Polishing a car!

[landover]

You can buy all the zymol products from [X S motorsport ] They do the full range .

 

[peterchurch]

cheers guys

 

[maddog]

A lot of people going to extremes here. I valet a lot of cars for people. I wouldnt use a electric polisher on a metallic car there shouldnt really be the need. I use one for cutting back paint on old cars and its great, £139.99 from Screwfix if you care to look, but i reckon you would only need one every 6 years or so.

On my own i use autoglym super resin polish and then the extra gloss sealer. If i havent washed it for a while i would use MER as the "harsh chemicals" are good for getting off fly squash and tar etc.

I've used MER on cars and motorcycles for years and never harmed the paintwork. But i wouldnt see the need to use it every weekend but if you use any good quality polish you wont need to. MER is especially good on colours which are prone to fading ie yellows, reds , blues.

FWIW I polish my own car about 4-6 times a year.

 

[MM]

From experience - and with a few friends in the car trade - the best stuff to use is something called 3M Hand glaze - I'm not sure who makes the product - i'll have to check - but it leaves the car looking like a mirror !

Its expensive at about £20 a bottle - but this bottle has lasted me over a year - so i guess its worth it.

used by professional spray painters - after recent resprays - brings out the best !

And easily applied !

MM

 

[peterchurch]

This seems to be a good process
would be good to find a clinic like this in the UK !

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2409

best regards,

Peter

 

[maddog]

called 3M Hand glaze - I'm not sure who makes the product -

MM

3M by chance??

Screwfix do that stuff BTW.

 

[AAPete]

I didnt know what to do when I first posted, now I am totally confused...

 

[Richard Murray]

Polishing isn't for the faint-hearted. If you want to do a professional job, allow at least 6 hours to complete.

Once you've valeted your car properly - maintaining a showroom shine is relatively easy by 'topping up' every 3 months or so.

Firstly wash the car. Use a general shampoo without wax additives. If the car paint feels rough - then chances are you have tar spots, insect residue, tree sap, general road film and bird droppings, all of which are corrosive. To remove this - use soft lint-free cloths dipped lighly in petrol. For obvious reasons - use latex gloves, and renew as they tear or disintegrate. Apply in a circular motion and avoid pressing too hard.

Don't be impatient and try to work a panel at a time. Areas that have surface scratches, marks and general scuffs can be treated seperately with T-Cut or Scratch and Circle Remover (Turtle).

Now the hard work. Get a bucket of hot water and soak a few cloths. Choose a decent wax. I can personally recommend Teflon, as it's particulalry easy to buff to a shine without any dusty residue. Again working a panel at a time - work your way round the car, applying the wax on the damp cloth. This will avoid scratches and is easier to apply. Again using fresh cloths - clean off 'applied areas' and polish in a circular motion. There shouldn't be any streaks or haze.

At the very end - pay attention to bumpers, window rubbers, door strips, etc. Any excess polish can be removed with Methilated Spirit.

You need a well-ventilated garage and plenty mugs of tea.

If you can afford it - try Zymol polish.

Richard

 

[turnipsock]

Sorry to put a fly on the woodpile, but isn't it unlucky to clean you car?

 

[sclass]

Polishing isn't for the faint-hearted. If you want to do a professional job, allow at least 6 hours to complete.

Once you've valeted your car properly - maintaining a showroom shine is relatively easy by 'topping up' every 3 months or so.

Firstly wash the car. Use a general shampoo without wax additives. If the car paint feels rough - then chances are you have tar spots, insect residue, tree sap, general road film and bird droppings, all of which are corrosive. To remove this - use soft lint-free cloths dipped lighly in petrol. For obvious reasons - use latex gloves, and renew as they tear or disintegrate. Apply in a circular motion and avoid pressing too hard.

Don't be impatient and try to work a panel at a time. Areas that have surface scratches, marks and general scuffs can be treated seperately with T-Cut or Scratch and Circle Remover (Turtle).

Now the hard work. Get a bucket of hot water and soak a few cloths. Choose a decent wax. I can personally recommend Teflon, as it's particulalry easy to buff to a shine without any dusty residue. Again working a panel at a time - work your way round the car, applying the wax on the damp cloth. This will avoid scratches and is easier to apply. Again using fresh cloths - clean off 'applied areas' and polish in a circular motion. There shouldn't be any streaks or haze.

At the very end - pay attention to bumpers, window rubbers, door strips, etc. Any excess polish can be removed with Methilated Spirit.

You need a well-ventilated garage and plenty mugs of tea.

If you can afford it - try Zymol polish.

Richard

You sound like a parrot .This has all been said above Have you looked at all previos posts and then took a piece from each and made one yourself.

 

[classicsl]

is this too good to be true?

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=10169&ts=49043

good value, not too powerful (worried about polishing a hole into my bodywork!!)

 

[peterchurch]

seen some thing like it in B&Q the weekend (power pro) Problem with it is that you need to know what you are doing with them or you could damage the car.
The Porter Cable / Meguires models have dual acton which makes it harder to damage the paintwork and thus fit for beginers...

 

[Spike]

No, these type of polishers are next to useless.

I myself made the mistake of buying one and found that I get the job done fatser by hand.

 

[classicsl]

i am coming to the conclusion that they might be a waste of time, plus i can imagine its easy to damage your car with a nice heavy plug swinging around as you buff off all the paintwork.

i was hoping to use one on the rear quarter panel of my 300sl as the paint has oxidised and i thought a vigourous polish would help to bring it back to the original finish, looks like a respray required!

 

[classicsl]

am i being dumb, cant seem to find polishers on the porter cable website, and the us one doesnt allow uk despatch. probably just me, having one of those days, and how much do these cost?

 

[Spike]

am i being dumb, cant seem to find polishers on the porter cable website, and the us one doesnt allow uk despatch. probably just me, having one of those days, and how much do these cost?

Yep, you are a little

If you look at page one of this thread, you'll see I posted a link to mbclub discussing this very issue.

 

[Russel Weston]

If you lot fancy working on cars for long time, invest in a compressor. Air tools and a quality orbital sander. I find the orbital sander works perfectly with a lambs wool bonnet. At 40-50psi if you put just a fraction too much pressure on the sander, it slows and stops. That way you can be sure you are not damaging the paint. The sander is also so much lighter than an electric alternative saving your arms and shoulders.Make sure you suspent the air hose from the roof of your garage though, otherwise it rubs on the freshly polished paint. After using Autoglym for a long time I have just started using zymol, and have to confess I cannot see any difference between them. Regards

 

[Spike]

After using Autoglym for a long time I have just started using zymol, and have to confess I cannot see any difference between them. Regards

Which Zymol are you using... the cheap one from hellfrauds or the proper +£40 flavour?

The real stuff produces no dust whatsoever and polishes off with absolute ease.

 

[Russel Weston]

Spike, I have the Halfords stuff. Did you get yours over the net. I will check on the Zymol website.
Regards

 

[sclass]

Why bother polishing a car its just transport not a way of life. :roll: