, there should be a small hole and inside the mech on each wheel. Mine was done at the Indie but not sure exactly what they did.

 

[LostKiwi]

Here's how it's done:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techar...tment/137-BRAKES-Parking_Brake_Adjustment.htm

 

[Droverunner]

AutoAddict I looked up the parts diagram for your car type and see it has an arrangement of rear cables that negates need for a compensator under the seat... but its an arrangement where any friction in the cables or lack of a positive spring back inside the handbrake drum will give rise to a lack of return at the pedal end.

If the problem continues I'd be thinking of uncoupling the cables from each other to see if one or more is less than free moving then looking inside the drum to make sure that's all moving OK.

 

[Auto Addict]

AutoAddict I looked up the parts diagram for your car type and see it has an arrangement of rear cables that negates need for a compensator under the seat... but its an arrangement where any friction in the cables or lack of a positive spring back inside the handbrake drum will give rise to a lack of return at the pedal end.

If the problem continues I'd be thinking of uncoupling the cables from each other to see if one or more is less than free moving then looking inside the drum to make sure that's all moving OK.

Thanks, I'll try to have a look at the drums, sprained my wrist at the minute so it may be a while.

 

[Auto Addict]

Back to square one, parking brake sticking again.

When my wrist heals, I'll have a go at the rear drums.

I've been using 3:1 silicone spray, which seems to go 'off' quickly.

Anyone recommend a better one?

 

[Blobcat]

Back to square one, parking brake sticking again.

When my wrist heals, I'll have a go at the rear drums.

I've been using 3:1 silicone spray, which seems to go 'off' quickly.

Anyone recommend a better one?

Wurth make some decent silicone spray

 

[LostKiwi]

GT85 is probably better than silicon as it contains an oil based lubricant. If you can work it in engine oil is best as it stays put pretty well.

 

[Auto Addict]

GT85 is probably better than silicon as it contains an oil based lubricant. If you can work it in engine oil is best as it stays put pretty well.

Thanks, I'll get some and try it.

 

[joern]

I have a s124 300 TD, 1991 and I just came across this post... And my problem is similar. The footbrake pedal doesn't retract properly, so I have to pull it towards me for the red footbrake light to go off. There is also no access panel underneath the rear seats. I understand that there is a cable linkage that needs greased? But is it something I can access - and do - without putting the car on a ramp? I have removed the panel in the footwell in order to have a look to see if there was anythign wrong there with the pedal itself, but this seems OK. And I can see that the cable is just not retracting properly.