R107 calipers required

[8~)]

Hello,
Occassional reader, first time poster...

I need front brake calipers for a '79 280SLC and not having much luck in locating. Searched this forum already and tried the Rochdale crew mentioned in the thread: '71 280S 108~ Need NeW Calipers???

No luck. ECP have no stock, GSF aren't stocking, according to their site... I haven't dared ask an MB dealer yet.

Other alternative is to rebuild... but I've tried both hydraulic pressure (calipers on car, push brake) and air with calipers off the car. On both calipers I've got one piston free but not the other. Car was sitting for years prior to me getting it.

Any pointers, please!

8~)

 

[MIW615]

Hello,
Occassional reader, first time poster...

I need front brake calipers for a '79 280SLC and not having much luck in locating. Searched this forum already and tried the Rochdale crew mentioned in the thread: '71 280S 108~ Need NeW Calipers???

No luck. ECP have no stock, GSF aren't stocking, according to their site... I haven't dared ask an MB dealer yet.

Other alternative is to rebuild... but I've tried both hydraulic pressure (calipers on car, push brake) and air with calipers off the car. On both calipers I've got one piston free but not the other. Car was sitting for years prior to me getting it.

Any pointers, please!

8~)

Try giving these guys a call...........

http://www.mercsite.com/ads/39.0463b/

 

[Myros]

try Eurocarparts as well, if no joy

and if you are stuck with the dealers, try Inchape at Oxford. Usually cheaper than your local, even with delivery. There is also SLS in Germany.
http://www.sls-hh-catalogue.de/bin/dbframes.phtml?mid=IN07

 

[MIW615]

And here....................

http://mercedes.partsgateway.co.uk/mercedes-280-slc-parts.html

 

[brandwooddixon]

If you still have no joy finding a new caliper.

Have you tried physically removing the stuck piston? It's probably rusted in due to the car sitting for a long period.

If you can remove it then it may be possible to repair it, judicious use of wet and dry on the piston cylinder, using a caliper repair kit to replace the seals and finally a little silicon grease around the edge of the piston once refitted.

Also after a quick hunt what about these people? http://www.brakesint.com/ Never used them myself.

 

[8~)]

Thanks - have already followed up with some of the above links.

I've repaired several calipers in the past but these two just won't free up. Can't get the pistons out to clean them up.

 

[MIW615]

Thanks - have already followed up with some of the above links.

I've repaired several calipers in the past but these two just won't free up. Can't get the pistons out to clean them up.

Have you tried blowing compressed air into the caliper - just be careful, because if they "pop" they release quickly, best to put a block of wood between the pistons and release them slowly

 

[8~)]

Have you tried blowing compressed air into the caliper - just be careful, because if they "pop" they release quickly, best to put a block of wood between the pistons and release them slowly

I have. One pops out, the other is stuck tight. I wired the free piston in place and it broke the wire... using stronger wire the piston is pushed out just slightly and air seems to make its way out between the bore and free piston. It's well stuck. I'd done several caliper repairs in the past but these ones are tight - car was sitting for about 6 years before I got it. I suspect even if I did get the pistons out they'd be too pitted to reuse.

 

[MIW615]

I have. One pops out, the other is stuck tight. I wired the free piston in place and it broke the wire... using stronger wire the piston is pushed out just slightly and air seems to make its way out between the bore and free piston. It's well stuck. I'd done several caliper repairs in the past but these ones are tight - car was sitting for about 6 years before I got it. I suspect even if I did get the pistons out they'd be too pitted to reuse.

Sounds like grief then, although if you eventually do get the last piston out and the bore is rusted you can always have the bore machined and a stainless steel insert fitted and have a new piston made (assuming you can't find new replacements)

 

[kth286]

8~)

What is a reasonable price to pay for a new unit ????????????

Are your units Teves, Girling or Bendix ??????????

 

[8~)]

What's reasonable to pay - I'd say around 100 Sterling to my door. Am I tight?

Dealer is quoting 250 Euro + Vat = 175ish Sterling. Since looking a couple of days ago I see ECP now have them in stock for 112 +VAT + Shipping + surcharge of 27 quid. ECPs are remanufactured though. They have a 66 quid caliper also but out of stock!

Calipers on my car are ATE.

 

[kth286]

8~)

I have just looked and the Mercedes listed price for a new rear Teves (ATE) caliper for a 280 SLC is £126+Vat.

By getting a discount of say 10 to 15 % (and the consequent reduction in Vat) I would say not a bad price.

You need to go in to main Mercedes dealer with your VIN and talk to parts dept.

They will get them in a few days as they are available on the system.

AS a previous poster mentioned speak to Mervyn Wright at Mercedes Poole who takes a special interest in classic cars parts, and will normally post to you. 01202 666330

 

[8~)]

Not bad price at all from the dealer, David.

I'm located in Ireland and reckon the prices of car parts and tools of all kinds are inflated. I already priced the caliper from my local main dealer at Euro 250 + VAT. £126 = Euro 188.

Also the lads at Brakes International mailed me back to state they can supply the caliper for about £100 delivered.

All I need to decide now is whether to go the cheaper remanufactured option or new OE.

Thanks all!

 

[kth286]

8~)

What part number did the Irish dealer give you. ????????????

Why are they quoting so much ???????????????

 

[8~)]

Didn't give me a part number - I gave the VIN over the phone and the parts guy told me the cost.

Why so much? Sad to say that the cost of cars is roughty 1/3 more than the UK due to taxation (called VRT, well documented). I think as a knock on effect the cost of parts from dealers (of all marques) is inflated. Many motor factors here don't bother with slow selling stock so none I called had a caliper for me. Dealers don't bother with slow stock either - and the caliper will be about 10 days if I order it.

I've also noted that tools here are more expensive than elsewhere with no real reason (i.e. they're not too heavily overtaxed when compared to tax in the UK for example). I'm currently looking for a MIG welder... can't get a DIY one for reasonable cash.

The last 10 years or so has bought more competition and some lower prices, but we're still expensive, I think rated the second most expensive country in Europe now.

I can understand we're a small population so there's no point having too many lines of slow selling stock and that smaller orders of stock costs more than bulk buying... but aside from that I also reckon there's some greed involved. If I can order a single part from a different country and get it delivered to my door for less than buying from a supplier down the road from me, it raises questions.

As it happens earlier I ordered the caliper, and some rebuild kits for other calipers I have, from Brakes International.

 

[Myros]

I used to work with the MD of Brakes International

and no, it doesn't get me any discount. I do know them to be a pretty straight and decent firm, and their prices aren't bad either. They are alot bigger now than when he started them up 12 years ago.

 

[8~)]

and no, it doesn't get me any discount. I do know them to be a pretty straight and decent firm, and their prices aren't bad either. They are alot bigger now than when he started them up 12 years ago.

Package should arrive on Monday. I'll let you know on Tuesday...

 

[8~)]

Package arrived yesterday evening.
Caliper obviously made from two different halves - one half is clean, one very pitted though it's all sprayed over; new pistons, seals, bleed screw, etc.

I fitted it last night. It fitted okay but there's no lug for the wear indicator to screw in so that's now tied back out of use. Haven't used it yet - my beautiful assistant wasn't available to pump the brake pedal so still need bleeding.

Cost was around £80 UKP + VAT including surcharge (27 refundable on receipt of my old caliper). Should I have paid £126 UKP for a new one?

Does it matter so long as it pulls up cleanly - I've a new caliper on the driver side, the remanufactured one on the passenger side. See how it drives once I get the brakes bled and the front end back together (rust repair).

 

[kth286]

8~)

As classic cars get older and "more classic" originality becomes ever more important to purchasers and to the club and concours fraternity.

I personally am all for it.

The £40 or so you saved on the caliper will be long forgotten in years to come, and the pride of owning an original car with all original parts (apart from the increased investment valve) would be greater.

As it is you have a non original caliper which is obviously not correct if you have to leave the pads wear indicator off.

Keep on like this and you will end up with a "cobbled" car which you will not be be able to sell to a true knowledgeable enthusiast. So, your market will be limited to the cheap end purchasers, and therfore you will be limiting your investment potential.

You should see the proper caliper as an investment, not an expense.

 

[8~)]

In general I agree. Normally I do things reasonably "right" and I prefer to use OEM parts. I know that when I view a car I look for originality. I am questioning myself here! I think I went cheap as a reaction to the dealer here being prepared to shaft me... makes no sense does it!