Please help - problems with my SLK230K

griddlebone

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Hi all, I'm pretty new here and I'm in need of some desperate help.

Ive just been driving my P reg slk230k and it was really really sluggish. I was struggling to get it over 40mph, this was really worrying as it's normally a flying machine. I then had to slow down at a round and it started shaking and I had real difficulty pulling away again - this has happened twice in teh past two weeks but I just put it down to being cold. The sluggishness has never happened before though. I managed to get it up to 50 but that was a real struggle. I then pulled into a car park to ring my boyfreind in a complete panic. I switched the engine off and when I pulled away everything was fine, I went thru a 30 zone, 50 zone and 60mph and back to a 30 zone and back to teh office, without any problems whatsoever.

Does anyone have any ideas of what coudl be going wrong? Gearbox fluid? gears slipping? something on the engine?:confused:
 

Blobcat

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MAF Airflow meter?
 

AJL44

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Chaps. This is my other half's car. I've had a drive and and it seems that it is actually a problem picking up the gear properly when kicking down. It feels like it doesn't want to pickup the lower gear so just revs its self silly, seems like it's almost getting the gear then losing it causing the engine speed to vary rapidly. Lifting off the throttle seems to sort it.

It isn't doing it all all the time so I'm thinking along the lines of it maybe being low gearbox fluid level, clogged filter or something?

Any advice appreciated.

Cheers.

J.
 

Cole@MBS

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First thing is to check the oil level, if thats ok then maybe a oil/filter change might help,

A hook up on a star machine would'nt go a miss!!
 

AJL44

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First thing is to check the oil level, if thats ok then maybe a oil/filter change might help,

A hook up on a star machine would'nt go a miss!!

Cheers for the reply.

How does one check the gearbox oil level? I've done it on my old SEC but the book for the SLK says nothing about it and the dip-stick top says "MB Service station only" and appears to have a funny lid that doesn't remove without special tools.

What's star machine?
 
A

andy@pcd-ltd

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It has a tamper proof tab on the cap but you can buy these through mercs. You snap the tab off and then push the other bit through and then pull the cap off. But you will need a dipstick that you get through mercs as it is a special tool from them and check the oil that way.
A star machine is the diagnostic machine that mercedes use.
A good independant should be able to check the oil for you and may even have a star machine
 

Cole@MBS

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Willow nailed it there,

If you grab that anti-tamper cap and give it a good pull, it will come of without breaking!!
 

television

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This will be the engine output down due to the MAF,,you could unplug it and try the car it may not prove it but often will even if the idle is a bit rough
 

star

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The MAF can also make the gearbox "hang" its gears due to not allowing the engine to produce the correct power to facilitate a smooth change.
 

AJL44

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The MAF can also make the gearbox "hang" its gears due to not allowing the engine to produce the correct power to facilitate a smooth change.

Cheers, didn't realise that.

Where's the MAF? If I just unplug it, should that cure the problem if that is what's at fault?
 
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Alex Crow

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i am sure you are all barking up the right tree here. the maf sensor on this car is particularly prone to oil contamination, and usually responds to cleaning. i would point out that the o/p describes cylinder shut down in the first post, expect p030* codes, but could still be due to oily maf sensor. we very often get this description of a gearbox problem that turns out to be a maf fault, especially on the slk for some reason...
 

AJL44

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Cheers guys. I shall try that tomorrow when it's light and report back.

Is it still a good plan to do a box oil and filter change too, given that it appears never having been done and these things aren't, apparently, maintenance free as they were supposed to be?
 

AJL44

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Right, been out for a drive the sensor both connected and disconnected and the problems definitely seem to disappear when disconnected.

Two questions;

If it needs a new sensor what sort of price is it?

From the diagram, the part needed seems to the whole unit with the tube; can the sensor its self be removed for cleaning by taking out the two torq screws which appear to hold it in?

Cheers,

J.
 

pjtynan

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i am sure you are all barking up the right tree here. the maf sensor on this car is particularly prone to oil contamination, and usually responds to cleaning. i would point out that the o/p describes cylinder shut down in the first post, expect p030* codes, but could still be due to oily maf sensor. we very often get this description of a gearbox problem that turns out to be a maf fault, especially on the slk for some reason...

Does this apply to all SLK engines inc. the 320?

Thanks
 

television

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The cheapest way to get a replacement is to buy the insert that fits inside your plastic casing,, the maff is only a short thing and pulls out from the pipes on each end.

The insert should cost about £57 from any Bosch service center,,,f you buy it complete,,then£157
 

AJL44

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The cheapest way to get a replacement is to buy the insert that fits inside your plastic casing,, the maff is only a short thing and pulls out from the pipes on each end.

The insert should cost about £57 from any Bosch service center,,,f you buy it complete,,then£157

Cheers,

Yes, I've seen the whole unit is about that price from Bosch. Others makes seem considerably cheaper. You can get them off Ebay for about £35 delivered.

Anyway, I've cleaned this - although it didn't seem all that dirty - and it seems to be running a tad better. Will try it again in the morning when it's been standing in the cold over night and see if it's still ok.

What are the consequenses of just disconnecting it permanently? I'm presuming things like greater thirst and possible CAT damage???
 


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