Possible turbo issue?

Abey

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Hi, my first post so be patient with me! I’ve had an issue with lack of power and it’s resulted in the engine warning light coming on. The mechanic that we normally use for service etc has put it on his Snap-On diagnostics and is getting 3 error codes 2510, 2616 & 2032. He also ran it through his Launch as well and got the same result.
He has basically said that because it’s showing all three it would be best to get it diagnosed by someone more specialised in Mercedes as he could replace the sensors etc that are showing as faulty but that it could still need a new turbo at the end of it. I appreciate his candour and trying to save me money but does anyone have any experience of these coming all at once?
Hope someone can help…

all the best
Abey
 

Wighty

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Hi, my first post so be patient with me! I’ve had an issue with lack of power and it’s resulted in the engine warning light coming on. The mechanic that we normally use for service etc has put it on his Snap-On diagnostics and is getting 3 error codes 2510, 2616 & 2032. He also ran it through his Launch as well and got the same result.
He has basically said that because it’s showing all three it would be best to get it diagnosed by someone more specialised in Mercedes as he could replace the sensors etc that are showing as faulty but that it could still need a new turbo at the end of it. I appreciate his candour and trying to save me money but does anyone have any experience of these coming all at once?
Hope someone can help…

all the best
Abey
Where do you live buddy ? So an MB specialist can be recommended. He is trying to help , because MB diagnostics will be more specific, especially in the hands of someone that knows what they are doing
 

mersum1es

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And more help or suggestions may come if you write descriptions of codes (even they are usually bit gibberish compared to 'SDS languange'). I never bother to react P2467 or P2255 quastions...

But generally, turbo related fault codes can be anything in boost line, MAF, MAP, back pressure, boost leak, EGR leak, DPF in diesels, swirl flaps, turbo actuator... that's why MB specialist is a good call.
 
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Abey

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Where do you live buddy ? So an MB specialist can be recommended. He is trying to help , because MB diagnostics will be more specific, especially in the hands of someone that knows what they are doing
Near to Rugby.
 
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Abey

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LostKiwi

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Looks like actuator failure probably down to oil dripping out the batwing seal.

I'm going to guess the highlighted one is current and the other two stored.

In the event a fault code is thrown to generate limp mode the turbo will be limited in how much boost it can generate by the ECU. It can do this via the turbo actuator or by limiting the throttle opening.

Turbo actuator failure isn't uncommon.
 

mioba

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Welcome to the forum OP. Stick around on this great forum.
Your garage is very honourable in suggesting an Indy. This is a must for MB cars. In experienced hands an Indy could see those codes and be pinpointed to the issue at hand based on his experience of the cars and how the codes together to a specific component.
Perhaps use google or the like to find an indy or someone will suggest soon.

Mercland have been around a long time, they do maintenance and sell cars so are fond of the brand. Never used them, but they have been mentioned here for years.

Keep us updated on the progress
 
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mioba

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Looks like actuator failure probably down to oil dripping out the batwing seal.

I'm going to guess the highlighted one is current and the other two stored.

In the event a fault code is thrown to generate limp mode the turbo will be limited in how much boost it can generate by the ECU. It can do this via the turbo actuator or by limiting the throttle opening.

Turbo actuator failure isn't uncommon.
do you mean swirl flap LK
 
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Abey

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Thanks for all your comments, apologies for the short replies earlier - I was in a meeting!
Anyway, I have a local garage that I’ve used before with BMWs tomorrow that is going to have a look, if there’s no joy there I’ll certainly contact Mercland as suggested. Everyone seems stacked out though - I contacted a garage in Leicester which had replaced the turbo in 2005 under warranty (apparently they fitted three, two which were non-Mercedes parts as instructed by them and finally a Mercedes part!) but they couldn’t even look at it until end of next week. Once again thanks for your contributions, at least I have some understanding which hopefully means there will be a better outcome. I’ll let you know how I get on.
 

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Abey, are you at all practical to do any tinkering yourself ?
 
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Abey

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Abey, are you at all practical to do any tinkering yourself ?
Hi Wighty, I’m afraid my mechanical capabilities stopped at changing starter motors on Mk1 Cortina’s!
 

AnthonyUK

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I never fail to be amazed at the depth on knowledge available from members here.
I do like to read these technical threads even without a need so well done guys.
 

Wighty

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Hi Wighty, I’m afraid my mechanical capabilities stopped at changing starter motors on Mk1 Cortina’s!
Shame , I was going to say if you were handy you could take off the exhaust back pressure sensor and spray clean the tiny hole on its underside .
Remove the turbo actuator (3 bolts and a split ring) spray clean the inside , check the small wires for breaks and refit .

Both free jobs
 
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Abey

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Hi all,
I decided to cancel the local garage and took it straight to Mercland - they put it on Star and got code Y771 which they have said means a new turbo with actuator and new intake motor. Cost £1500. Would it still be worth taking your suggestion Wighty and getting my normal mechanic to do those recommendations? Or is it just likely that I’ll pay for those to be done and then still have to get a new turbo?
 

Wighty

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Hi all,
I decided to cancel the local garage and took it straight to Mercland - they put it on Star and got code Y771 which they have said means a new turbo with actuator and new intake motor. Cost £1500. Would it still be worth taking your suggestion Wighty and getting my normal mechanic to do those recommendations? Or is it just likely that I’ll pay for those to be done and then still have to get a new turbo?
That’s a tough one buddy , the specialists don’t really go down the route of not replacing actuators separately and you can’t blame them because they need to fix the car and not have it return a few months later .
The actuators do gunge up a bit with carbon from the motor inside and they also sometimes get a break on the small wires that leave the internal wiring board . There is plenty on youtube for this .
If it were me and you can’t do it I think it might be worth an hours labour for your local garage to spray clean the inside of the actuator with electrical cleaner and put a tiny amount of high temp grease on the worm gear .

With the intake motor , I presume that it is the motor which controls the swirl flaps that is playing up ? If it is , there is a shortcut for that as well which involves putting a 4.7k ohm resistor (£1?) between the middle two terminals of the plug that supplies the inlet motor . This tricks the car into thinking that the motor and swirl flaps are working correctly . This is very common fix for the om642 engine (I’ve done it as well) .

I would be surprised if the local garage couldn’t do all this in under 2 hours .

It goes without saying that the correct fix is as Mercland has said , but this is also a forum for people that try and save each other money so you takes your chances and hopefully don’t pay your money .
If you can change a starter motor you could do this work yourself by the way
 

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Wighty

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No throttle body:

Item 190 can control boost as well.

On the diesel the throttle has no role in boost pressure control. It is normally open and is only closed or partially;
To create a manifold depression and thereby a greater pressure differential across the EGR, useful at low engine speeds when the exhaust pressure is low.
Reduce shut off shake.
As Safety device in the event of a run away.
To reduce efficiency and therefore increase load for service regens.
 


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