problem with electric windows

[mr. serious]

Hi all, NEWBIE here!!

I have a problem with my CLK 320 W208 coupe, whereupon the passenger window-on CLOSING, closes, then opens again...

When the button is depressed all the way (second stage), it closes fully, then comes back down about 3 inches and stops. I then have to press to close again (first stage) to fully close it.

It was a known fault when I bought it and as its only me in the car, I could live with it until I had time to have a look at it. BUT now the DRIVERS SIDE has started doing it...!

I have been through the threads regarding this but can only find one close to this problem, and have tried the rectification process just now, but the problem still exists.

There are no signs of rubbing or fouling and the window motors sound in excellent order. Is there some kind of limit switch on the coupes?

Any help and advice would be very much appreciated.

Thanks,

Ian

 

[Razi]

I had this problem on my old Mistubishi Lancer. Electric windows have anti-trap mechanism which opens them when resistance is felt by the motor. I sprayed the rubber runners with suitable grease. Make sure that grease is suitable for rubber parts as otherwise it could cause damage. Halfords sell one that doesn't leave any residue. I used it generously, open and close the window a couple of times and job done. Opening the window all the way with your finger on the button (not using the auto open option) and then closing it after 5 seconds in the same manner resets the motor. Try that first as that is also one of the known methods of solving this problem.

 

[Devonian]

Is the problem constant or intermittant? If it's intermittant try operating the windows with headlights on and off. I had a similar problem with mine where the window would go part way up and then reverse though not all the time. I discovered it was much worse at night when the lights were on, leading me to suspect the battery. Checking it's voltage showed duff. Replacement cured the problem

 

[jberks]

what fix have you tried as it does sound like the normal reset issue - take it all the way up then hold the up button in for 10 seconds.
If it's not that then I'd agree that it does sound like it's detecting some resistance and triggering the anti trap mechanism.

 

[television]

Always check the battery voltage before diving in, should be 12.5 volt before you start the car.

Other than that do as JB re set the windows, if the battery is low voltage, it can lose these settings

 

[mr. serious]

Thanks for the replies fellas.

Devonian, the problem is not intermittent, it is all the time. Razi, yes I see what you mean by the anti-trap feature, but I'm sure there is little resistance, the windows are extremely smooth, but of course MY version of smooth may differ from that of what the sensor is reading, or finds acceptable...

Regarding the reset procedure here is the procedure I followed... http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/showthread.php?t=23845&highlight=electric+window+problems

And I will most certainly check the voltage when I get to work tonight. Perhaps if the voltage IS correct, would it be worth disconnecting it for a few minutes, THEN once re-connected performing the reset procedure?

Thanks again,

Ian

 

[hawk20]

Had the same problem. Mechanic at MB dealer said, first run the engine and leave it running so you reset with full normal running voltage. Now, two positions on window switch. One is auto and sends window all the way down. Don't use that one. Use the position that lowers till you let go of switch. Take window right down and hold for two seconds. If quiet, you will hear click of relay. Then raise window right to the top -again using the position that stops when you let go. Hold two seconds. You may hear the relay click. Now it is reset. It worked for me.
If problem persists there is resistance somewhere probably in the track.

 

[mr. serious]

Cheers Hawk.

I checked the battery voltage and its 12.76v, which I think is quite normal. I did the reset procedure as described by Hawk, engine running etc, but still no change!

So, looks like I'm pulling the doors apart this weekend then!!

Thanks,

Ian

 

[mr. serious]

Here's an after thought I've just had... I've been talking about the windows RE-OPENING AFTER their CLOSURE, ie. coming back down about 2-3 inches and stopping. IF it WAS the anti-trap mechanism jumping in, WHY is it doing it once the windows have CLOSED?

Surely the assumed detected resistance triggering the anti-trap mechanism would be activated BEFORE the FULL closure of the window. The ATM (anti-trap mechanism) would then send it back down from the detected point. NOT AFTER the window has reached its FINAL resting place?

Surely the whole point of the ATM is to PREVENT something being squashed, not let it get squashed once the window has CLOSED and THEN re-open the window... to reveal the squashed item??!!!

Any further thoughts...?

 

[television]

Your windows have to be de normalized on STAR D or by unplugging the door control module for 5 mins or disconnecting battery 5 mins. before you can re set

The glass should only compress the rubber by 1mm

give it a go, I do have more info

 

[Ellsy Tanners]

Hi,

These dcm's had a problem with there softwere which counts the hall sensor signals from the motor. It is a certain sotfwere satus which was effected, the Q status which is writen on the side of the dcm. i cant recall which Q status is effected.
if you do have this Q ststus then you will have to replace the dcm's as they are non programable and the fault will be temporaraily cured by reseting but will come back.
i will check which Q status is faulty and report back

 

[television]

Hi,

These dcm's had a problem with there softwere which counts the hall sensor signals from the motor. It is a certain sotfwere satus which was effected, the Q status which is writen on the side of the dcm. i cant recall which Q status is effected.
if you do have this Q ststus then you will have to replace the dcm's as they are non programable and the fault will be temporaraily cured by reseting but will come back.
i will check which Q status is faulty and report back

I have looked at this bit and it is for earlier cars

 

[Ellsy Tanners]

Just asking, how did you find out wot year his car is?, he hasnt posted that info as far as i can see.

 

[television]

Just asking, how did you find out wot year his car is?, he hasnt posted that info as far as i can see.

Sorry it was not the year it was the overall description that fitted the bill, it could be the one that you say that goes up to 05-01

Its on AF72.29-P-6004A on this one it just says that window opens again.

On AF67.30-P 6001B it says the windows drop 5cm thats what I put up-

Not easy is it

 

[Ellsy Tanners]

Right i see, I dont have any wis to refere to so going by memory, its hard to be that specific. good job ur here mate

 

[television]

Right i see, I dont have any wis to refere to so going by memory, its hard to be that specific. good job ur here mate

you are worth more than me with your firsthand knowledge

 

[Cnics]

Mr Serious.

What if the Anti Trap device is seeing the top of the window (as it presses against the top to seal) as a finger or other device that shouldn't be there. A simple mechanical wear on a component over time could mean that the travel being picked up by this device could alter. If this were the case, when the window reached the top, it would push against the rubber and the anti trap device would trigger and drop the window by the stated amount.

I'm no expert on this i'm just trying to look at things logically.

Rob

Edit: this of course is an alternative to the electronic aspect of it where by the range in which the Anti trap device works needs goes out of line and needs to be reset.

 

[television]

Mr Serious.

What if the Anti Trap device is seeing the top of the window (as it presses against the top to seal) as a finger or other device that shouldn't be there. A simple mechanical wear on a component over time could mean that the travel being picked up by this device could alter. If this were the case, when the window reached the top, it would push against the rubber and the anti trap device would trigger and drop the window by the stated amount.

I'm no expert on this i'm just trying to look at things logically.

Rob

Edit: this of course is an alternative to the electronic aspect of it where by the range in which the Anti trap device works needs goes out of line and needs to be reset.

This is why I came up with the un reset so that they can be set correctly, it could still be as Elllsy Tanners

 

[BlackC55]

Exactly Malcom. This is the correct remedy.

But..... In the dealer we used to get this problem ALL THE TIME. The remedys are:

1. De-normalization then re-normalization.
2. Lubricate window rubbbers
3. Replace door control module with latest part number (last resort)

 

[television]

Exactly Malcom. This is the correct remedy.

But..... In the dealer we used to get this problem ALL THE TIME. The remedys are:

1. De-normalization then re-normalization.
2. Lubricate window rubbbers
3. Replace door control module with latest part number (last resort)

Thank you Black very much, that would tie the two worksheets together.