PSE PUMP HEADACHE !

wesleypearce

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Ok so im getting somewhere with my PSE pump headache.

If you have read my previous threads you will know my problems,

I have recently bought a rebuilt S class PSE pump to fit my 2003 sl350, i have then got my friend an ex mercedes tech to code the pump to the car this now all is fine however the boot still doesnt work, i believe the piping is different on a sl pump to an s class pump so i think i need to mix and match the hoses to fit the s class pump.

Am i opening the door to a massive world of trouble ? any advice would be great.

does anyone have a diagram for both pumps as to what each nozzle does ?
 

Dash1

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Ok so im getting somewhere with my PSE pump headache.

If you have read my previous threads you will know my problems,

I have recently bought a rebuilt S class PSE pump to fit my 2003 sl350, i have then got my friend an ex mercedes tech to code the pump to the car this now all is fine however the boot still doesnt work, i believe the piping is different on a sl pump to an s class pump so i think i need to mix and match the hoses to fit the s class pump.

Am i opening the door to a massive world of trouble ? any advice would be great.

does anyone have a diagram for both pumps as to what each nozzle does ?


Hi wesleypearce,

Your post indicates that you may have a possible issue with the boot closure and that it appears to be inoperative. When you view the PSE pump from the front, the two left hand connections (FoL and FoR) on the lower section of the grey manifold are not used at all on the SL - (R230) and CL - (W215) models, they are only used on the 4 door saloon versions, such as the “S” class - (W220) models for the rear door locks.

However, yours will appear to be exactly the same as my own CL (W215) and the following will help you to identify the destinations from the pump manifold – onwards. I’ve attached a photo below of my own PSE pump for easy identification purposes.

Please Note: the vacuum connections and their respective destinations from the grey pump manifold – onwards, also note that “HECK” translated from German to English represents the word - Stern - Rear.

KAF - Rear Head Restraints - White Line with Grey Connector.
HECK - Boot Lid - Yellow Line with Grey Connector. This is the one that you want to check.
TD - Fuel Flap - Yellow Line with Grey Connector.
MKL - N/S and O/S Seats - Grey Line with Grey Connector.
FT - O/S Front Door - Yellow line with grey connector.
BFT - N/S Front Door - Yellow line with grey connector.
FoL - N/S Rear Door - None connected on my CL - 4 door versions only.
FoR - O/S Rear Door - None connected on my CL - 4 door versions only.
SK - N/S and O/S Boot Security Locks - optionally fitted security equipment - fitted on my CL

These locations and identifications will always come in very handy if you ever need to carry out any “vacuum/pressure” leak-off tests later. Sometimes, a very simple vacuum/pressure leak can in fact cause the pump to run on much longer than necessary, and in the process, draw excess current which in turn will give rise to the fuse blowing, rendering all the PSE system inoperative – the car will not “globally” lock although the alarm system is armed. The “normal” current consumption (measured in series in place of fuse 62 with a good quality ammeter) from these pumps should not exceed 15 amps and fall within in the range of between 10amps - 14amps, and the system should be protected with a 20-amp fuse - (yellow) - fuse number 62 is in the rear fuse box under the right hand side seat.

Hope the info is of some help.

Best Regards,

Dash1
 

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wesleypearce

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Hi dash1

Thank you very much for that detailed post, I'm sure that will help me alot, I'm going to attempt the scramble later on So I shall let you know how I get on :)

One thing I'm confused about is how I will know which pipe goes to which area ??
 

television

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You must remember that the boot soft closing is not the same as the S class, it takes a lot of pressure to control the boot. It needs checking to see if there is suction to the boot lock, these locks can leak, there are about 5 valves in the locks
 

David Arnott

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Hello wesleypearce,
Perhaps I can be of some assistance here.
It is possible to enable the boot locking on SL with a S class PSE unit, however …
The problem with using the S class unit is that you will not be able to operate the roof. You will have a SL that is as convertible as a S class !
Perhaps you have been incorrectly advised as to the suitability of the 220 / 215 PSE unit for the SL. Maybe you have to hit somebody on the head with a rubber hammer. http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif

To make the boot locking work you need to change the vacuum pipe that is connected to “KAF” to the “HECK” position. Then you have to change the wiring of the X8/4 connector (located just to the rear of the PSE). You need to connect the Pin4 / plug2 (smaller) on the PSE to the brown/blue (Pin11) wire on the X8/4 connector.
I can provide diagrams and or further clarification of this, my phone no. is Aberdeen 208650

The reason the roof will not work , is that the Boot Separator switch is wired into the PSE unit but this circuit is not implemented on the S class PSE (no convertible roof on a S class!), when you attempt to open the roof “Close Boot Separator” will appear in the instrument display even though it is closed. The roof will therefore not open.

To help you a bit more, the electric motor / pump assembly inside the PSE is the same on the S and SL class, so if the electronic part (PCB & valves) of the old SL PSE is working, you use the pump from the S class unit in your SL PSE , it is only two wires to solder, easy job .

I hope this will be of some assistance.

Regards
David
 
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wesleypearce

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David,

Thank you very much for your reply it sounds like it would be much easier for me to just buy a SL pump as my capabilities of auto electrics are somewhat limited !

The old PSE pump was soaking wet so I don't think I will be able to salvage the CB from it, fingers crossed I can find one :)
 

television

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Have you replaced that Diode
 

television

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When you tested the motor, did you unsolder it
 
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wesleypearce

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Television

No i didnt know where to look for a diode, and no i didnt un solder the motor, would that have made a difference ?
 

television

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Yes it would as you could have applied a reverse voltage, I do have a diode
 

Gary Green

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Wesley
I share your pain !!!
The PSE on my SL 500 has also given up, I am getting mine replaced by an indie at a price significantly less than MB want.
You are getting the best advice from Television, David and Dash (Television and David have also given me great tips) but if all the aggro you are now encountering gets too much I have the name of a really good guy who is selling a SL PSE pump, I would have bought one from him but Andy @ PCD is sorting me out, however if you are unable to get your pump working and you have to bite the bullet and get another one I think he is charging £380 for the same. Let me know.
Just to make you feel better I had to replace my ABC Pump six weeks ago at a cost of 2.5k, my SBC pump also now needs replacing as well as the PSE, if I had to pay full MB prices I would have spent over 6k in six weeks !!
My car is a 2004 model with 52k miles, never driven hard and looked after probably better than my kids, MB quality control on these early models was a joke, the car is probably not worth more than £10k.
Unfortunately I love the car just feel like its a money pit, even the greatest love affairs tarnish however when one party to the same bleeds the other dry !!
Anyway enough feeling sorry for myself, hope you can sort your pump, if you need the number of the guy who has one let me know.
Gary
 
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wesleypearce

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Television- What do you think i should do?

Gary- Thanks for your message ! jeeez that does sound like some real grief and i can sympathise with you, im feeling good that i can sort this out without spending fortunes :)
 

Gary Green

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No problem, fingers crossed you can sort yours.
In any event make sure you follow Television's thread on treating the rubber seals around the car to stop the water leaks into the boot, as in many cases water ingress is the reason why the PSE Pumps fail.
There are loads of threads and tips on how to take precautionary measures to keep the pump dry and thus going as long as possible, some real thinking out of the box but effective none the less.
Gary
 

Bobg

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350sl boot closure isues

I am new to the forum and looking for some help.Bought a 2003 350SL last month and totally over the moon with it - I do have a problem that the soft close boot is not working. I understand that an issue with the boot lid closure on the 2003 sl is common and have read on the net that usually it can be sorted by epoxying 'something' My issue again, something that I am told is common - the boot reports that it is open and therefore for one thing the top wont go down - The dealer said he removed/replaced the fuse and it worked a couple of times but then stopped and that the pump was 'going' and quoted about £1000 to replace pump and I just cant believe it. Can someone please tell me another way? be it the 'glue' solution or if I need to replace the pump a part number so I can source a rebuilt one. I have a mate that is a very good motor head and so all i need is the instructions and job done. help pls!
 

television

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Is your locking still working
 

Gary Green

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Hi Bob
Welcome to the wonderful and very expensive world of SL ownership !!
Please heed the advice of Television, he knows what he is talking about, the man is a legend but if the end result is that you need a PSE pump I can give you the name and details of a guy who sells re-conditioned or repaired pumps.
If your central locking is working then may be a boot lock issue rather than PSE but Television will know.
Just had my PSE replaced and other work on my 2004 SL 500 by a brilliant Indie called Andy at PCD Ltd, fraction of MB price and a lot better service. He is based in Watford but will travel.
Let me know if you need any contact numbers.
Good Luck and start saving up for your ABC and SBC pumps.
Regards
Gary
 

jaybtee

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Boot Operator

Posts I have read are a few months old now, but as I have just purchased a 2003 cl500, I am finding a few issues. The main one at the moment is the boot not unlocking. I have removed the actuator assembly and have dismantled it and tested all the parts. They all seem to be working. I have blanked off all the ball bearing sealed outlets on this mechanism and still not working. I have replaced the unit with one I bought on ebay.com from a s-class. It is the same unit except for the threaded rod which attaches to the boot lock assembly. Simple job to change with my original. Is the pump referred to a pressure supply or is it a vacuum? This must have been a recent problem for the last owner as the boot lock was crapped up and needed wd treatment. Any advice would be welcome. I am saving my ABC for later!
 

television

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I think the vacuum actuator for the boot in in the rear rail that houses the lock keep. I can check later.

The vacuum pump sucks and blows, when a diaphragm fails it will often work in one direction but not the other, if the diaphragm is at fault you will hear the pump running for too long. In a good system the car will lock and the pump turns off within about 4 seconds, if it runs for much long it shows there is a leak in a pipe or diaphragm
 

jaybtee

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Boot lock

Thanks for that. Since I posted, I have pulled the puck apart and sealed the rim with vaseline. The actuator rod seems to be very critical as to position as I have the system operating of sorts. The remote will unlock the boot in some positions of the actuator rod and not in others. However, the boot will open when I lock the car. Sometimes the boot will open with its own button release when the whole car should be locked. There seems to be some connections on the manual lock area so maybe this can be investigated. I have a working copy of the official Mercedes WIS and EPC, but so far I have not been able to isolate the instructions for removing and installing the lock. I don't know if this will trigger any thoughts. I will persevere. Thanks for the reply.
 

television

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I am guessing here that on the end of that rod that you are moving there is a micro-switch, its shown in the diagrams and the Y65/3 called the remote boot lid opening valve
 


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