Quick salution to Start the car wuithout removing FPR ?

DREAMER NO2

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Guys and dolls. I have a question to ask . I need to start the engine after the battery is fitted back in place after storage .For some reason this FPR refuses to be removed .I had trouble last year gertting FPR to budge . And i need to spin the engine over so that the oil can circulate around vital parts before it starts up . Is there something else i can do to stop it pumping in fuel and starting up?
 

brandwooddixon

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What car is this for?
Could you just disconnect the crank position sensor or remove the fuse for the fuel pump?
 
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DREAMER NO2

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Car is W124 M103 with no fuse only the FPR .I did think about the CPS but this wont stop fuel from going in to the engine .
 
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DREAMER NO2

DREAMER NO2

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All ok,,i just switched the engine on and off a few times untill i could see the oil presure building up,. Took it for a run will know more next time i go out in it . Anything can happen over the winter months as you may know.
 

mattkh

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All ok,,i just switched the engine on and off a few times untill i could see the oil presure building up,. Took it for a run will know more next time i go out in it . Anything can happen over the winter months as you may know.
Just saw this post today.
In this situation, you stop the engine from firing up by removing the ignition. So you disconnect the HT lead.
 
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DREAMER NO2

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Not a good idea .Because fuel will still get pumped in to the fuel distributor . That was what i wanted to avoid -fuel in the engine .Best way is to remove fule pump relay if possible .Only mine is stuck solid in the frame .The relays have lugs on the sides that slot inside a a oblong holes its this that holds the relay secure . Job done now thanks .
 

Botus

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slow rpm puts massive wear on things especially the cam, its probably better to start it and within 15 seconds get to 2000 rpm than to crank for 2 mins pretending to build up oil pressure
 

Botus

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after all ethanol in the petrol will wreck soon enough....
 
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Brutus another nail in the coffin for so many old cars . But you can get an additive to put in the fuel tank Lucas do one now.
 

Botus

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yes, you can reduce its effects, but its still there. Apparently the right thing is to process the fuel and remove the ethanol before it goes in and destroys the car.....

There are various petrol additives available to provide protection from the corrosive effects of ethanol on metals, but they have no impact on the susceptibility of rubber parts and plastic or fibreglass fuel tanks, and may not help with poor running in those vehicles susceptible to carburettor icing or vapour-locking.

In contrast, the Ethanil® kit removes ethanol from petrol completely, thereby ensuring that all problems caused by ethanol are eliminated too.

 
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Ethanol wont hurt metal its eats away at all of the rubber items in the injection system including seals in fuel pumps rubber lines anything made of rubber that the fuel is in contact with or passes through ./
 

Botus

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it does rot the metal

Typical upgrades include modifications to: fuel tanks, fuel tank electrical wiring, fuel pumps, fuel filters, fuel lines, filler tubes, fuel level sensors, fuel injectors, seals, fuel rails, fuel pressure regulators, valve seats and inlet valves

ethanol fuels contain soluble and insoluble contaminants. Halide ions, which are soluble contaminants, such as chloride ions, have a large effect on the corrosivity of alcohol fuels. Halide ions increase corrosion in two ways: they chemically attack passivating oxide films on several metals causing pitting corrosion, and they increase the conductivity of the fuel. Increased electrical conductivity promotes electrical, galvanic and ordinary corrosion in the fuel system. Soluble contaminants such as aluminum hydroxide, itself a product of corrosion by halide ions, clogs the fuel system over time.

 


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