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Granit

Granit

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Mercedes ML 270 CDI W163 Special Edition
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Hi John,

I really have no clue how those AMG badges and decals ended up on the car in many many places.:)

Hi Oigle, tonight I will take a picture of normal low beam, low beam with fog lights, low beam, high beam and fog lights.

Then I will take a picture with just the light bar on and you can’t believe the kind of light output it produces.

Then I will take a picture with all the lights on and it basically makes night into day.:shock:

Sometimes people on the motorway or two way country road at night refuse to turn off their high beams so I just hit them with the light bar and that teaches them a lesson.;)

Thank you

Kind Regards

Granit
 

oigle

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2003 ML270 sold but not forgotten. 2022 Kia EV6 RWD LR
Yep. Have a light bar on one of mine too but yours is longer. Mine is a Cree. What sort is yours? They come in many levels of quality. Of course, my usage is more outback roads with animal issues ('roos and the like) Turn it off elsewhere. They are certainly great lights.
 
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Granit

Granit

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Hi Ian,

Yes it’s practical to have one, in England only if you live in the country side you would rarely use it let alone in the city.

In the outback I’m 100% sure that you need a light bar sometimes.

Mine is MICTUNING 42 Inch 240W CREE Chip LED Bar Combo Beam Curved Work Light for Offroad Tuck Trailer Auto Motor Boat 4WD 4x4 SUV ATV,24-Month Warranty https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01EXXWFJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_r7JQAb9PQWFQ1

I bought it from amazon for a fair price as it seemed it is the best quality and the right size.

All are cree LED chips however on each end of the bar it has three rows of spot lights I guess to give you a better side light.

Thank you

Kind Regards

Granit
 

oigle

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Best thing about them is the 180° of very bright light. Most extra lights concentrate on distance ahead. When watching for animals etc, side vision is critical. Yours sounds the goods.
 
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Granit

Granit

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Hi Ian,

Yes the 180 degree light does make a difference, not had a chance yet to take pictures at night.

However I will when I get the chance.

Thank you

Kind Regards

Granit
 

Taffy7hfa

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2002 ML 270 CDI,2016 Hyundai1.6 CRDI i30,2014 Peugeot 308 HDI. .6 HDI.
The rear light clusters are nice, also, What are the lights just below the headlights ?
 
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Granit

Granit

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Hi Taffy7hfa,

Thank you, they really pop in the night please see picture below. ;)

They are day time running lights,

I can send you a link from amazon link is:

2 X Xenon White Black Ultra Thin 17CM Car Daytime Running DRL Fog COB LED Light ( Light Source Color : White ) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01M4HCMTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_igeRAb5NE05B4

There are many of these on the market, I have found that these are the most hard wearing out of all of them.

They have been on for a year and I have never had a problem with these lights.

The only reason I stuck them under the headlights is because I did not think of a place where to place them.

1st picture is tail lights, the camera is not capturing the actually clarity of the lights.
25F91071-AD7F-4A71-8DA8-4618E5FC1B39.jpeg

2nd picture is low beam, DRL and side lights.

F7CCCB09-4B05-48B5-9B20-7A56F8DBA980.jpeg

3rd Picture, highbeam and fog lights including lights from 2nd Picture.

DB0A4F20-7EF4-444E-BD40-45569532881A.jpeg

4th Picture full on, light bar sort of makes the other lights look dim from the power.

642492EC-84EB-4CA2-9015-6F0258914310.jpeg

5th Picture is low beam,

9346C9F5-62D9-4453-854D-FD8CD8ED38D6.jpeg

6th low beam, high beam and fog lights

C0FB1C89-CD28-42C1-BC7C-E4A7EF527F21.jpeg

7th full on, note how the light bar lights up the trees which are quite far away in the distance.

E32EE153-F7DD-48AD-BFCF-A0679E305DEF.jpeg
 

Blackstock

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Hi there,

My first post and I really hope someone can help me on this problem.

Right, Yesterday which was Sunday, I thought I would take off the Turbo intake pipe and clean it.

So I started by opening up the air filter box taking the air filter out, note that the air filer had sort of deformed out of shape around the middle, it was where the hose is that leads to the MAF. I cleaned all this up cleaned the metal netting just before the MAF.

I proceeded to take out the turbo intake hose and clean it, there was a hose attached to the intake hose it is a line from the engine I think.

So I cleaned everything and put everything back, and closed the bonnet and drove home perfectly fine.

The next morning which is today, got in the car, the car started perfectly fine and I drove to work. Now the problem started when I was in a 40MPH zone all of a sudden the car lost power(not pulling normally) I could see smoke in my mirror, The car was not responding to the gas pedal, the more I pressed the pedal the more black smoke was being produced and the car was not pulling.

I stopped and I was trying to figure out what had happened I knew it was something to do with what I had done the day before which I just regretted. I just thought to take a look at the air filter which I was so stupid to place back the previous day. The air filter had sort of risen in the deformed place and looked like it was going in the hose where the MAF is connected.

So what I did is take out the air filter and closed the air filter box back with no air filter, I started the car and it seemed to be okay however it did not seem it's normal self. So I drove to work and left it there I never though anymore of it.

So now it comes time to move my car I start it up and at this moment the car in on park, I gave the car a few revs to see if it is fine and it does not respond well to the revs, and then all of a sudden the car seems like it choking so the engine is choking and stalls.

Now I have no idea to what this could be, when I rev a lot of smoke is coming from the back of the turbo where it is connected to the cat. A lot of smoke comes from the exhaust pipe and the car seems like it is choking

My suspicious is that maybe some material from the air filter went through the net and hit the turbo blades and damaged the turbo. or maybe the MAF is not working. could this be a MAF problem which I hope it is, or could this be a Turbo problem which to be honest I think it is. other than these to things I cannot see any other things being wrong.

I can upload pictutes of the turbo blades if needed so someone can tell me if they need replacing. the turbo blades have mm movement and the blades spin fine when I spin it with the fingers.

Please someone help, I will not drive the car as I do not want to damage it anymore.

I hope I made sense.

Thank you

Granit

In my experience the initial problem might be material of sort on the intake side of the filter. I had a similar experience with a peace of a used plastic shopping bag that was blown up on the road. The engine is chocking and hence the filter deformation as it allows for slight airflow and the vacuum can be substantial on low rpm on these diesel engines. The turbo being small and variable spins quick. What ever blockage there were, with the air filter removed vacuum increased and sucked the material through to the turbo intake. The smoke is there because the injectors is pumping diesel to accelerate the engine but there is not sufficient air to burn all the diesel or at a very rich setting is in order at least then.

If you are lucky, the material might have been to big to go through the compressor blades of the turbo completely and might even still be stucked in the compressor intake directly before the turbine. If it went through, it will restrain the compressor severely if not braking it completely and hence no air flow to the engine. Indeed the compressor blades are fragile and moving at horrendous speeds so they will be damaged beyond economical repair if material found their way to them and surely through the compressor housing.

I will start by checking and ensuring all piping from outside (air intake entry point) up to the compressor intake is clean and without any restrictions.

Either side of the turbo you should be able to spin the turbo main shaft easily with a quick push from your index finger on either the compressor or exhaust side turbine. I accept that you understand that the later should rather only be done with the turbo unit removed from the engine with the turbo unit resting on a steady platform. To many variables that can cause fingers and hands to be lost too.

Hope I could be of assistance. Good luck

Blackstock
 
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Hi Blackstock,

Thank you for the information.

I appreciate it.

The problem has been fixed and the cause of the initial problem was the seal ring which attaches to the rear of the turbo. The seal ring which was in place was completely destroyed, this was causing the loss of power and the black smoke from both the turbo and the exhaust.

I removed all components to get to the catalytic converter, I removed the two metal clips holding the catalytic converter to the turbo and the down pipe. I replaced the two seal rings, one on the turbo and one on the down pipe. I gave the CAT a very good cleaning, I used multiple cleaning products and gave the cat good wash with a powerful jet wash.

I dried the CAT using a industrial dryer, the dryer fit very snug into the down pipe side pushing the hot air through the CAT.

I placed everything back together, now the car goes like a dream. It is surprising that the car does not produce any black smoke at all as I see many many diesels producing massive amounts of black smoke and it’s all down to poor maintaince of the car.

In the near future, I am planning to remove the inlet manifold and give it a very good clean as I can only imagine the state it is in. This will allow the engine to breath more and enhance the life of the engine and I guess help MPG and performance.

I am also planning to perform a EGR delete, I have read up on this but I have no idea how to perform this delete. I believe it is only a electrical change to close the EGR valve on the ML. I would also like to know if there is any downside from closing the EGR valve. Will this affect the car in any bad way?

Thank you

Granit
 

oigle

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Hi Blackstock,

Thank you for the information.

I appreciate it.

The problem has been fixed and the cause of the initial problem was the seal ring which attaches to the rear of the turbo. The seal ring which was in place was completely destroyed, this was causing the loss of power and the black smoke from both the turbo and the exhaust.

I removed all components to get to the catalytic converter, I removed the two metal clips holding the catalytic converter to the turbo and the down pipe. I replaced the two seal rings, one on the turbo and one on the down pipe. I gave the CAT a very good cleaning, I used multiple cleaning products and gave the cat good wash with a powerful jet wash.

I dried the CAT using a industrial dryer, the dryer fit very snug into the down pipe side pushing the hot air through the CAT.

I placed everything back together, now the car goes like a dream. It is surprising that the car does not produce any black smoke at all as I see many many diesels producing massive amounts of black smoke and it’s all down to poor maintaince of the car.

In the near future, I am planning to remove the inlet manifold and give it a very good clean as I can only imagine the state it is in. This will allow the engine to breath more and enhance the life of the engine and I guess help MPG and performance.

I am also planning to perform a EGR delete, I have read up on this but I have no idea how to perform this delete. I believe it is only a electrical change to close the EGR valve on the ML. I would also like to know if there is any downside from closing the EGR valve. Will this affect the car in any bad way?

Thank you

Granit

The very long thread by dieselman is full of info on the delete for the EGR. Other than obviously increasing the NoX emissions, all effects of the delete are positive - better throttle response, more boost at lower revs, better fuel economy, a clean inlet manifold, no sticking EGR with accompanying black smoke.
A competent indi can do the job under an hour if he has done it previously. Parts are pennies. Alex Crowe is well versed as are some others. Check the indies that contributed to the thread by dieselman for knowledgeable indies.

Ian.
 

LostKiwi

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2nd picture is low beam, DRL and side lights.
Can you do everyone a favour and wire the lights to turn off the DRLs when headlights are on?
By their very nature DRLs are not directional and scatter light in all directions causing serious dazzle to other road users at night - especially drivers of low slung vehicles.
You don't need DRLs at night.
 
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LostKiwi

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Just to add to the above:
Daytime running lamps ECE-R48 section 6.19 and ECE-R87
Presence ECE-R48 § 6.19.1 Mandaory for all passenger car classes.
Number ECE-R48 § 6.19.2 2 units
Color ECE-R48 § 5.15 White
Position in width ECE-R48 § 6.19.4.1 Min. 600 mm between the two daytime running lamps, but min. 400 mm for vehicle widths < 1,300 mm.
Position in height ECE-R48 § 6.19.4.2 Min. 250 mm, max. 1,500 mm.
Visibility ECE-R48 § 6.19.5 Horizontal ± 20°. Vertical ± 10°.
Electrical connections ECE-R48 § 6.19.7 Automatic activation when the engine is started. The daytime running lamps must switch off automatically if the headlamps or fog lamps are switched on.
Tell-tale ECE-R48 § 6.19.8 Optional

The above is the relevant ECE regulation regarding DRLs - I've highlighted the bit you need to take note of.

More here:
https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/daytime-running-lights/daytime-running-lights
 
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Granit

Granit

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Hi LostKiwi,

Thank you for the information.

I will wire this into place.

Thanks

Granit
 

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