Problems with Mercedes 190E Auto

[greenapple]

Hi,

New to the Merc scene! I have recently bought a 1991 190E 2.0 which is in really good condition, its had service history up to two years ago but nothing since, so I had it serviced and also had a new battery installed.

Problem: The car, when reversing, seems to hesitate almost like it is going to stall, if you select N, or P the revs pick up again. This problem also accured when turning a corner this evening, seemed like it was going to stall and did so when reversing onto my drive.

I contacted the chap I bought it from (a local dealer) and he thought it might be the battery, wrong type?

Any thoughts would be helpful!

Thanks
Paul

 

[Xtractorfan]

I seem to remember something about those cars being fitted with a device which increased revs when the gears were selected, to stop the engine from cutting out, due to the pull on the torque convertor.. Car is running free.no brakes binding or anything like that??

 

[star]

I seem to remember something about those cars being fitted with a device which increased revs when the gears were selected, to stop the engine from cutting out, due to the pull on the torque convertor.. Car is running free.no brakes binding or anything like that??

This was on very early cars, this one would have an idle valve, make sure all your breathers are clean, inc those under the inlet manifold, clean idle valve and make sure its free, clean throtle venturi and rest co2.

 

[greenapple]

Thanks for info,

Drove it to work this morning and the problem is now worse, same thing is now happening in forward gears, stalled on a very nasty right hand turn! Seems to get worse as the engine gets up to normal op. temp.

 

[greenapple]

Hi,

There is also an intermittent hissing noise (like a p/steering hiss when on full lock) when turning corners, not there all the time.

Any ideas much appreciated.

Paul

 

[Baldrick123]

I had a 190E that had exactly the same problem. It turned out to be something called a "Hall Sensor" ,I think. The binicle had been replaced in the car and it hadn't been connected. I believe the sensor makes sure the revs are correct at slow speeds and stop.

Andy

 

[wireman]

If its not your idle control (electronic and powered through the OVP relay) perhaps its a vacuum leak?

Try examining the hose from the inlet manifold to the servo booster and any other small (4mm) nylon pipes which connect from it to the various vac powered systems (heater controls and head lamp tilt) on the car. The rubber joints on the small pipes can get degraded. Listen for hissing when you bend them.

 

[greenapple]

OK, the saga continues. Spent an hour this afternoon checking all the pipes/hoses for possible leaks, checked air filter housing, couldn't see any problems or hear any hissing noises.

Took it out for a 10 mile run, 5-6 miles was fine although very slight hesitation when pulling up a hill. slowed down at a roundabout, fine. Got to a right hand turn, stalled and a pig to start again.

On way back got to a roundabout, having done about 1.5 miles since the stall, very hesitant when pulling/accelerating away from the roundabout, coughed and spluttered a bit then cleared and was OK for next 4 miles, accelerating through auto box and picking up speed from 50-60mph as one would expect.

Was OK when stopping and turning into home road and pulling onto drive, left it ticking over and also checked putting into reverse, no problem. Kept ticking over for a few minutes and revving occasionally, all OK, tried reverse again and it stalled!

Have it booked into a garage on Wednesday, but any other pointers would be much appreciated.

Thanks
Paul

 

[meanie]

Might be worth checking the coil,cap & arm, & H/T leads.

 

[greenapple]

Only happens when the engine gets up to normal temp, if it was electrical wouldn't it be there all the time?

Paul

 

[wireman]

Electrical faults can be (and often are) heat related.

 

[greenapple]

Hi all,

Thought I had cured the problem, had the idle valve reset, and cleaned and also removed the foam insulation from the air filter cover which was breaking up and probably being sucked into the air intake, doesn't help!

Car was fine for a couple of days, then stalled a couple of times, then was OK for a couple more days, also had cleaner sprayed into the carb during this time.

It has now started stalling again but as before it never happens when the engine is cold only when it reached normal op temp. The car pulls fine when travelling at speed this only ever happens when the revs drop below 10 on the rev counter, idle can sometimes be erratic.

Any other ideas, this is putting me off Mercedes cars!!

Thanks
Paul

 

[teddycatkin]

Hi Paul -Sounds like fuel starvation as it does not happen when cold and on a richer mixture- when was the fuel filtre last changed ?
( could be a simple bockage )or a loose electrical connection --Garage check should narrow it down.

 

[roofless]

i think it could be the vac pipe from the regeneration valve or the valve stuck open ? this will kick in when the thermovalve opens at temp http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.as...717.411412&CT=M&cat=504&SID=14&SGR=120&SGN=06

 

[greenapple]

Hi all,

Well the car finally broke down completely! Its turned out to be the distributor cap, had that replaced along with new leads and for the last couple of weeks it been OK - let's hope it stays that way!

Thanks
Paul

 

[television]

Hi all,

Well the car finally broke down completely! Its turned out to be the distributor cap, had that replaced along with new leads and for the last couple of weeks it been OK - let's hope it stays that way!

Thanks
Paul

Pleased it is fixed,, many do not want to change these things owing to the price,,but new dizy caps can work wonders as in your case

 

[GTKE21]

Mercedes 1990 190E stalling problem

Hi All,

I have been reading the problem associated with the 190E from Greenapple and all the member replies with interest, I have a very similar problem with my 1990 2ltr 190E which has my mechanic in a tail spin.
The car is like new with 130K and has been very well maintained, recently it dies / stalls when I come to a stop or near stop without any indication here it will restart again without problem. This only happens when the car is warm and is very non specific ie no real pattern except for the temperature of the engine being normal.

It is like all the electrics are cut or the ignition system fails but restarting the car is no problem. I have had the car at an auto electricians without success and my mechanic is at the end of his patience. Again it only happens when I'm at stop or near stop with brakes being applied. Any dot point checks that can assist would be appreciated, I will also check my distributor cap.

Regards
GTKE21

 

[Alex Crow]

could be many, many things.

there is a switch on the throttle body that goes to a three pin plug on the manifold. this is for full and closed throttle position. your ecu needs to see the closed throttle position from this switch to maintain idle.

there is a potentiometer on the metering flap which is prone to failure on higher mileage cars, particularly the 6 cylinder 103 engines for some reason. if this is playing up it can cause your problems.

there is a grey microswitch on the throttle linkage, this can be u/s or out of adjustment.

the idle control valve itself can stick with carbon build up, easy to clean out with carb cleaner.

the ovp relay can fail intermittently or have poor corroded contacts in the plug.

the fuel pump relay can fail intermittently, but not only at idle so not really a suspect.

even the inhibitor switch can cause this.

there's a starter for ten, and that is assuming all the obvious stuff is ok like ht system etc. good luck.

 

[GTKE21]

Hi Alexander,

Thanks for the response I will check these out and provide feedback for the forum. Nothing worse than an intermittent fault let me tell you.

Regards,
Graeme

 

[television]

On cars that have an idle control,, the effect of the car not switching over to it is normally a very high fail safe idle speed