Then (if its the same as other Mercs) you need to slacken off the adjuster, put the belt on, tighten adjuster until belt tightens up, then finally tighten main 17mm tensioner bolt. Don't over tighten the adjuster or you'll snap it. Feel the play on the belt before you take the old one off and tighten the new one up to the same play.
Changed the belt this afternoon, and followed hmang's instructions which were spot on (thanks).
When I released the tension on the belt I just moved the 17mm nut anti-clockwise as instructed. I didn't undo any nuts on the tensioner. When I got the belt off I released the tensioner (slowly) and it moved over to the far right under its own spring pressure. Put the new belt on, and again moved the tensioner to the left. Slipped the belt over the tensioner, and gently released the tensioner which took up all the slack in the belt. Didn't tighten or re-tighten any nuts, or check play in the belt. I assumed that this tensioner just relies on the spring pressure to keep it in contact with the belt. Ran the engine and drove the car, everything seems OK.
Just had a look at the Haynes book of lies for my old C250TD and the tensioner is a completely different arrangement (with a big bolt and spring attached to the top of the engine). The C250 does not refer to nuts being re-tightened or checking play in the belt, so I assume this tensioner also relies on spring pressure to take up the slack in the belt.
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